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Could be low voltage and resulting high current blew the fuse? Those are pretty powerful batteries for the size I'm thinking.

The only engine I'd ever run at 3600 is on a generator. I run the motor fast enough to get the job done.

Thanks for the info and download! That's a first, put the rocker on, tighten the nut down, then put the pushrod in the rocker. Hope those valve springs aren't too stiff. (actually hope I never have to get into this on mine)

13 volts on each battery in series would give you 26 volts output. You are only testing one battery. But you would need to find the ampere hours rating on those batteries and buy a couple new ones, not necessarily the Worx brand. SLA batteries on Ebay are pretty reasonable and I've had good...

I've wondered about that myself. Specs call for clearance, but with hydraulics you either turn the nut some after 0 clear, or just tighten it down. Wonder what the actual spec is for these?

I wonder if a standard Briggs coil with the built in module could be found that would fit (or could be made to fit) the mount on the old motor? Sure solve a lot of problems if so..

Textron did buy Homelite at some point. Probably bailed them out only to plow them under. Homelite used to make a pretty decent chain saw in various sizes and the old used motors were something else on a go kart.

Reach up under the deck and try to shake the blades with the belt loose. Should not wobble and should rotate smoothly. Slim chance there's a blade brake that's loose or worn out too. but doubtful.

Takes more power to use full hydraulic pressure. Belt slips on high pressure spike. Pulling back on the brake pedal will sometimes put more tension on the belts. Worth a try.

Probably find a lot of mowers out there for $2400 these days. Spend that stimulus check. Back in 1980 I was making $5 an hour in an engineering department. Bought the old John Deere SP mower for $450 - that hurt - but it still mows every week here. Never had the head off.

First thing to look for is an oil filter and drain plug on the transmission. That will rule out about 90% (100% ? ) of what's out there in the homeowner line. I did get a flyer from Ranch King and they list a couple riders with a manual shift transmission. Kind of interesting.

Not impressed by the Ferris?

Does this deck engage with a big handle that also lets the blade deck down?

Spindle bearings shot?

That automatic is a CVT setup. Not sure if this is a unit or a set of pulleys and belts. With your yard and the mower size a hydrostatic - even a, well never mind - transmission would probably give quite a few years of service and best way to go. Some comments on the turn tight deal are not too...

Twelve year old John Deere L130 riding mower. Family had several JD mowers over the years, really well built and good service. This one was a great mower when new, Kohler twin purrs, mows excellent, easy service. Then at just under 300 hours the hydro starting wasting away. I then learned...

Also what I have done is get out the Dremel tool, put on a cutter disc, cut a slot through the housing and into the adjusting screws. Small flat blade screwdriver then works fine. Would ruin the warranty for sure though.

I suspect that was to be a reply rather than a new thread? And in the John Deere line the more expensive models aren't that much better until you really get into the big money.

Was looking at a big Craftsman T310 (?) mower the other day. Beautiful red rider, big motor, 50" deck, big tires/wheels, just what I'll be looking for on my next mower. Then I looked underneath the back end and there was that K46 hydro, major let down there. and that mower was near $3500...

Thanks to the smut peddler for bringing this back up. Mods will probably axe that post pretty quick. But I wonder how you charge those Li-ion battery packs without over charging? Pretty easy to destroy those.

Look under the back of those mowers, see what type/brand of transaxles are under there. If you see a Tuff Torq K46 or 51 that's the one to get rid of - quick.

I would guess the torque ratings are quite a bit different on those hydros too. Bigger is better.

Take it apart and shoot a couple pictures. Could need a bushing or two, or new gears?

Find a stiff piece of plastic tube that can be pushed over the mixture screw, has to fit tight, can usually adjust with that. I have used Tygon fuel line on some adjusters.

Kind of points to the compression release mech. on the camshaft broke or stuck? One thing we used to do with the old Gravely tractors is to manually turn the motor over to the compression stroke, then on into the compression some. Then hit the starter and the increased speed and flywheel...

Consumer Reports and consumersearch.com regularly give the John Deere D100 series lawn tractor high marks for quality, cutting your lawn and dependability. Shows what they know, and what they get paid to report I suppose. From another review. General Transmissions makes the CVT transmission...

Read this review a while back. This is a fun, lightweight tractor designed for about 1/3 acre, flat lawns. This is a great mower for your small in-town lawn that you mow every week and you want to look the best. DO NOT expect this model to perform as well or last as long as the more expensive...

Maybe depends on the hydro make and model. An actual heavy duty (not just called as such) serviceable hydrostatic transmission will probably last about forever if maintained. Most of the disposable non-serviceable boxes that are found in most big-box store models are garbage in a couple years...

New in box smaller stuff sells pretty good on Ebay, if you have the time to list, pack, and ship. But shipping costs can be a big factor too. Facebook marketplace is pretty popular these days. Figuring out what stuff actually is can be the hard part maybe. Up here this is an ideal time for an...

Mght look around for an older Craftsman GT series rider. These will have a twin cylinder with a geared transmission, three speeds with high and low differential. I have a GT5000 that I have pulled cars, trees, loaded carts etc. Nothing fazes it. Twin Kohler really sounds nice too, mows decent...

Main question might be does that front stub shaft connect to anything?

First thing I'd do is a good visual check of the wiring and connectors of those safety circuits. Pretty new mower for a switch to go bad. Maybe something unplugged or a wire rubbed bare?

Now there's a good tip!

Those horiz. IC motors are pretty tough. Clean the carbon, lap the valves, get the clearance right, new gasket, probably good to go. And good to see those cooling fins on the cylinder are nice and clean.

Looks like the shutoff on my mower. Pry the metal strips away from the green plastic extension and the white plastic knob will pull out. A rubber seal disc opens and closes a port to let the gas in the line. Probably not actually rubber but something gas proof.

How far is it to the selling dealer. I'd load it up and take the trip, probably oil on belts under there too. This is exactly what the warranty is for.

A weak and aging battery will also have some lower resistance and allow the voltage to stay higher.

Does this mower have a fuel shut off between the carb and the gas tank? This needs to be shut off after every use if so.

You have a "non serviceable" Tuff Torq transaxle that probably needs service. Pretty common with this unit that was built as a throwaway but can usually be made to work for a while longer. Might check on Youtube for a K46 or K51 Tuff Torq video or read this...

When you put your hand over the air intake you put full engine vacuum on the whole carb, could loosen or suck through anything that gets lodged in the main fuel jet passages or supply.

That John Deere is a heck of a machine and with those big tires should give a pretty decent ride, but mowing around stuff would be pretty time consuming. . I'd look for the new mower to have those big rear tires for at least equal ride, and the suspension seat would be a big improvement. And...

Might put some plaque in the passages over time though. Maybe a "little dab" of Brylcreem as an additive? Sure oily enough.

No personal experience but that Ferris ZT with suspension and a deck control seems real interesting. Worth a look. Do you mow around a lot of stuff? Stopping and turning is where the time difference is mostly.

Same rod makes reverse work, does reverse work?

I'll add a bit more. Modern oils, API rated SM/SN/SN+ and those in synthetics, are made for modern engines. We're talking about micropolished journals, exact clearances, coated pistons, low tension rings, roller cam followers and rocker arms, very tightly controlled fuel mixtures, moderate...

Failing solenoid on the botton of the carb fuel bowl? Piece of crud or drop of water in the carb. float bowl that gets sucked up to the main jet, falls away when the engine dies?

Just me, I wouldn't run 5w30 synthetic oil in an air cooled lawnmower engine.

No,not me. Just a big fan of the old Lawn Boy mowers, especially the basic non-propelled models. Got a kick out the guy hitting it with the power washer too.

Pretty decent mower, pretty unique too. Don't know about a dollar figure but not cheap.