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That is part of de-carbonizing the cylinder/s in your engine manual. Download you manual and read it cover to cover.

It's not bandwidth. It either loads pages or doesn't. Server error 500 a lot.

Recommend you load test your ignition coils. Should jump a min 0.25" in free air. Right plug might have weak spark???

As long as both cylinders have clean cooling fins and typical cylinder valve/cylinder sealing conditions ect..... Left plug looks "good" BUT main jet is filthy rich. Look at the base ring where the threads stop towards electrode. This is where you size the main jet up. Both plugs are black in...

Clean what you have first. Even cheaper.......

Sealed gas can spouts helps too. Replace all your old open top can spouts ASAP.

This is a good can too.

+1 As well as dirt, bugs, grass and all other junk you don't want in your carb. All you guys using open top fuel cans better get a new EPA sealed pain in the rump spout. Better flush out your can or all that gunk will be heading towards your carb. Briggs makes a good can and spout...

When you own 5 mowers, a top side sucker as you say is a dream. Plus when you tip you can scratch the deck, wheels and handlebar up.

The whole machine is made in China. Cubs are not what they used to be.

They are not listening to Mark Suckerburg. He knew if his servers went down it would compromise the entire effort.

This isn't nipple dot com. Overloaded I would think is a stretch. All 5 of us on here per day.

Some people take a small dope needle and inject grease into the black rubber seal. That fills the bearing with grease. Then a small finger dab of sealant or rubber cement to cover the hole. Right where the RED arrow is at in the above pic. Some spindles not all, have a hollow tube in the...

Looks like a beaver has gotten to it. .

Try a leaf blower or compressed shop air first. Pull the engine shroud and clean the cooling fins, all around the block. I applaud the cleaning effort. Turtle Wax the deck and apply used motor oil to the under side of the deck. Tires properly aired up. Valves ran.

How often do you cut your toe nails?

12.0 needs charged. 12.6 is fully charged with no surface charge on it.

Anyone use Slime yet?

I made a post about constant site interruptions. All I got back was crickets.

Next time test what you have prior to ordering parts. As in place the choke on partially and see how she runs. Surging is typically a fuel thirsty condition. Or spray some juice into the carb throat and see if she levels out.

You might download your engine manual. Read it cover to cover. Lots of good tips on how to properly maintain the engine and make it last.

If you've never done one, I would read up or watch some videos on youtube. Easy if you are comfortable doing it.

Lower the rez down if you get an upload error. Most of the time copy and paste or drag and drop works unless the pic file is too large.

Unless the coil is seriously rusted where it sits on the block. Meaning it would have a poor ground. Pull the coil. Clean and polish her and the mounting areas all up like new. Check for spark. No need to remove rust on the iron part of the flywheel. If you see that much fuel blowing out, you...

Most of the time that is correct. Or if the coil mounting areas are rusted over it doesn't have a proper ground. I like to pull the coils and polish them up. Clean the mounting screws a bit.

But mine are metric LOL (y)

Most alternators or charging coils will never properly charge a battery. One crank of the engine and the reserve gets depleted. Sure you might see 15 volts but how many amps? That is where most are deficient. Put it on a real charger like a Battery Tender brand. That way it's fully topped off...

Pull the oil dipstick and smell for fuel. You need air, fuel, spark at correct time and compression.

Any dope be it oil, anti-sneeze or what-have-you will lower your final torque value. So lubed up will require less torque.

20+ year old machine here. If they have a sandy soil, for sure all pulleys are shot.

Lower amp rate the better for battery longevity. Quick chargers with a ton of amps are battery killers.

If under cranking the battery falls under 10.5 volts DC, she either needs charged or replaced. Assuming terminals/cables are clean and tight. Load test the battery for free at any local auto parts store.

You've never read mower batteries offer 1000 cranks. If so it was a battery commercial. Typically last from 3 minutes to roughly 3 years. Nothing set in stone. Most people leave them outside in sub freezing weather over winter. No Battery Tender applied. Best in the winter, pull the...

Band-Aid only. Fix the real problem.

Is this a setup post? Really have to ask that question? If you just want to chit-chat then visit your local nursing home. Those good folks will appreciate it.

If the new belt is wider then the old one is worn, guessing from my keyboard. If you've wore it down that far then the pulleys are suspect too.

To me there is too much slack in the belt. Maybe some Honda experts will chime in. You'd have to look at your parts list and see what all is involved. Then say tug on the belt and see if she slips. Did you use an OEM Honda belt or something off Scamazon?

Scamazon has them for 25 bucks delivered to your door. No deck tipping required.

20+ years old. Maybe time for pulleys. Belt and cable got her going for a touch. Or your cable is not set proper??

Or Drain the oil and fuel if you want to tip it over. Only talking about 18 ounces of oil and Hence draining the oil and fuel.

Let's seal the valve cover first before the second stage booster is installed. :D By all means, if a real gasket is offered, use it. Stay clear of RTV if at all possible. Think of the next guy that has to pull that cover off, and CLEAN it all up.

Doesn't help the OP much but this is the main reason why I will never have a hydro mower. Belt drive system is way cheaper, lighter and takes less HP to operate. Oh and way faster getting the mower back in service doing driveline repairs like this. Mower shop will have a hydro drive for 3 months...

Or Drain the oil and fuel if you want to tip it over. Only talking about 18 ounces of oil and fuel. So much easier restarting once you are done say sharpening the blade or oil changes. Doesn't foul the plug out either. Probably needs an oil change and fresh fuel anyway.

Fishing scales. Easy right?

If you can't buy it, make it. Shop grinder and maybe a welder.

OEM belts or wonder brand of the week?

Mower carbs work like a toilet. Flip the carb over. Float should shut off the fuel flow into the bowl. Take a hand pump and put vacuum on the carb needle at 7pst for 30+ mins. Hook pump hose to the fuel inlet tube on carb body. Or youtube carb pressure testing. Several good videos out there. One...

Could be coil and or plug. Could be a counterfeit plug in that hole. See if you have over say 5k Ohms on the fouled plug.

Just wanted to say hi. 13 pages for a tire leak is pretty gundy.

Not if the blade bolt is tight. All that should tighten when you overtorque the blade bolt with your impact gun. Bolt only needs a rough value of 35 ft lbs.