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I always use Permatex Gasket sealer on one side , Don't put anything on it until you are ready to put the 2 halves together, Use sealer or whatever you like only on one side in case you need to take it apart again , the gasket will hold and you should be able to re use it not having to scrape it...

If they're all the same you got some spares , you don't need more than one, Sometimes they'll put several different types to fit a various assortment of engines

If it does not hit when using starting fluid it would seem to be ignition - if you have spark you'll need to look at the timing - maybe sheared the keyway on your flywheel - it does not take much. Did he hit something hard while mowing ? Hold your finger in the spark plug hole while cranking it...

I've seen both a drain plug and having to tip the mower over, if there's a plug it will be on the base or underneath the machine , doesn't hold much so it's pretty easy.

If you having to run it with the choke you're starving for fuel , look at your carb first

Most times you need to rev it up almost full throttle when engaging the clutch , then you can moderate your speed to where you want it

Park the machine on a level surface and measure each side's ground clearance - if it's 1/4" or thereabouts I would not worry about it - as for leaving strips of unmowed grass That would not have anything to do with a level / unlevel deck - How old are your blades ? they tend to wear on the...

Well it wouldn't be running if he dropped a push rod or a valve

I got a set off Amazon and they worked fine

The exhaust side will be hot but not the intake - Never really checked valve cover temps on any engine, On large industrial engines if you felt the intake was hot it told me I had a burnt valve

Put 12 volts on the solenoid and see if it engages, Just clicking like you say sounds like a bad battery connection You can Jump across the larger terminals on the solenoid - if the starter reacts to that you know the starter is good but solenoid is not. Lots of the machine have extra wiring...

I've rewired a few machines and did away with all the safeties but that's me

I usually drive a couple of chizles at 90 degrees apart then hit the top of the crankshaft with a 2 lb ball pene hammer a good lick and it pops up for me - Do that and apply a little heat if it does not pop up for you

Depends on how thick the cut grass is , real thick will cause dead spots where it sits or lays. thinner stuff just sorta goes away and doesn't really hurt anything , I only rake and gather mine when it's really thick.

If it's firing and starting up - it's not your coil in my opinion, I think you have a fuel issue somewhere , coils either fire or not , fuel problems however behave like you're describing

Looks like you got lucky - a new rod might just be all you need along with gaskets etc.

Make sure your crankcase isn't damaged. Valves maybe bent and head could be scored up too

Might look at a possible safety switch shutting you down - if it is doing the same thing after you worked on the fuel system - either you still have a fuel delivery issue or a safety switch is shorting out - I think if it was fuel you would see and notice a bad running machine before falling on...

It ain't the heat , it's hot everywhere - I've had over 100 degrees for 20+ days here and not seen anything like what you're describing and no one else is having this issue, it's something else in my opinion - Neve have I heard of gasoline boiling in a fuel tank

Not sure about that model but most likely you'll need to drop the hydro low enough to work the fan off, I know on mine and most I've see there is barely enough room to work the belt on

replace the carb or rebuild it, your needle valve is leaking

I think there may be a fuel return on this machine but either way pretty sure it needs a vent on the fuel tank

Doubtful - I'd look at a replacement - never seen one go bad but sure it can happen

Stick a small rod in the spark plug hole and roll it slowly and make sure the piston is moving up and down , if you threw a rod it will not be moving and if that's the case you needn't worry about a rebuild , just replace the engine or mower itself

Bearing puller will apply force at the thick part of the pully near the shaft and will not damage the outer edges of the pully

There is no set screw , use a 3 pronged puller and put some heat on it - concentrate the heat near the shaft area or you'll bend your pully on the outer area , keep applying pressure with your impact and keep your torch moving. I don't think a small propane torch will do but maybe worth a try...

post some pics if you can - I'm not following what you're saying

Just use any flat washer but use a Nylock nut so it wont back off from vibration - or use locktight on the threads

You probably have a fuel delivery issue- fuel pump or suction lines leaking air or collapsing internally, Being it starts up again when it's acting up , it does not sound like an ignition issue

If your rings are leaking you'd have lots of crankcase pressure blowing from either the oil fill cap, dipstick or any vent you have - would also be smoking like a train and plugs would be wet with oil residue .

mine are under the seat but it's a different machine

There should be a relay that reacts to the safety switches, My machine has about 4 I think and they are all the same - if yours has relays like this , swap them around and see if the problem goes away or switches to another area.

I'd doubt any cylinder is leak free, if it runs good and not smoking there is no worry , why are you doing a leak down or compression test? It's not a head gasket leak or valves leaking , if so it would be noticeable when it is running - my suggestion to every situation is " if it ain't broke ...

Is the linkage working ? does it move the throttle plate at all ? might have just come loose from the cable mount

The nut on the pully should be spinning with the Shaft - if it is not, then you're getting friction there and causing the heat issue. I'd pull the whole assembly , the shaft / bearings and pully will need to be replaced. This probably has a lock nut on it

Are you saying your blade speed is slow ? or your Drive system is slow , If it's your blade speed you'll need to look at the clutch

Could you have been feeling the fan around the flywheel ? I doubt it's your head gasket - a leaking head gasket probably would not show up as an oil leak , Clean it good and get your oil level right and run it again to verify where the leak is , take another few pics so we can get a better...

It's so dry here even the goats are looking for weeds / grass or anything

Some of these switches have dual contacts and only one side is used , you can move the wires over to the other 3 contacts and it works fine.

Just splice the wires yourself, they sell 3-4 and probably

Deck height shouldn't effect the deck belts only the Drive belt angle , mine needs high RPM's to engage initially then you can slow the machine down to where you like to run it.

Have you checked the spindles ? what about the idler pully and tension spring arrangement? What is the history on the machine ? Did you change anything when this started ?

Just splice the wires yourself, they sell 3-4 and probably multiple pin connectors at the auto parts house, just buy the female and it's counterpart male.

Better look at the wiring , test the switch with an Ohm meter , if it opens / closes the circuit it's either the wiring or a safety relay. Do any of the safeties work ? if so, swap the relays and see what happens

If the motor blew up and is shot , the pully ruined why pull it off anyway ?

No I'd imagine the lighter weight blades would not put enough strain on the machine and possibly let it run away, the governor should react and limit your rpms either way in my thinking. Just check the weight and go forward from there, make sure all your linkage is correct and free. I've never...

Better check your pto clutch

The ac voltage sounds about right, the DC output should be around 14volts or thereabouts , there is one terminal on the voltage regulator for this output , your volt meter should register DC voltage when the machine is revving up to operation speed. The starter relay only comes into play when...

This should have a washer the size of the metal bushing in the center so it does not contact the plastic part. These only last so long b/c there is no way to lubricate them to my knowledge. If it turns freely that's about all you can hope for. I've never torqued one , they usually come with a...

Check all your fuel supply lines for leaks , collapsed lines ,fuel pump operation etc.