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You may be happier with a Self Propelled 20-22" push Mower

You may be happier with a Self Propelled 20-22" walk behind Mower for that small lawn.

You may be happier with a Self Propelled 20-22"

Compression Release only affects compression when starting. Change your Fuel and Air Filter, then drain Float bowl. You may need to remove emulsion tube and clean out all jets.

You may be happier with a Self Propelled 20-22" walk behind mower. That is quite a tiny lawn and good exercise.

The FINAL ANSWER. Thanks Mark.

Mow when the grass is dry and humidity below 47%

He is referring to an electric mower. One speed.

Be sure that the belt is the correct WIDTH as well as length. I just restored a LA125. Belts also wore through the guards. I pop riveted a piece of SS on the outside. Some shields had a metal pin in them to stop this. The squawk might be from the Clutch. Try the old PTO cable if you still...

Sell the E mower.

Remove Fuel tank Cap and fuel line at filter. Blow back the line carefully with minimum pressure. Do this outside, off the driveway and don't be looking in the tank while you do it. Then blow the other direction using low pressure. If fuel flows OK, continue to removing Float bowl and be...

Disconnect the present Battery and try a known Good Battery. Engage Parking Brake, handles in Start Position. Then start checking safety switches. No stuck plunger etc. Check Battery Ground to Frame.

I suggest you take it to a repair shop and ask them or have them do it if possible.

Likely a 42" deck with 2 Blades.

I suspect one of the spindles is seized a bit and/or Belt is too loose. Get it up in the air and with Blade rotation OFF, reach under and see if they rotate with equal ease. Sorry for your luck. Check what was done on last service call and get your BF to man up.

No.

It isn't a Reactor. A couple swipes on the bench grinder Coarse side and done. No need for razor sharpness which will dull quickly. Balance if you can.

10W30 tends to be lower viscosity when cold. Other than that Advantage, Use it in any mower.

Use 10 or 20W 30. No big deal. Event Closed.

Your mower will not know the difference between Synthetic and Real.

Thats a bargain.

Engage the Parking Brake and flip seat back. + to +. Do NOT jump with a vehicle with the vehicles engine Running. Catastrophic failure of your Mower Stator can result.

An old filter from a Coffee Maker will also work. ALWAYS filter the fuel. Some Funnels have an integral screen.

Attach the Ground cable to the mower frame and the + cable to the Solenoid.post that does NOT connect to the Battery. Key start should then work.

Sounds like you should hire a Lawn Care Service.

Check for a DOM (Date of Manufacture) on the Identity plate. They run the numbers together!

Take it back to the Dealer

The Cup and Cone LM numbers are Timken tapered Roller Bearing Numbers. I worked in the St. Thomas Ontario plant in the '60's grinding the OD of Cones. 3,600 per shift, one at a time!

The Cup and Cone LM numbers are Timken tapered Roller Bearing Numbers. I worked in the St. Thomas Ontario plant in the '60's grinding the OD of Cones. 3,600 per shift, one at a time!

Buy a new F'ing tire!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Trade it in on a Bush Hog attachment.

Put them back in, opposite cylinders. Dark one is normal colour and no carbon buildup. Pull off the plug wire on the darkened plug side and see if it still runs. I suspect coil problems on the like new side.

So much wasted time here on a slow leak. Do the Hanes Test. Take your wifes or Girlfriends nylons and wipe it around the inside of the tire. If it does not catch on anything you're good. If it does remove the foreign object. Then buy and install a tube. Get help if you have not done this...

Put 20 PSI in the tire and spray with Windshield Washer Fluid or soapy water. Sit it in the Laundry Tub for longer soaks.

Spray some WD down around the button then check under hood to make sure the connector is on tightly

I was told 3 companies make all the Oil Filters, just paint them differently.

Your description indicates that it is running in a lean condition. Try giving it a small bit of Choke. If that cures it, then you need a carb /cleanout/rebuild, perhaps opening up the main jet beneath the Emulsion Tube a tiny bit. Remove hose at filter and Run some Carb Cleaner directly into...

IMHO, far too much force on the arbour. Use a big vise with 5/8" rod vertical.

Never lend your tools, vehicles or wife. That must have been some rain!

Well done sir.

Don't overthink this. Run it for 30 minutes and note any changes. Clear Crankcase vent tube. Oil at correct level? Ring Dia appears correct. 0.004" per inch of bore is nominal. Did you stagger the ring ends 120°? They must NOT be aligned. Re torque head bolts when Cold. Not worth...

Check for CrankCase Vent FIRST.

I am not familiar with this engine. Is it Liquid cooled? If not, perhaps you have some water in the fuel. Do a compression check or Pressure test the Crankcase.

Shops have NOT relined Brake shoes or Clutch discs in over 60 years!. Buy some rivets from perhaps a shoe repair place or just use countersunk pop rivets. You could try crazy glue. Clamp pieces in vise after application.

Glad you got it to rotate. Keep an eye on the oil level after you run it.

Since you don't know enough about Diesel or other engines (they don't have a Carb) best to buy one if you must have a Diesel or use what you have. Oversize Rings??????????? uh no.

High tension lead from coil is likely faulty. Replace coil and wire. You should check compression first.