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What always get me is they say to connect motorcycle and atv batteries to a 1.5-2 amp charger for charging and then you drop that same battery into your atv and connect it to the 20 amp charging system. The same with lawnmower batteries. And just because you connect that battery to a 20 amp...

When the engine warms up and the oil is no longer being held in the ring grooves compression could drop to the point that it stalls. Funny thing is they also claim that engine is a 8.0:1 ratio engine which puts the max compression at around 117 not the 131-150 they claim.

What always get me is they say to connect motorcycle and atv batteries to a 1.5-2 amp charger for charging and then you drop that same battery into your atv and connect it to the 20 amp charging system. The same with lawnmower batteries. And just because you connect that battery to a 20 amp...

MTD service manuals haven't been updated since 2010 which is one step ahead of Husqvarna which doesn't even have service manuals. If we had the model and serial number from under the seat we could search to see what we could find.

Honda compression check for that engine states to install compression gauge and pull starter rope with force several times and compression should be 131-150 as Startech posted. So unless you are just playing with pulling the rope your 60 psi is the issue.

2 or 10 would be fine. The issue to be away of is most of the modern chargers won't charge a completely dead battery. You have to have a certain voltage in the battery for the charger to turn on the charge function.

Wouldn't hurt to replace the spark plug. Spark plugs will do weird things. I have personally seen this exact issue with Honda engines where the spark plug hot fail, and then start working after a few minutes and then fail about 5 minutes later. And it would be nice if you could go back to...

If you would of blown the picture up you can see the hole that I described where the spring connected. Also it would of help if you could of verified the model number as requested in your original post , because the model number you listed is for a 2010 Troybilt with a 38 inch deck not the 2003...

Just had a customer purchase a new Husqvarna from Rural King Monday and got the call Monday evening that they had driven it 50 feet and it died and wouldn't restart. Water in fuel tank

You supercede a part number enough time you hit a point were the part you started with is no longer the part that you want.

some days it take 6 attempts to even get into the site. And then when you do it may go to 500 error before you are able to post a reply, or in some cases I have to leave and come back later.

People seem to think they are suppose to set the cutting height, and that may of been true on older decks that floated on the ground and like some Snapper/simplicity mowers of years past with their full length deck rollers. But anti-scalp wheels would be a better definition of their use.

The spring should connect in the small hole next to the square hole on the right side in this picture. https://www.partstree.com/parts/troy-bilt-683-04138b-0637/ Most likely the hole were the spring was connected will have a keyway wear area and be shiny.

Whatever you decide to use as a rope stop needs to be able to slide through the ring where the starter handle connects to the handle bar. Or like you said you can remove it from the handle bar and just reach down to start it and let it fully retract.

Need to confirm model number. What you posted is for a 2010 with a 38 inch deck.

When the handle bar moves up and down it pulls the starter rope out slightly which causes the starter pawls to extend enough to contact the rotating starter cup. Some push mowers have a metal band crimped to the starter rope that acts as a stop for the rope retracting into the starter...

You have the Susa starter system. What I have found over the years with that system is the push handle has enough up and down movement when being pushed that it will move the starter pawls enough to make contact with the starter cup making all kinds of racket some times.

Was the donut valve seat installed correctly and not upside down, which can cause a different float height. Also was there carb cleaner residue in the carb when the seat was installed. Carb cleaner will make the seat swell and in some cases crumble. I am not a fan of using vacuum to check a...

Leave it to Rehlko to design an engine were you can blow it up by installing the wrong length filter. That is set up like that to prevent the filter from emptying when setting because the orientation allows all the oil to drain out of the filter.

Engine should be a GCV160LA0-S3A Up to serial number 3151054 uses carb 16100-Z0L-853 MSRP for the complete carb is $17.92. After serial number 31501055 uses carb 16100-Z8B-851 MSRP of 21.17. Need to confirm the choke is closing all the way and you have good fuel. Other than that...

The plastic intake manifold issue is something that pops up at random on random engines. Most of the time it shows up as a rough run, loss of power issue. Most of the time is effects only one cylinder. The issue can result at either head when the O ring flattens out over time, and in some...

It could be a case where the plastic intake manifold is heat warping causing an air intake leak which will effect idle rpm.

Did you use OEM Troybilt/MTD/Cub Cadet belt or generic size doesn't fit correctly belts.

About 8 ounces different in fluid in most cases. And the engine manufacturer makes the decision to how the oil is checked for proper fill level.

Depends on engine manufacturer. Kohler, Kawasaki, Honda all have the dipstick set on top of the threads. Briggs has you screw the dipstick down. I have come across a few Kaws and Kohlers were the instructions are to screw the cap on.

And even in some cases the diagrams don't show the carb kit. Even in cases where one site shows the kit, but another has no mention of those kits or the page with the carb gasket and engine gasket, or head replacement kits..

Kawasaki as well as Honda don't offer complete carb repair kits like the American counterparts. All parts have to be sourced individually.

According to the service manual for your engine the compression is supposed to be a 160 psi minumum. So part of the issue may be the compression being low. And is that 7500 hours accurate. If so that engine is way past it designed lifespan, so somebody took good care of it, Most likely...

Most push mower style engines have a molded in fuel filter inside the tank. The surging may not be directly related to the fuel filter in the tank. More likely old fuel residue or other things have made the fuel passages inside the carb partially clogged. Needs a good carb cleaning. Or in...

The main way to prevent hydrolock is don't store and tip the engine with the spark plug facing down. Any other direction for prevent oil hydrolock. But there is also fuel hydrolock when the gas drains from the carb and fills the cylinder. The little bit of fuel that runs out of the carb into...

Not sure if the simplicity cylinders are rebuildable but I know of several on JD that are non repairable.

purchase can only be done by signed authorized poulan dealer, and can only be dropped shipped from Husqvarna 2 per year. According to my distributor.

The question is does the cylinder come apart. Some of those steering cylinders on mowers are a one piece welded cap style. A good shop could chuck the cylinder in a lathe and cut the weld to separate the cap, replace the seals and then weld the cylinder back together.

Hydro drive belt came off or broke,

The trend of no drain plug started over 20 years ago. with some of the mowers not having access to the drain plug due to deck design. And with self propel like the current models you can't access the drain plug without disassembly of the underside like in your case. The oil is drained by...

The trend of no drain plug started over 20 years ago. with some of the mowers not having access to the drain plug due to deck design. And with self propel like the current models you can't access the drain plug without disassembly of the underside like in your case. The oil is drained by...

I agree, but also believe that people should be responsible for their own actions. So unless the equipment failed and caused the injury the company should not be responsible. All the safety switches are there to protect stupid people from doing stupid things and blaming somebody else for...

The diagram just gives the illusion that 40 connects to 53 and looks like 28 goes between 40 and 10

Star you were not wrong assuming what you knew in the OP when you were the first reply. We didn't find out the actual model number until post 6 or post 5 if you count the overhead valve picture.

I am coming up with a 79109 deck using the 105-2473 belt

I suspect that a linkage got unhooks and then rehooked to the wrong place. That is a hydrostat mower with a fender controlled speed control, s o the belt should have no effect on the drive even if it was incorrect. From the diagrams it appears the belt is constant tension not controlled by...

Actually it does do something. Breaks the magnets that are epoxied to the outer housing rendering the starter useless.

If the starter was the only electrical component manipulated my first thought would be jammed wishbone allowing the solenoid contacts to remain energized.

The engine model number maybe etched into the side of the engine block next to the muffler. That number will get you to a parts diagram to see what parts are available.

or just the valve cover gasket https://www.briggsandstrattonparts.co.uk/briggs-and-stratton-engine-gasket-rocker-cover-272475s

Signs of dirt ingestion from the bottom. Looks like a ring groove at the top. No signs of crosshatching so worn .005+

Briggs recommendation is the 386777-3036-G1 superceding to the 386777-0143-G1

The cable with the spiral conduit is replaced by loosening/removing the clamp to get the cable out the other plain cable that terminates through the plastic block is replaced by replacing the cable with the end block already attached. model number of the the mower would allow us to look up...

True. Dino oil with synthetic additives can be called synthetic oil.

My concern at the beginning is what is the compression reading. Above 90 then I would consider replacing the carb and see what happens.