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Hello from 1 state to your East! Welcome....there is a lot of advice on this forum!

Oh yes...coils must be grounded to work...as are some voltage regulators also!

You don't need a "leak down" tester just to find if compression is leaking from a valve, just make sure both valves are closed or looks closed....remove rockers just to be sure, and put air in the spark plug hole....if a valve is stuck open, you will hear the air coming out, THEN you must pull...

The compression release, ACR, on most all mowers are on the Ex valve

If you're talking about that linkage that has that "u" in it, that is part of the choke system for the carb.

No, that might not be the end all....of problems you may have. We can only go by what you say and how you say it....in reality, one persons left, is another persons right...so to speak, so kinda hard to say 100% on anything we don't have our hands on. But we all try to help!

I tried this a few months ago just for s**ts & grins and yes, the engine did start up ok but, definitely did not run right.

I would use B&S 30 with a B&S engine and we tell everyone that buys a new mower from us,change engine oil & filter every 50 hrs or once a season, whichever comes first!....and check your eng oil before each use, it's real simple to just, pull the dipstick and check. You don't want to lose...

That looks like a Napa belt..anyway, most all aftermarket belts are not the same as OEM and don't work right or last any amount of time!

Coils have been known to fail when they get hot, then work again when they cool off.

A lot of times on lawn tractors, when you remove the battery, the battery tray can be removed also for access.

I wouldn't stand it on end, all your gas & oil might end up on the floor....not to mention your eng could end up liquid locked.

We are a Cub Cadet dealer, among other brands also, and most all the Cub Cadets that we uncrate, the rpm's are well below of the recommend spec, which is 3600 rpm. The engine rpm dictates how fast the blades spin, as long as everything else is correct, belt, belt tension,pulleys,spindles,etc...

I wouldn't remove the deck to clean the bottom of the deck but, you can do it that way. Have you checked your rpm's?

If you do ALL 5 things I posted in my last post, you'll be mowing better than before.....you can't be focused on just one thing!

The 5 things that make a good cut: 1st - sharp blades, 2nd - bottom of deck not packed full of grass, 3rd - level deck, 4th - engine RPM is to spec, 5th - not cutting too much/tall of grass at one time! You did state "mowing thru tall heavy grass"......ding,ding,ding.....we have a winner, you...

On a Ferris IS2100Z, the front deck hangers are attached to the Independent suspension arms and If you're not on a level surface and one of the suspension arms are raised up a little bit, it does that......so when you go over a bump or very uneven ground, the deck stays mowing level instead of...

Yes....some mowers do that, some spindle pulleys have more belt going further around them than others.

I use both, a 4 1/2" angle grinder or a 6" stationary belt sander......which one I use depends on what the blades look like and how dull they are!

IMO...2 1/4" or 2 1/2" is too low to mulch or even just mower, without a clumping problem unless you mow twice a week or more, and more so if, you have the chute blocked off.....even a Turf Tiger! Mulching grass can make the bottom of the deck get filled and collect debris, another clumping problem.

We don't know what kind of mower you have or if you have mulch blades....at this point, you are the only person that knows that, until you elaborate

15 -18 ft lbs is good

I see 2 problems here....1st, always run a mower a full throttle ( unless it's out of control & poses a problem or engine is over-reving )..2nd, moving when in neutral is linkage or brackets out of correct adjustment. Raptors have the whl mtr linkage at the back,on the bottom, all exposed to get...

Those mowers have a common problem with one or both wheel motors coming loose from bolts breaking or coming out, then the belt comes off to start with. Lift it up and check ALL the whl mtr mounting bolts & brackets

I sent 5 carbs, set-up for Alcohol, via USPS to a guy about 5 states away. He never got them after 2 weeks. I checked the tracking # and it said it got delivered. I thought Oh, hell, someone got 5 Alky carbs that wasn't supposed to! So, I had my personal detective (WIFE) track it down. Turned...

IMO....the biggest drawback on the GCV engine is not the plastic cam but, the Cylinder head is made onto the cylinder, it is NOT separate and does not unbolt! If you have a valve train problem.....you will see the drawback of that design! I worked on one today that had an EX seat drop /...

I agree on this!

That Honda engine right there in this pic looks like a GCV 190 OHV......Plastic cam with 1 lobe for both Int & Ex valves, 3/16" timing belt, Integrated Cyl head & Cyl......TERRIBLE IDEAS....hard to believe it has a Honda badge on it! IMO....stay away from this model of engine!

Did you replace the fuel lines? Is fuel actually coming out of the tank? Are the new fuel pump hoses / lines hooked up right? Is it pumping fuel to the carb? If the answer is yes to all those questions....the fuel delivery problem lies in the carb!

I have a few NEW B&S tanks if you can't restore the one you have.

I have several NEW take offs - Fuel Tanks and Mufflers - they are for a single cyl Predator 212 6.5hp engine $10 each + shipping

Most places will ship parts, if payed for in advance.

Things that cause that are : too much debris in drive system - cable / cables out of adjustment - drive belt broken or stretched - drive belt came off of pulley / pulleys - drive assembly bad Depends on where it was purchased to get warranty work done, box stores usually don't do...

That's about right....a Kaw engine raises the cost $300 - $400 of any mower

I believe that's a.....double bagger....both on her!

No fuel getting through the carb = no run.

Yep,,that has to come off first! Use what Scrub said....air hammer or my favorite...the torch!

Since it fired with a shot of fluid, it is not getting fuel in the engine. Start looking at the fuel system.

I can't see your video but, everything has to be removed from the output shaft of the crankshaft for the sump to slide off the crankshaft....blade adapter, pulleys, or anything else.

Simple Green or equivalent for a carb cleaner ...and foam rubber lightly oiled for an air filter

But when they both turn over and face the other way....that's when the supercharger kicks in......!

Take a valve cover off, drill & tap 1/8" NPT on top and buy a brass 1/8" NPT x 1/4" straight brass fitting.....you're set!

No...there is A LOT more to it than that. It might be out of reach for you.

I luv the simple stuff.....because a lot of the times, it is not. Glad you got going easily!

Real common occurence.......as long as there is a grease zirk in the middle of the bearings, I take off both inside seals so it will get greased, then I explain this to the customer, they luv it...and you now have another returning customer!

First thing to do is , look at your belt and routing, make sure that is OK and aligned, then check and make sure the belt is tight along all the pulleys.