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Next time test what you have prior to ordering parts. As in place the choke on partially and see how she runs. Surging is typically a fuel thirsty condition. Or spray some juice into the carb throat and see if she levels out.

You might download your engine manual. Read it cover to cover. Lots of good tips on how to properly maintain the engine and make it last.

If you've never done one, I would read up or watch some videos on youtube. Easy if you are comfortable doing it.

Lower the rez down if you get an upload error. Most of the time copy and paste or drag and drop works unless the pic file is too large.

Unless the coil is seriously rusted where it sits on the block. Meaning it would have a poor ground. Pull the coil. Clean and polish her and the mounting areas all up like new. Check for spark. No need to remove rust on the iron part of the flywheel. If you see that much fuel blowing out, you...

Most of the time that is correct. Or if the coil mounting areas are rusted over it doesn't have a proper ground. I like to pull the coils and polish them up. Clean the mounting screws a bit.

But mine are metric LOL (y)

Most alternators or charging coils will never properly charge a battery. One crank of the engine and the reserve gets depleted. Sure you might see 15 volts but how many amps? That is where most are deficient. Put it on a real charger like a Battery Tender brand. That way it's fully topped off...

Pull the oil dipstick and smell for fuel. You need air, fuel, spark at correct time and compression.

Any dope be it oil, anti-sneeze or what-have-you will lower your final torque value. So lubed up will require less torque.

20+ year old machine here. If they have a sandy soil, for sure all pulleys are shot.

Lower amp rate the better for battery longevity. Quick chargers with a ton of amps are battery killers.

If under cranking the battery falls under 10.5 volts DC, she either needs charged or replaced. Assuming terminals/cables are clean and tight. Load test the battery for free at any local auto parts store.

You've never read mower batteries offer 1000 cranks. If so it was a battery commercial. Typically last from 3 minutes to roughly 3 years. Nothing set in stone. Most people leave them outside in sub freezing weather over winter. No Battery Tender applied. Best in the winter, pull the...

Band-Aid only. Fix the real problem.

Is this a setup post? Really have to ask that question? If you just want to chit-chat then visit your local nursing home. Those good folks will appreciate it.

If the new belt is wider then the old one is worn, guessing from my keyboard. If you've wore it down that far then the pulleys are suspect too.

To me there is too much slack in the belt. Maybe some Honda experts will chime in. You'd have to look at your parts list and see what all is involved. Then say tug on the belt and see if she slips. Did you use an OEM Honda belt or something off Scamazon?

Scamazon has them for 25 bucks delivered to your door. No deck tipping required.

20+ years old. Maybe time for pulleys. Belt and cable got her going for a touch. Or your cable is not set proper??

Or Drain the oil and fuel if you want to tip it over. Only talking about 18 ounces of oil and Hence draining the oil and fuel.

Let's seal the valve cover first before the second stage booster is installed. :D By all means, if a real gasket is offered, use it. Stay clear of RTV if at all possible. Think of the next guy that has to pull that cover off, and CLEAN it all up.

Doesn't help the OP much but this is the main reason why I will never have a hydro mower. Belt drive system is way cheaper, lighter and takes less HP to operate. Oh and way faster getting the mower back in service doing driveline repairs like this. Mower shop will have a hydro drive for 3 months...

Or Drain the oil and fuel if you want to tip it over. Only talking about 18 ounces of oil and fuel. So much easier restarting once you are done say sharpening the blade or oil changes. Doesn't foul the plug out either. Probably needs an oil change and fresh fuel anyway.

Fishing scales. Easy right?

If you can't buy it, make it. Shop grinder and maybe a welder.

OEM belts or wonder brand of the week?

Mower carbs work like a toilet. Flip the carb over. Float should shut off the fuel flow into the bowl. Take a hand pump and put vacuum on the carb needle at 7pst for 30+ mins. Hook pump hose to the fuel inlet tube on carb body. Or youtube carb pressure testing. Several good videos out there. One...

Could be coil and or plug. Could be a counterfeit plug in that hole. See if you have over say 5k Ohms on the fouled plug.

Just wanted to say hi. 13 pages for a tire leak is pretty gundy.

Not if the blade bolt is tight. All that should tighten when you overtorque the blade bolt with your impact gun. Bolt only needs a rough value of 35 ft lbs.

Talking about the coolant tubes? Worse to worse, pinch them off. Solder them up. I know "real" radiator shops are kinda thin around town. Take it to your local Vo-Tech or high school welding shop. Or someone that welds. Wonder if you could measure the core and find a generic replacement?

What is shot about it? Post up some pictures. Might be an easy fix.

It's a mower cylinder. Looks brand new to me. Run it till she pukes. You guys need to get drastic on sealing your air filters. I've used the below on all mine so far. Will leave alone till she needs a few extra pulls or cranks. Then pull apart and install a new filter. Never pulled a carb...

Fuse, switch, relay and or maybe some mice chewed wire. Trace it back from the PTO.

Vette's and Porche's just to name 2 are factory filled with group 3 Mobile 1. They are "synthetic". :rolleyes: Ever notice how cheap Mobile 1 is at wallymart? Now price Redline or any real synthetic.

Since I stopped buying the cheapest "China" carb, my luck has drastically improved. Maybe a get what you pay for deal??? Meaning buy a China special that costs say 10-15 buck more than the cheapest.

I install on every mower possible. And a crappy filter if there is room on the line. Got to get drastic with all these fuel related issues.

My oil is better than StarTech's oil. :cool:

Ah maybe yes and no. On the Chinese carbs, I've found you have to open her all up and see if something needs attention. Like float levels and several other differences. Make sure the needle/seat holds at 7psi for 30+ mins. Jets are the same size........ Also don't buy the cheapest Chinese carb...

I tried rebuilding a Nikki with OEM Briggs parts. I failed at it. Bought a Chinese clone of the Briggs single cyl Walbro. Ran like a top.

Go StarTech, go StarTech............. Love it. :D

Agree. The ol' don't use synthetic oil in a new engine is garbage. All oils are formulated to be "roughly" the same for specific vehicles. Also in the USA, printing synthetic on the bottle doesn't mean it's 100% synthetic. Might be ONE item in the add pack that is synthetic and they call the...

Don't think new mowers do that. So normal, would say no. Sounds awful thick. Probably be fine in 100+ F temps. It's only a 20 grade thin oil. Follow what your engine manual states for oil.

An hour meter means zero on lawn equipment. Could of unplugged, stopped working, just installed and several other factors. The main buying word you need to focus on is used.

Bottom line, fix carb needle/seat. Do NOT try running it with fuel diluted oil. Dump oil and filter if it has one. New SAE 30w to the full mark. Pull the carb off. See if fuel is running out of the carb throat. Float, needle and seat should seal off like a toilet. Inverted carb...

What RPM is this happening at? Are you running her at low revs? If you are under 3400 revs, not recommended due to lack of air cooling and lubrication.

All those OEM Briggs parts? If not, every one will require testing. Could have a Chinese carb. Counterfeit plug. Over torqued gasket sealing area. Set valves wrong, IN and should of been EX. Tank needs to be inspected for full flow into a glass jar or fuel can. Any elbows will catch trash and...

Typically the mower will fall apart before the engine. But hey, things happen.