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Focus in tighter. I got the same on a wider shot of your picture. Said it was St. Aug as you found.

I would prep the seat pan. Sand off all the old adhesive and paint. Use rough paper to allow the adhesive to get into the metal and stick. It's all about the prep work.

Any back-firing through carb or muffler is either cam or ignition timing out of whack.

Using your picture provided, Picture This said it is Mondo Grass.

Think it is also for cool season grasses as well. Read the label.

Open the tester gap to 0.25" or 1/4" wide minimum. Should jump this gap if the coil is good. No spark with kill wire disconnected means new coil time.

Make sure you ID it proper before firing harsh chemicals at it. Might be using the wrong herbicide.

There are many aps you can load on your cell phone. I use one called Picture This. Snap a picture of said weed or plant and it tells you ALL about it. Free ap on a Samsung phone. Works great to help me ID my weeds and such.

Mine looks great too without all the extra expenses. There are a couple guys on this interscreen that work along side these Air-8 and Humic companies that are getting fat off us. They make youtube videos and have a large following. Smart guys no doubt. They just make you feel like you "need"...

Snip off the after-fire solenoid plunger tip with some dikes. Install an inline fuel shut off valve. Close the fuel off about a min prior to killing the engine. Never have to worry about it starting again.

Flywheel key or new cam time.

These are mower engines not the space shuttle. Lapping seals valves to valve seats. Pretty important in the combustion process.

Check carb after-fire solenoid.

My usage with Air-8 was a waste of money. Tried their entire line for 3 seasons. Really laid the product down as in over dosing the juice on the turf. Still have stubborn clay. Done all the humic acids and other "tricks" to turn clay soil around. Never found any. Spent a lot of $$$$...

Need to put a multi-meter on the PTO circuit. Visual doesn't do much for wires carrying current.

You have a short on this circuit. Find out why and where on said circuit. Wires rubbing, mice chewing....... Call JD and ask for a diagram. I bet they have a toll free number. Keep your original starter solenoid. Has zero to do with the PTO.

One can use a cereal box to do just that. Also hit it with some Permatex High Tack gasket sealant. Works like a charm.

Most of those tow behind style aerators don't work. As in if you have hard pan clay soil, you have to get the moisture content perfect or it won't make cores/plugs. Too dry doesn't penetrate the soil. Too wet is a clay clogging mess. Best to rent a machine that mechanically punches cores into...

Never go off wire color to determine what is on said wire.

Blade or two upside down? Seen it several times. Wrong blades? Wrong spindle?

Honestly penetrating lube, does nothing but lighten your wallet. As you found, most of the time, it doesn't get past the rust. Those induction heaters for stud removal are cool.

Take any flammable spray juice. Spray it into the carb throat preferable with choke and throttle plates open. If it runs for 1-3 seconds then dies, you know you have a fuel delivery issue, good spark and good compression.

A cheap hot plate, cheap pot from the wife's cupboard with some Pine-Sol water.

Not at all. Never owned a 0 nor had a need for one. Soon as a company comes out that offers a superior design, less maintenance, easier to work on, better deck and blade combos, I'll stick with my fleet of old Snapper's. Can stand my RER on it's tail end and service away. And the pushers...

No, pretty fresh. Didn't see why 15 pages were needed on a leaky most likely dry rooted worn out tire.

That is a tool for checking spark. Is it the best tool for checking spark, no. Why - spark can fail at mid and high revs where the light bulb type will not show. Taryl on youtube has a video showing this exactly. These types below are superior spark testing tools.

If it is still backfiring with a good flywheel key then a new camshaft is in your future.

Check out Jim Jackson on youtube. He has a ton of great videos on these RER machines.

Thanks for letting us know she is a runner.

Once you get the pulley off the crankshaft, please glob the snot out of the end of the crank with anti-seize goo. Next guy will thank you upon removal. Same goes for those rear hubs on those machines. Anti-sneeze the crap out of those axle hub pieces.

I wouldn't even "try" to revive one that was charged in reverse. My luck would be nothing left but lug nuts on the slab LOL.

Guessing she is rusted onto the crankshaft. Two set screws are all I know about securing it on the crank. I couldn't get mine off either. There is an adjustment needs to be made. The depth of the steel drive disk TO the rubber ring, driven disk. If yours doesn't pull a hill then you need more...

Not familiar with your machine. Test the switch several times. "Guessing" it could be a normally open or closed contact??? Any mice chewing wires at your place? Inspect the harness for the blade switch.

If it was over filled, it was over filled. Drain out the excess. Don't try and run it to burn it out. Remember all that extra oil burns away and makes carbon. Carbon quickly shellacs up the cylinder and valves.

Should be able to measure the boss where the seal sits. That and the valve stem diameter. Take those to an auto parts store. At least put an umbrella type on there. Best is the positive style in the intake and umbrella on the ex. Is that red junk even viton? Probably recycled bicycle tire...

Remember, Mom was driving........ Just saying. :D

Hope you find a bad key. The next likely fix is the camshaft.

I use an air hammer and a long pry bar. Couple zips and she is free.

One can snip the after fire solenoid plunger off. Install an inline fuel shutoff valve. Close it a minute before shutting the engine down. Never have to worry about it "not" starting again.

200psi is up there. I would say it needs it. 89 octane is a bare minimum at that. Just follow the manual. Why risk it? Would suck running another fuel can just for a saw but, some of those saws ain't cheap.

Nikki strikes again. Forget it guy. A carb sitting for 3 years needs to be boiled clean several times. Even then it might not run good. I would get a Walbro replacement Chinese carb. Hate to recommend non OEM parts but a Nikki is a POS. Tried couple times with OEM Briggs parts. Never ran right...

Just resize in windoze 11 Photos app program deal. All you need is 640 x 480 for this site. Don't need hi rez stuff.

Check flywheel key.

200psi comes out to 13.6:1 static compression. That is pretty high. Aluminum block/head helps cool the cylinder. From the MS 250 manual below. Stihl recommends a minimum 89 or higher octane. "

Oh like this mower battery. Forgot about those. Duh, mower forum..... LOL

What is a flat terminal? There are top post and side post versions far as I know........

That is only during charging - BUT - better safe than stupid. Agree, pull the battery out.

Does the wrong part, fit your head?

Typically this is either a lack of fuel delivery or a weak ignition coil. Bugs and trash in the fuel tank clogging the tank outlet for example. Fuel line interior degraded causing restrictions. Weak coils can have low rpm spark then fade at mid to high revs. Won't see this without a gap type...