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Those are not fill ports as to service "per say". The EZT is designed to be "non-serviceable" Those large holes in the floor pan, are just standard on all the 2021 Bad Boys, so the larger mowers that have serviceable wheel motors, can be serviced. Now I said "designed to be non-serviceable" but...

Does your mulch kit include blocking off the grass chute?

Buy an O.E.M. belt from a Bad Boy Dealership (not a box store or the internet).....trouble can await anything else!

Yes...Bad Boy Hr meters do show the hr display at all times.

I take blades off everyday but we have a lift to where I can walk under even BIG zero-turn mowers but, before the lift, I would use a 3.5 ton floor jack, jack 'em up, use a jack stand for safety, then use my Matco 1/2" drive air Impact......knocks them right off! NEVER take the deck off just to...

The lap bar zero-turn mower will be just fine....there is a reason MOST ALL people have them, there is no comparison!

Could be, take the right valve cover off and turn the engine over by hand, while you look at the rockers, unless there is something visibly wrong!

That IS a nice looking little mower!

I just wonder when people a going to learn, when you order aftermarket parts, there is a very good chance that what you order WILL NOT WORK. The aftermarket markets don't have the all the factory specs on ALL the parts.....there are too many different changes in parts. There can be 10 different...

Sounds like your 1st mistake was buying from a box store....did you? Box stores do not repair them, most of the time and just try to send you on down the road!

Make sure all your pulleys, etc.......are not 1/2 frozen up and not turning free, that is always bad for a belt life!

Over half the stuff a person orders aftermarket, or over the internet....does not fit, is totally wrong or lasts a couple weeks, maybe! You get what you pay for....... I just speak the truth!

Take that model & serial # of the mower to any Hustler dealer and they should be able to fix you right up!

Soon to be 501......and counting lol

2 wires with alligator clips on the ends = 1 man testing operation.

:p no comment needed :p

I use an OHM meter set to 12DC. To see the flywheel key completely, yes, remove the flywheel...but 1st...check that battery volts under a load of the starter....like I explained earlier!

yes, I know that....prime it to start it = no more problem!

I was in Lowes the other day and peeked at their push mowers, $169 for the cheapest one, Walmart online I believe was $165, so this $99 mower kinda surprised me!

Alrighty then....that means the primer bulb is working and there is nothing wrong with the bulb, sounds like it primes each time you want it too......so NO NEED to change it! Some engines need primed every time to start up....especially with no choke assembly! Even 98% of NEW MOWERS, even HIGH...

I just saw an ad flyer in the local newspaper - New, Gas engine 20" push mower with large rear wheels for $99.99 I thought the days of $100 mowers were gone, I guess not!

I post this at least a few times a week.....when the shoe fits!

As long as you go into with both eyes open....it's on you. Might work out real well or, go the other way! I know It's hard to pass up a good deal.

The only way I would say buy it is....if you can diagnose all the problems and repair them yourself along with, having extra $$$ to put into it.....and or take the chance of it being beyond repair!

You first.....tell me if you tinkle on yourself!

Putting a vacuum gauge on a mower engine gives you NADA! Make sure you have a good full stream of gas to the carb, not just a trickle of gas. Running good / smooth with the choke on, is a carb problem.....as long as you have enough gas in the carb to begin with!

You have to PHYSICALLY LOOK at the spark and be able to tell if it's enough spark, and just because you have spark outside the engine, doesn't mean it's enough spark inside the engine with compression.....compression will "blow" a weak spark out and it will never run like that.

Sometimes when you run a mower out of gas, whatever is in the bottom of the tank (water / dirt) gets sucked up in the carb, causing a problem.....sometimes!

You bent something, a bracket or stretched out a cable....take a good look at it, see how it works.....then make adjustments as needed!

Get the REBEL....and you won't look back!

Only you know if it's worth fixing.....you are looking at it and have driven it, we have not. Some are worth fixing, while others are not cost effective to fix but, only you can make that decision!

Go with the widest deck you can.......(as long as it fits on your trailer, in the door were you keep it, and goes in between most the trees / obstacles in your yard).....because if you don't, you'll wish you did in 2 weeks!

That section of deck bracing is just that, for bracing only, the bigger that chute opening is without any obstruction, the better the cut grass will exit. It will weaken that right edge of the deck, as far as hitting / running into something but, when we were a Hustler dealer, I saw people open...

Drive belt slipping? How about the engine governor, is it set right, after the cam replacement?

Well....at least you'll have some other parts on the doner mower, in case you need something else!

You might have to prime it, even hot. As a engine gets wear on it, it doesn't react the same as when new....same with the carb. Try it, to find out. Nothing fires an engine faster than fresh, raw fuel!.......well, there is a couple things but I don't print it, don't really want anyone getting hurt!

I'm sorry........I CAN'T RESIST!

Your carb primer bulb is probably not working right. The prime from this primer bulb acts as the choke sending xtra fuel in the carb!

It could be something simple, like release handle employed or something else simple or....it could've been re-assembled incorrectly....or it could just be ruined! Re-check everything....you might find the problem!

Can you take a good, clear, close-up pic of it and post it?

Check your battery, I mean really check it, with an ohm meter as you engage your starter and read that #, what is that #? If battery tests good, check flywheel key, if it sheared, it moves the Ignition timing and it can "kick back" when you try to start it, kinda like you are describing....but...

You must have a Big Block / big HP engine, that is the only engines 20-50 is recommended for, other that that, IMO, Kaw 10-40 is good

What did the person you bought it from, tell you to use?

It's bad, are you gonna repair it or replace it?

You are correct!

I would've thought it would be easier to remove the carb from the engine, then to remove the engine from the unit just to get to the bottom of the carb but.....I could be wrong though.

A REBEL is light years ahead of a RZT 50......we are a Cub C dealer also!

If it's a Flathead, most flatheads, you take the valve cover / breather assy off, that is where the lifter meets the valve, there are no push rods. That is where the lash is measured and it is not manually adjustable like a OHV. When I used to build Flathead racing engines for racing go-karts...

Sounds like you have already talked your way into a Bad Boy....and I agree, we are a Bad Boy Dealer and sell a TON of them and I can say...it's one company that DOES improve there equipment every year! Some of the reason other sellers don't like Bad Boy is, Bad Boy is advertised all over the...

I know what you meant.....