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That looks very similar to this one. Sorry I misunderstood your definition of OLD. I’ve forgotten more than I remember, so get confused very easily. Thankfully I’ve cut back drastically, due to recovering from a bout with sepsis, it’s some mean crap. NowI only do units when I know I can...

Not a bad design, just needs a bit more patience and understanding on how carbs work. They get a bad rap because people don’t have the patience or want to stick the time into properly cleaning and rebuilding. With a little searching there are some good videos on how to clean and rebuild them...

Started working on engines in the early 60’s. Briggs kick start, Maytag, hit-n-miss etc this site has come in handy more that once. With a little work you can still find or make parts for them. Four years ago I got a model N with reduction assemby going again. Really fun to work on, but you...

This is the one I have used for years when I come across an older BRIGGS. Sorry its not blue. https://mikeandjensoldengines.com/briggs-manuals/

Solid old engine, which I call a mule, just give it a little TLC and she’ll serve you well. I suggest you remove the carb and give it a good cleaning, plus replace the float needle and seat. Lawn Boy part number 92-9697. Here is a service manual with instructions, which will help you out...

You said you replaced the key switch, are you sure you used the proper switch? Many switches look alike, but you must check the terminals and make sure the old switch and the new switch have the terminals in the same location. They are labeled.

Logged in and out many times yesterday and this morning, no problems yet. Thank you for your help and due diligence in hopefully solving the problem.

Most times it will not load anything. Other times I will type in a reply, but it will not allow me to post it. I must quit the site, not log out, open new, reenter my material and try to post.

I think I’ve tried that in the past, to no avail. You must remember that many of us can fix most small engines, but are computer idiots, that’s me.

I don’t see any changes this morning. Took me 30 minutes of trying before it let me log in and forum is very slow. I appreciate all your efforts and can’t wait for you to resolve the problem. Good Luck.

Some Raptors do not use a starter relay and some do. Attached is a wiring diagram for Raptors. Might just have to trace the wires to locate the relay if it has one. https://documoto.digabit.com/ui/document/36428?q=939207

The model and spec numbers are probably stamped on the shroud, just above the spark plug or on the side. With those numbers we will be able to identify the primer bulb you need and a service manual for the engine. If you end up not being able to find the numbers, take a few pictures of your...

Please provide us with the model and serial numbers so we can see if it even has one.

Did you install the pump diaphragm and gasket in the proper order? Plus tighten the screws in the proper sequence? Section 3, page 9 of this manual will help you. http://www.tuks.nl/WFCProject/img/Engine_Carburator/81644210-Briggs-Stratton-Service-Manual-L-Head.pdf

Banging on a starter is not a good idea, you can do more harm than good. Might have to replace the starter. If you have a tech in your area, you could have him check it out, but if it’s bad you’ll have to pay for both for both check out and new starter.

The individual tabs on the back of the switch are labeled..

First thing that comes to mind, are you sure that your new key switch is identical to the old one? They may look the same, but you must check the tabs on the back are labeled the same. Most people don’t realize that they must check this. If they are the same see if this wiring diagram fits...

I guess I read this thread wrong, as I was assuming the OP was looking for trimmer brands, not line brands. Sorry about that. I use any off brand I can get at the local home improvement store, but I spray the line with a small amount of light lubricating oil after installing. The oil keeps...

Try this procedure which I use on my Echo. Put the choke on fully closed. Put the rope 2 or 3 times, until you hear it pop. Move choke to 1/2 position and pull the rope until it starts. This procedure eliminates flooding the engine.

Before bad mouthing anything, take it back and have the mechanic take a look at it. At a good repair shop and in a reasonable time periID, most good shops will replace a defective part under warranty. Wouldn’t be the first time I’ve run into defective parts.

Before doing anything more remove the key and bolt. Then take some medium/fine abrasive paper and polish the crankshaft until it is smooth and shiny. Wipe clean with an oily rag and the sump cover should slide right off.

This is the trimmer I recommend to anyone that asks. I bought this 8 years ago and have had absolutely no problems, and I’ve abused it. I don’t know if this model is still available, but Echo is the only way I will go. https://www.echo-usa.com/trimmers-brushcutters/srm-266

This service manual should answer all your questions. https://mymowerparts.com/pdf/Tecumseh-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/TECUMSEH-SERVICE--REPAIR-MANUAL-OHH50-65-OHHSK50-130-OHV11-OHV17-OVM120-OVRM40-675-OVRM120-OVXLC120-OVXL120-OVXL125-695244A.pdf

This service manual will explain how to adjust the governor. https://www.georgiaffa.org/docs/sidemodules/57817_Honda%20Repair%20Manual%20for%20GCV%20135-160-190%20&%20GSV%20190%20(1).pdf

Check your RPMs, if it is running below 3400, adjust. Running below the clippings will not be cut or thrown out properly.

This is the procedure I use. Report back with your findings and we’ll work from there. Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things. 1. How well you understand basic electricity. 2. What tools you have and know how to use. 3. How well you follow...

Thank you for educating me, I’ve always called that the front axle, learned something new today. Normally they should move freely, but I’ve seen a few where a bit of spray lube helps out.

Would you please explain what you mean by pivot bar? I’ve been working on equipment for over 50 years and have never heard that term on the front of a unit. This is probably why no one has responded.

I see I no need for the average DIY guy to purchase one of the expensive testers, which he will use as once or twice. I’ve used the simple neon tester for ever and have not had any problems. Do have one in my box, but I would be lying if i told you the last time I used it.

Maybe this manual will help you diagnose the problem. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kohler-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/Kohler-Service-Repair-Manual-Command-CH11-CH12.5-CH14.pdf

The kill wire I’m referring to is the wire attached to the coil. I made NO mention of the seat kill switch, which until you test the coil kill makes no sense in talking about.

Front wheel drive mowers are probably the worst mowers for steep inclines. Not much you can do to solve this issue.

Today’s coils cannot be tested without an expensive piece of equipment. If you are getting no spart through your inline tester, remove the shroud and then remove the kill wire from the coil. If you still have no spark, the experienced tech on this site will tell you to replace the coil.

Get yourself an inline spark tester and the next time it happens install the tester and check for spark. I suspect you will find no spark. You have either a hot short ot hot open, which means the coil will need to be replaced.

You are correct, the ignition module you will need is Tecumseh part number is 34443, superseded to Tecumseh part number 34443D.

Does anyone read the entire thread before posting? 45 posts and over half keep repeating check connections and battery. Constantly repeating the same solutions is not providing useful information and can get very frustrating.

When was the last time the belt was changed? If it has been three years or more I would start there. While you are doing that you should also check the idler pulleys and tensioner arm, making sure that they are in good condition and moving freely.

I would be checking your belt size. It wouldn’t be the first time we’ve seen a new belt that is too short, wouldn’t take much, that wouldn’t allow the spindles to completely release.

Might want to consider this also. https://www.toro.com/en/product/21472?srsltid=AfmBOopst985iIWCGO-HYPpm4eHRpxz96JCgXgXT_Lj_elCVEBuDCwrn

Slomo, read the first post, he’s looking for a cheaper tank that doesn’t breakdown or leak. I doubt color makes a difference.

Won’t get love with a comment like that, you must think the techs here have a crystal ball and have seen everything. Electrical problems are the toughest to solve, especially when we are not standing next to you with a strong drink, which you supplied, to see exactly what is going on. Most...

Any one who has spent time troubleshooting electrical problems has learned the hard way “NEVER ASSUME ANYTHING AND DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING “. Finally in my old age I’ve learned patience is my friend and speed kills. Hopefully the switch is your problem and you don’t have a frayed wire somewhere.

Here is a wiring schematic for your unit. If you notice the seat switch has a double contact setup, so simple testing with an Ohm meter will mean that you need to jump one side of the switch before getting accurate readings...

Lawn wizard, you are confusing two different circuits. Operator present circuit will shut down the engine, while reverse mow circuit shuts down the PTO. Assuming how they work will get you in trouble, read page 15, then follow Scrubs suggestion.

In my opinion you are making a bad assumption. The seat switch will kill the engine when the seat is not occupied. Read page 15 of this manual. https://www-static-nw.husqvarna.com/hbd/tdrdownload/v2/pub000004931/doc000018908/OM/C4Q3g-CygYDqqSUkOJJmmls_K_s?httproute=True

Model number has a 1 cut off, should be 13.

Are you sure you have it routed properly? Check this picture. https://www.partstree.com/models/xt1-lt-46-kh-13aqa9tta10-cub-cadet-46-xt1-enduro-lawn-tractor-kohler-2022/deck-4/

I doubt you will find any attachments available any more. Only the you might find is the bagger attachment.

Looks like a Toro model 22621 commercial unit. Most the these units came with a 4-cycle engine. Very reliable units and the engines lasted forever.

If you would take the time to look at the service manual I posted you would see all the different models of Toro and LawnBoy mowers which use the same transmission. Parts can be obtained from any good Toro dealer.