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This service manual will help answer your questions. https://www.toro.com/getpub/22447

Before replacing this old mule I would stick a little time and money into cleaning and rebuilding the carb. Replace the float needle and seat, Tecumseh part number 631021B. I’ve attached the procedure I’ve recommended many times on this forum. Needle and seat replacement. Remove the carb...

Apologies accepted, but for others who post please make sure you double check any numbers for accuracy. It took an hour of searching to figure out the Simplicity numbers with bad numbers on a 50 year old unit. I worked on Simplicity units back in the 80’s and luckily I found some old materials...

I don’t know where to start, as the model numbers you posted don’t make a lot of sense. 1. The 990670 number comes back to a mower deck. 2. For anyone else looking at this thread the tractor model number Is 990653. 3. I’ve come up with a snowblower number of 990663. 4. It uses a belt...

That’s a new one on me, it’s just a pdf file. Everything I have is in that format. Try searching for “Briggs pulsa jet tank mounted carbs” or “Briggs L-head repair manual” and you should find material to help you out.

Have you taken any time to read the section on carbs in the manual I posted??? I’ll bet not. If you find a picture of the mounting gasket, it should answer your question. To help you out it is in section 3, starting around page 29.

Another thing, when I get a 30 year old with this style carb/tank setup, I many times find the tank warpped. Tank most times is NLA so I seal around the carb base with a good auto body sealer.

I’m guessing it is time to replace the pump diaphragm. Also, I would replace the gasket between the carb and tank, making sure it is making a good seal. This manual should help you out. http://www.tuks.nl/WFCProject/img/Engine_Carburator/81644210-Briggs-Stratton-Service-Manual-L-Head.pdf

Please provide us with the model and serial numbers from both the tractor and blower so we have a better idea of what you are dealing with. You should find an ID tag on both units.

Not everyone,. If you really knew what you’re doing you would know that the experienced techs on this forum need all engine numbers so we don’t have to guess. DIY guys like you want exact answers with as little information as possible. Bad mouthing techs like Star isn’t going to get you...

Depending on the engine model it not have one, but simply use a diode rectified system. Use this manual to identify which system you have. If you can’t, post back with the engine model, type and code numbers for some more help...

Post your units model and serial numbers. With them we can tell you which switch you need. Many switches look the same, but are very different. If you look at the sides of your switches terminals you will see letters identifying what each terminal is used for. Must replace with like switch...

Check to see if it is Lazer etched into the side of the block.

Besides a plugged fixed jet, I’ve found that over time the float needle tip expands, resulting in a drop in fuel level in the float bowl. Found the replacing the float needle and adjusting float level fixes this problem. Part number 631021B. EDIT: I should clarify added that I set my float...

Here is the wiring diagram you will need. https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/66099rzi84-000247/craftsman-917250811-front-engine-lawn-tractor-parts Yes a switch can easily be tested, if you are experienced in electrical troubleshooting and understand how the switch works.

Looks like a Simplicity tractor. Simplicity started building NFL and NCAA branded tractors about 1996. If I remember right, I think they were built on the Regent chassis.

I wouldn’t go after the ignition switch before doing some electrical troubleshooting. Making any component assumptions could lead to added expense when not needed. Problem could be anywhere in the wiring and components between the switch and the solenoid. I agree it could be the switch, but...

A multimeter will be your best friend when troubleshooting this problem. If your daughter can get you the model number from under the seat we might be able to find you a wiring diagram to make it easier to troubleshoot.

I think that’s what I posted??

Tape measure would have told us deck size!!!

I’m guessing Husqvarna, sure looks like this one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/127360612885 It would have been a lot easier if the OP would have given us the blade size and blade part number. This would have eliminated a lot of guessing on everyone’s part. Must be a new member and new to the DIY...

This manual may help you out. http://www.tuks.nl/WFCProject/img/Engine_Carburator/81644210-Briggs-Stratton-Service-Manual-L-Head.pdf

Are you talking about the cogged timing pulley? This pulley should be tight to the shaft and there is no bearing, which I think you are wondering about. Shaft, pulley, washer and nut all turn as one assembly, when installed correctly.

No, the convex goes toward the pulley, so pres is applied to the pulley not the nut.

If it has not run for awhile, I would be checking the crankcase seals. They may no longer be sealing the crankcase, allowing air to enter causing a lean mixture.

Never seen or heard of it. But I’ve never watch King of Queens.

For those who don’t know, there are 2 types of 4 sided screwdrivers. One is called a Reed and there other is called a Phillips. Difference is that the Reed style comes to a point and the Phillips has a flat end. Most people don’t know this ( even techs) and don’t use the correct one for the job.

Three things that have bailed me out when I run into this problem with Phillips screws. 1. Make sure you have the right size driver. Most often people use a driver which is too small. 2. I dip my driver into some very fine lapping compound, which gives improved gripping power. 3. Soaking...

As a retired teacher do you think i retype this every time I need to use it. There are better ways to use my time.

Before throwing parts at your unit, a good tech is going to follow his troubleshooting procedure to pinpoint the problem. Here is the procedure I use. Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things. 1. How well you understand basic electricity. 2. What tools...

In your first picture, between the gas cap and the carb, straight in you will see a bolt head. Might have to clean all the oil and dirt off it. Believe us, we’ve all removed it a hundred times.

This manual might also help you out, especially when you’re reassembling the carb to the tank. http://www.tuks.nl/WFCProject/img/Engine_Carburator/81644210-Briggs-Stratton-Service-Manual-L-Head.pdf

First the model number you posted is not the same as the model number on the tag in picture #4. What gives? Second, as IL states you need to remove the tank, before you can remove the carb. Third, when you remove the carb I would highly recommend that you replace the pump diaphragm. Fourth...

That model mower was manufactured for 4 years and depending on which year you have it may be a Briggs or Kohler engine. Please provide us with all engine numbers so we know what you are working on.

Sorry I’m too stupid to realize you want to permanently attach a hose, with a 90 degree bend to a Tillotson carb. I have never seen a hose permanently attached to these carbs, so I assumed that you were talking about the breather hose mounted on the breather cover and sometimes goes to the...

You have been around this forum long enough to know that we need more information than you have supplied. Model and spec number of the Tecumseh engine? Where is this hose attached, carb or valve breather plate? Time to step it up.

In today’s market you get what you pay for. Recommending anything less that $3500 is a crap shoot, as unless you have a flat and smooth lawn you are talking about a unit that will last maybe 10 years. That is why the experienced techs don’t like to recommend any of these brands. Quality of...

Can’t open photos unless you have google photos, which I don’t. Can you post them a different way?

Knowing how to properly use a good analog meter is better than using a cheap digital meter. Cheap analog meters aren’t worth their cost. Your engine needs a battery with a minimum of 350 CCA, anything smaller could be part of the problem. Bad connections through the safety switches in the...

Spindle assembly MTD part #917-0913, is available, just need to do a google search. Might try this site for the two pulleys. Definitely worth a phone call. https://www.partselect.com/PS9119216-MTD-756-0520-Pulley-5-0-34-Dia.htm?srsltid=AfmBOooxyw4W_TjgahcmTtEoL-7v711Q89LL1RXJlAXL6sejUoVvYO07

First thing to check are battery cable connections, both on the battery and solenoid, plus negative chassis ground. Make sure each one is clean and tight, especially the negative to chassis, which likes to come loose and get dirty. After you know they are all good, as stated, check battery...

Seeing that you don’t supply us with a model number, I suspect you have a model D engine. I agree,probably a fuel issue. Here is a manual which may help you out. https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/acrobat/manuals/lball.html

Found this on the internet which is always 100% accurate. Key Milestones in Electric Lawn Mower Development 1920s-1930s: The first electric mowers began appearing on the market, primarily as corded models. 1950s: Advancements in electric motor technology made them more powerful and efficient...

It may be in the manual, but why take a chance on voiding the warranty? We have a dealer in this area which will do anything to pass the cost of almost everything, because his labor rate is higher than what warranty will pay. I’ve done more than one rework when the customer didn’t like what he...

If it is new, DON’T TOUCH IT. This should have been adjusted properly by the dealer. You messing with it can void your warranty. Back to the dealer and have him adjust both the steering arms and creep. A dealer who doesn’t do proper setup will probably try to say you caused the problem.

Looks like this poster just deleted his original post and other reply, so there is no reason for this thread to be open. Must have had a problem with the replies, as now now of them make any sense. Lock her up Scrub.

Or it could be that the float needle is stuck open and the crankcase is now filled with gas. Pull the dipstick and check to see if it is above the full mark and smells like gas. Also, remove the spark plug, ground the plug wire, put a rag in front of the spark plug hole And turn the engine...

I suspect that the linkages are not hooked up correctly. This manual should help you double check your assemblies. https://mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kohler-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/Kohler-Service-Repair-Manual-Command-CV17-CV18-CV20-CV22-CV25-CV22-CV23-CV26.pdf

Without the engine numbers I’m assuming you have a Briggs engine with the primer bulb mounted in the air filter base. Most times the base will warp where it mounts to the carb, allowing the primer to leak. Two ways I’ve fixed this problem. Instead of one gasket between the base and carb body...

Simple test before throwing time and money at this engine. Before opening the engine hook a VOLT meer across the battery and watch the voltage when trying to start the engine. If the battery voltage drops below 10 VDC when the engine stops turning, your battery needs to be replaced.