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That's too bad. What would you be asking for that worthless mulcher?

It has to be Apple, huh?

I have to hold the blade control lever down while I use mine, as well. If you don't hold it down, it pops back up and the blade ceases turning, as designed.So what is the problem?

'However you are the very first & only person who has come here with a broken blade mount bolt.' Perhaps everyone else found their answer on YouTube, perchance.

Well, that rules out a bad cap. After that, the problem becomes as nebulous as bert suggests. As you are skillful enough to be able to clean a carburetor, the next steps should be fairly evident. Personally, I commend you. I was always told 'carburetor' was a French word that translated to...

Here's a link I found interesting on this site. Good reading: https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/briggs-and-stratton-els-26-hp.19359/ I have a cousin or two in North Tonawanda. Haven't seen them in years. I thought your area was still in the Snowblower forum part of the year with all the...

As bertsmobile sez, they fitted thousands with 'em and if there was enough warranty work, you'd hear about it. Just like those mid 90's Craftsmen motors. Notorious. My go-to is to put the mower/engine numbers in a YouTube search and see what comes up, then make up my mind. If it's in as nice...

Is that the woodruff key half-sticking out of the small hole in pic3?

Loosen the gas cap and try again. Just a hunch......

I'll admit when I'm wrong - I did find a B&S manual that directs turning on the side, when warm, to drain the oil. This shows tipping the motor forward to drain the oil! https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/7a/7a0d5e44-964b-461d-bb64-5fb7bcfcf393.pdf Viva la difference!

Honda says tipping is the way to drain their push mower engines. I am guessing that may be the most likely reason they dont put bottom drain plugs on them. These days, most push mower engines are Honda or clones. That's why most push mower engines do not have bottom drain plugs in them. See how...

I'll give it a good look on Monday. Thank You very much for the help!

In My Opinion, give it a shot. There are plenty of folks who like them, so you could always sell it if you end up liking your Husky better. It is the Top-of-the-Line Mower that comes out of the MTD factory, y'know. And for some reason, parts are plentiful and rather inexpensive. Perhaps this is...

Yes, there seemed to be gas leaking out from the case on both, but strangely enough, both stopped leaking after a few pulls on the cord. That was odd. Thanks for the pointers and tech bulletin! I'll give 'em a closer look. Although nice looking units, looks as though I'm not going to go too much...

This is true, but I did my spring maintenance first thing after the unit sat all winter undisturbed. I can't see the value of running a motor on compromised oil until hot, slinging the old, sludgy particulates all over the motor interior, and THEN wait for it all to drain out eventually. Why...

I just changed oil on a motor the same as yours yesterday. I took the time to undo the plug in the bottom and let it drain for half an hour. I was aghast at how much sludge was in the bottom of the drain pan when I poured it out. That certainly would not have come out if I had used a pump. My...

Hi: I have had 2 FS 36's and an antique-looking FS50 weedwhackers fall into my lap. Non-running, of course, or that might've really hurt!? Anyways, one FS-36 starts and runs but eventually starves out for fuel within a 30-45 seconds. A couple pushes of the primer and it will restart.Sounds nice...

Who mentioned slam in the first place, I humbly ask? We are merely quoting Honda manuals. Now we are counting in seconds......I'm done with this thread.

My Harmony 216 wants to stall if I don't let it run a bit before engaging the blade clutch. I have read elsewhere here that there is a carburetor adjustment (engine is running too lean) which can alleviate the issue, but have no first-hand experience with it. Honda clearly states to engage the...

I have considered the possibility. But a hardened bolt would be more 'brittle', you do realize? A 'softer' material (or more 'ductile' as we say in the business) would be less likely to fail at impact. I removed the blade and personally tightened the bolt with a 3/8" socket wrench a week before...

Do the following: Go get a beer and pour it into one of your finest draught glasses. Bring up YouTube. Enter 'LTX 1040 transmission' in the search bar. Watch a few of the videos. Weep bitterly into your beer. The salty tears improve flavor.

Having successfully dealt with the Honda Harmony 216 blade clutch repair, my next candidate is a Cub Cadet walk-behind, SRC 621 with Honda motor and caster wheels. I am researching how to remove the bolt securing the blade assembly to the motor shaft, which has broken about 1/4" inside the...

Thanks for your kind offer. If anyone would care to spend less, look up item 183796424160 on Ebay. Honda 76266-VE2-000ZA - STUFFING *NH105* Boats Marketplace has the best prices on Honda mower parts I have seen. I am not affiliated with them in any way.

I would like to commend you for your bravery for posting the eventual fix. So many threads here just die without any resolution to the issue at hand. That makes the thread practically worthless. It took some courage to admit the 'obvious' answer was as wrong as you could get. But goodness knows...

Yep, they sell........for $20 on a good day!:LOL: And so the circle turns.

Eh, it was only a craftsman, anyway.

You may well leave it a push mower, but if they're as rare as tranchinh indicates, I'd ask a hefty sum anyway and sell it as is! Look at the prices they're asking for used ones on Craigslist!

There's top-notch experts here on this site, no doubt, but maybe this is the trick:

I believe a daily procedure making oil and gas checks MANDATORY before starting the next job would be a good step. Too bad they don't make interlocks that will not allow the mower to start unless they have been checked.

When I bring up 'Snapper 1972 model SV180', all I get are pictures of riders. I'm afraid I won't be of much help here.

FYI, if you can get some Never-Seize or molybdenum paste, that has been successfully used for that purpose, as well.

Very Good. But I will stand by my statement, borne out by years of experience. Good Luck to you, none the less.

'I am assuming.....' Take it from sad personal experience: That is your first error.

Glad it was a simple fix. I haven't had to deal with a surging issue yet as I am still putting the blade clutch back together.

It appears a new trans might be a more direct path to your goal.

Wear Flame Retardant, Long leg pants before attempting to start. That's all the help I can offer.

My eventual fix for this problem was to never own a craftsman. Worked like a charm.

I once used a neighbor's craftsman self-propelled mower that would not start unless you filled the gas tank to the very top of the tank. It ran great once you did that. It would never start, hot or cold, without being filled right to the brim. I tried to get it to start, but it never would until...

Replacement will depend upon the results your initial inspection reveals. Black smoke may indicate a too-rich condition. A sticking choke will produce black smoke. If it's white smoke, they've named a new pope. There's a whole section on the Auto-Choke in the Honda section here

https://www.partstree.com/parts/honda-16100-888-065/ How Bout this one?

My girlfriend has an older Honda. Just today I said, 'nice mower, have you ever changed the oil?' She said, 'it's never run out, so, no........'

Check your auto-choke assembly. It sounds like the choke is staying on too long.

Ordering parts before one has seen the problem is a sure-fire way to waste money. One of these times, it will run out of oil before the previous use ends. Then you're up for a new motor. My suggestion would be to shut it down, tear it down and order parts based on the analysis of the tear-down.

Did you offer it a treat? My grand-dog will turn-over, fetch and speak for treats!

You do have a blade clutch on the unit, right? If so, remove the blades after pulling the spark plug boot for safety. Now remove the big bolt in the center. That is the blade clutch. Note there is a bearing surrounding that bolt. THAT is the blade clutch bearing. See if it spins freely. If...

Check the condition of the bearing in the blade clutch. It may be failing.

Ha. I know the answers to these questions now, but I'm 5 years too late! It's the bearing in the blade clutch going bad, most likely.

He must've figured out how to strat it..........