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The starter has bushings on both ends nothing else supports the armature.

I am going to buy one from amazon they are around 50.00 thanks for all the sugestions.

I have to glue a magnet on the case.

I already drilled 4 holes in the end cap that has the brush holders on it thanks.

I saw the video using u shaped pieces but there is no holes to put them in to hold the brushes in.

There is no holes in the brush plate

There is no holes to put a wire in to hold the brushes back

I am replacing armature on a kohler starter 2009811-s and I am having trouble holding the 4 brushes in so I can put the armature in the end piece. How do they do that thanks.

I did not mow with that one I only repairred it. I put a different muffler on it and it is a little quieter and the customer said it was better.

thank you

I was wondering what to torque the replacement rood too thanks.

I finally got it. I used a short socket on a small swivel extension thanks.

I am replacing connecting rod on a Kohler 21 horse courage engine but can't get socket on inner rod bolt. The counter weight balancer is not allowing me to get a socket and wrench on the bolt. The engine is model sv600 spec sv600-0009 serial 371311993

your right The replacement one I bought was a nikki and it runs better.

I have a briggs 19 horse on a yard machine rider and the engine is quite loud. I have a round muffler which bolts to a short pipe which is bolted to the head. The muffler and pipe are good but as I mensioned it sounds loud when it runs. The muffler comes out of the engine on the right side and...

I had a other mechanic look at the carb and it was clean and the gaskets were good. I put it on the engine and it still surges so I am going to put a worburo carbutor on it.

It is a briggs engine model 287707 type 7224-01

I noticed that when I close the choke it runs better and at a higher speed like must be starving for fuel.

I am working on a Cub mower which has a Micki carb 698620 and I took it apart and cleaned iit but it still serges. If you hold the throttle with your finger it runs better. I have another enging with that same carburetor on it which does the same. They are a bad design carburetor that briggs used.

It is the starter with 2 studs on top. I finally got it you have to position the wire which also fits in the same slot. What a pain.

I am putting a new starter in a Kohler sv590 and the new starter has a tab that sticks up near the studs and the starter won't seat right because the tab hits the piece that the studs are supposed to go through. The old starter did not have that piece.

That is what I did but it was going in too hard so a machine shop friend looked at it and he said the screw that was in the new spring I got is too big diameter for the hole so he let me borrow a 6.1 metric tap and it worked fine.

I figured that but the screw was going in too hard and I was afraid of braking it off.

I found out there is a small piece that slides off which has a opening to get to the adjustments. On the replacement cylinder I bought the hole that the vibration spring screw goes in is not tapped. It is a 7.100 metric tap sice. Is that a common size or is it special size.

I got it running but how can I get to the adjustment screws after I put the air cleaner assembly in there is no hole to get to the mixture screws.

I think it will work now sinced I cleaned the fuel pump section again

I have a husqvarna k750 which has new cylinder, piston and rings and new crank seals. It will run if you squirt fuel in the sparkplug hole but it does not seem to suck the fuel up from the tank. The fuel filter is new and fuel is getting to the carb when I take the line of f fuel runs out of the...

Thanks I tightened the float bowl and it starts better.

I am working on a mtd snowblower with tecumsah 10 horse on it model lh358sa and when I prime the engine with starter fluid it keeps running fine. I shut the engine off and try to start it a few hours later it does not start on choke or by pressing the primer. I tried another carburetor on the...

I finally figured it out but I have to find the size of the bottom belt that goes from the 2 blade pulley to the center drive pulley.

I am trying to put a mower deck on a gravely 1138g and the diagram I got does not show how the 2 arms go or how the lifting carriage goes on the deck or the mower. Where can I get a picture of the entire assembly thanks.

I am working on a scag z mower and when it is running I get a rattling sound but it is not from the engine. The drive belt shows sign of wear on the wide part of the belt. How do you access the top drive belt pulleys, there is no room underneath?

I put grease in the seal to hold the spring and I cut a piece of a plastic container and put it inside the seal and it worked perfectly thanks for the great ideas.

I am working on a twin cylinder briggs 23 horse engine. I am trying to replace the crank seal on the power take off side of the crank. I am having a hard time getting the seal on the step part of the crank where it gets wider. Once I get it past that part I can tap the seal on with a plastic...

I am working on a Bradley 48 inch walk behind hydro mower and there is no room to get behind the engine bottom pulley in order to get the mower belt off the pulley. The belt guide and idler is not acdcessiable. Is there something I am missing?

I am working on a briggs model 21t202 and am replacing the connecting rod and I would like to know which way does it go on the piston. I know the arrow on the piston goes toward the flywheel.

I did something similar to that, I t I did something similar to that I tapped the pto side of the crankshaft with a mallet. It still turned hard so the extra gaskets came in today so I will try adding the thinner one tomorro.

Yes I always check that thanks.

Thank you I will try that.

I am working on a briggs 286707 engine and I replaced the sump gasket with a 15 thousands gasket. After I tighten the sump bolts the engine turns hard. If I loosen the bolts it turns easier. There is no shim on the crank shaft about the gear so not sure what I have no end play with the crank shaft.

The problem was the new carburetor was bad. I bought another new carburetor from ebay

It is a hard plug black plastic I believe.

The plug was not tampered with before I got the machine. I put a little pressure on the tool when I was turning it but the tool does not want to start in to the plug

I tried a left handed tool from echo but it does not screw in to the plug to remove it. I also try to drill the plug gently but it screws up the slot in the adjusting screw. How do other people remove those plugs. thanks.

I thought so but can not tell where it hooks up on the air cleaner. There is a small line on the other side that comes from the air cleaner to the engine can't tell where it goes it goes under the covers maybe a fuel vent.

I noticed to the left of where the carburetor bolts on there is a round pipe that comes from the engine. What is supposed to go on it thanks.

Thank you the engine is a 4 stroke and everything is clean and I replaced the fuel line to the filter and new filter.

We did not see any slot or d slot in the center of the throttle shaft. We even took out a small rubber plug and there was nothing there.

We finally found the model number cmxgvamkc29c

I have a small tiller which has a small wead trimmer engine on it and I replaced fuel filter line and carburetor and when I start it up it idles fine and will accelerate slightly but when I put it on full throttle it bogs down and stalls. When I put on the choke slightly it will run full speed...