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Not all of us are English scholars. Let's relax on those that are not as fortunate.

Amen brother. We got rid of all ours several years ago. Got tired of the yearly pruning at $3500 before covid pricing. Not to mention the last guy in office prices. Also the plumbers calls after hours when the drain gets clogged from the roots under the slab. A couple of those ain't cheap...

(y)

Good catch here. Fuel expands when hot as well.....

Flywheel key.

Plastic weld it. Very simple. Can use a simple soldering iron and zip ties for rod. They make plastic welding kits you can get for cheap. I've repaired several trimmers and two backpack blower tanks. Have fuel in them year round for what 5 plus years now. No leaks so far. Got tired of buying new...

With good prep, lapped parts, new head gasket and hi tack spray, I've never had an Intek Briggs toss the head gasket again. Normally, knock on wood, a permanent repair. Again it's all in the prep.

I don't use feelers. Just lap the head and the block area with a small sheet of plate glass. The block area doesn't come out perfect but way better than what it was. Just lap it till you see the material flatten out best as you can. Small figure 8 swipes. Let the sanding paper do ALL THE WORK...

Is your fuel filter on backwards? Look for an arrow on the body.

You know those are abrasive right? You are cleaning aluminum parts. Scrapping or sanding is your last resort. Lacquer thinner, glass cleaner and such are good to start off with. Razor blades and such, huge no-no.

When you remove a head, you must lap the head and block area where the head sits. It's all in the prep. You don't clean the area and toss on a new gasket. Every head I've pulled from 2hp to say 22hp, all were warped. 220, 400 and 800 grit on the garage door window. Let the paper do the work. No...

Riders and 0-turns are already excessively heavy that they all, rut the turf badly. Soil compaction to the max. I typically push mow all the time. When I break out the rider just to use her, I can tell the ground is more compacted after one rider mow. And I have a Snapper rear engine rider that...

Got to have some choke for cold starts.

If you guys are worried about wasting oil, drain it in a coffee filter and pour it back in. Again we are talking 18 ounces of oil per oil dump. Do "something" to get the metal out. Go to wallymart and get a gallon of SAE 30W oil. All of what 13 bucks? You have to get the metal out of the...

Oh and welcome to the forum.

It's not an hourly time period. Has zero to do with time. Has everything to do with removing the break-in metals from the oil sump. This is a push mower engine. It holds what 18 ounces of oil? What 2 bucks per oil dump?

Remember those parts being the end cap and the drain tube look to be steel. Engine block is aluminum. Don't try to mega torque the tube into the block. I agree some pipe dope should seal her up. No need for massive torque here.

Go open the hood of any heavy duty 18 wheeler truck. Count filters and "gallons" of oil required. Report back here with your findings. We both know, any non turbo Diesel is a dog. Sounds like we've driven them both. You also agreed with my statement on the lack of zip with them. Agree. Also...

Just asking why would you want a Diesel? Every one must be turbocharged. Try and run one without a turbo. Remember the old 240 D Benz Diesels. What a total dog. Course you couldn't kill those engines with a bucket of sand in the oil sump. My opinion, Diesel torque ratings, you divide by 2 to...

Home Depot, Lowes and many more will have rivets in several material types as well.

Yup, steel screws in aluminum parts. Dissimilar metals....... Glob on some anti-seize when you get them out. Carb bowl screws. Dope them up when you clean a carb. Much easier to remove for the next guy. Blade retaining bolts.

Get you an I-Fix-It-Kit. They have a ton of precision ground bits in all kind of unique sizes.

Bent blade.

See above this post.

How about 1.air 2.fuel 3.compression 4.spark, at the correct time.

Heli-coil or retap yours. Little pipe dope should keep her dry. Might have to flip the engine over to keep metal chips near the plug opening. Going to make a mess. 1/2" or 3/4" impact?

If it's air cooled, clean the cooling fins. See if the error goes away.

Were the valves fully closed when you tested for compression? Most of the time people use a small or big block engine compression tester on outdoor power equipment. Most have a super long hose. Gives low readings on OPE. I would pull the piston and free the rings. Put her back together and...

Let's keep it slow with the replacement parts ideas until she is fully tested. Air, fuel, spark at the right time and compression is what she needs. Find out what you are lacking.

Dur dunt ditl dunt dur dunt dityl dunt. My best Dukes of Hazard horn honk. LOL Thanks for letting us know.

I have NEVER done that......... LOL LOL o_O

My guy, THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE!!! (y)

POA is lovely..... LOL Not. Bout like Goosegrass and yellow sedge to name 2. I can kill the sedge in my yard. It will come right back. Guessing the rootball is not getting any herbicide.

Don't know for sure but I would guess at the Briggs Walbro might fit as well. ???? Or be close enough to easily adapt to.

Yearly if not more often is recommended in our manuals. Good man......

Typically surging is lack of fuel delivery as Tiger Small Engine was talking about or a dirty carb. Check there first as he recommended. (y)

You have two of these doing the same thing? LOL

I would change the oil immediately after every mow for at least 4 mowings. Or until, out in the sun, you see, all the metal is gone from the sump. Look AT the used oil with magnifying glasses on. You will see a ton of metal flakes initially. Then another dump or two for good luck. That engine...

That is WAY different than a Briggs Nikki. That looks to be a simple rebuild. Give it a shot. Not seeing any negatives as long as it fits what you have.

Battery needs load tested. It all starts at the battery.

What are you talking about?

Depending on the grass type, might take 2-3 sprays to eliminate your old grass type. Bermuda is one. This could be your old grass coming up you are seeing??? What flavor of grass did you kill off?

Now the truth comes out. Those Nikki's, I've had nothing but bad luck. Bought aftermarket and OEM rebuild kits. Those ultra small o-rings get poorly punched out and leak. Never could get them to work proper. Some guys love rebuilding them and have good luck. Trash can it went. Used a Walbro...

They don't look like rye to me. Maybe they are. Did you smoke off the old lawn prior to laying the sod?

Soil test is a must. You don't just drop sod and expect an instant yard. Root system looks fabulous at 6+ weeks. People like me with hard clay are envious.

Bait out the yard. Fire up the .25 cal air rifle. Fill up the freezer with fresh venison.

Now that I think about it, I might need more like 80-100 grit. So as you say 60 grit should be good. Good tip.

Simply weigh each blade end where the edge is on your scale. An immovable object to place the center of the blade on where the bolt is. The scale and the center support at the same height. Flip the blade and weigh the other side. If you are anal like me, I spend time dialing my blades in for a...

AH sandy soil huh. Try those Oregon G6 blades. You might also dust down the lawn with water prior to mowing. Yup sand kills blades fast.

Do the video again, without the jet plane overhead. I can't hear the music.