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Finally! Appears the problem was the electronic module. Replaced it with OEM unit and it fires right up. I suspect the defective voltage regulator fried the electronic module and caused the burnt wires at the ignition switch. So, chasing down all the symptoms and possible causes led to fixing a...

Yes, sorry 6 mil (0.006"). After checking everything and going through the whole electrical system I'm left with just the electronic module. Anyone know how to test this? Wonder if the bad voltage regulator damaged the electronic module, which apparently may play a part in the fuel mixture. I'm...

I drained the tank earlier in the diagnostic process. Drained about 5gal out then refilled with new gas. And has a new fuel filter. I'll drain a significant amount again after changing the lines. Currently, it'll crank and turn over briefly on gas. It'll turn over every time on starter fluid. As...

Put the old carb back on and still won't run. Took a closer look at the ignition module and found several wires melted. Also noticed the starter is not cranking right away anymore unless I really twist the key. Wondering if the defective voltage regulator caused some damage to the switch. I cut...

I'll put the original carb back on tomorrow.

So, switched out the voltage regulator and now I'm getting a consistent 12-13V on the battery with engine off or on. No longer seeing the drop when the engine is running. Next, confirmed the 12V at the fuel pump, and now the flow does not decrease when the engine is cranking. So the new voltage...

I did check and clean the emulsion tube on the old carburetor. I dismantled the entire thing and cleaned every single component. None of them had any visible residue at all. I've been using ethanol-free gas with Seafoam for the last 4 years and it has kept the carbs on all my small engines...

Looks like the voltage regulator is part number 21066-2070.

I checked the wires to the fuel pump the wiring harness appears to be in decent shape. Haven't located the ground wire, but I'm not seeing any loose or damaged wires anywhere. Low voltage when the engine is running would definitely match with the symptom of seeing the fuel pump flow drop to a...

New update: confirmed spark plugs are working by taking them out and watching for spark on both plugs. Both are firing just fine. Next confirmed 12V being delivered to the fuel pump. After a suggestion from my father-in-law, I checked the voltage across the battery and found it at 13.5v before...

I used an inline spark plug tester to confirm the coils were working and the plugs are new. The symptoms have continually pointed to a fuel issue which is why I removed and cleaned the old carb twice (it was immaculate to begin with) and then replaced with a new aftermarket carb and tested the...

Update: I found that one spark plug wire was not firing. Replaced both coils and confirmed both plugs are sparking. Still no change. Engine turns over immediately under full choke and can run for about 10-20 seconds before dying. Next, took another look at the fuel pump. Not sure if this is...

With compression tests both being similar around 105-110psi, I'm thinking the valves are not the issue.

Thanks for the fast replies. The engine is a twin cylinder Kawasaki FD750. The Scag Turf tiger model STT61A-27KA, SN 7740962. Can't find the number on the engine itself. Fuel flow to the carburetor appears strong. I disconnected the fuel line at the carb to confirm the fuel pump was pumping...

My old Turf Tiger with Kawasaki FD750 27hp has suddenly started having a problem starting. It starts under full choke with throttle turned up to about 30-40%. I immediately start decreasing the choke and it dies. Start it again and again and it runs for a few seconds and then dies. Eventually I...