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Sounds the goods BUT the specifications are a bit suss - "Ignition Mode - Electric Ignition" something lost in translation? :devilish: Personally I would prefer liquid cooled for best performance, longevity and possibly quieter running.

In Australia, The vast majority of contract/local government, grass cutting, is done using diesel powered mowers (most over 25 hp). Emergency & remote power supply electricity generators, over about 7 Kw, are diesel Dedicated fire fighting pumps are for the most part diesel (being less...

Try to remember - the USA is NOT the centre of the known universe. In my part of the World turbo diesel vehicles from around 1.6 - 3.5L are very popular and have been so for very many years. Light commercials (2.2 - 3.5L Ford, Issuzu, Toyota, Mazda, VW, MB, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Photon, LDV...

Diesels vary just like petrols. In general they are likly to have a longer stroke, than petrol & deliver torque at lower rpm. Not a diesel expert but am aware that diesels that rev over about 1700 rpm are considered high speed. Big trucks are loping along at under 1500 rpm. Small vehicles (cars...

Slomo - try comparing similar capacity/ roles with similar - when did you last check out a petrol "18 wheeler truck" "We both know, any non turbo Diesel is a dog." If it's a "dog" , a 300D (non turbo) cruising economically at 100 mph may be a greyhound. Horses for courses - want a sports car...

Had a W123 240D, 3 x W123 300D's and a W116 240D - LOOOVE diesel. While the naturally aspirated variants are very sloooow to accelerate - man do they just keep going! 160 kph, noooo problemo! and as solid on the road at that speed, as they are at 60 kph. One of my 300Ds was a station wagon 5...

Not a good idea - while it might be possible to get it to run (after much costly effort) it will not run for long. Diesel engines are designed, from the start, to accommodate much higher compression (needed for spontaneous ignition) and what is essentially a life of pre ignition, that would...

No! A rich fuel air mixture will cool the engine. It will also carbon/soot up the plug(s). One of the most common causes of a hot/cold engine indication, is a faulty thermocouple/sensor. As you have two (engine/transmission) is it possible to swap them around and see if they are consistent in...

In my very limited experience overheating is usually: Lack of cooling - As this is an aircooled engine, something restricting air flow. Running lean - carburettor not delivering the correct amount of fuel for the air : fuel ratio - something restricting fuel flow - "gunked" up jet or similar

I would suggest that the transmission oil temperature is low and the engine is now about right. In general - oils are engineered to be most efficient in the 95 -110 C continuous range and suffer no ill effects if they peak, for a short time, up to 130C. The rise in engine oil temperature could...

When you purchase an engine/mower manufactures oil, you are not just getting any old oil. As with all OM part, you are getting a degree of quality assurance that the equipment manufacturer must stand by. The assurance, branding & marketing cost money. The manufactures naturally seeks to...

Do you mean ZDDP - Zinc in oil?

Not suggesting you are pushing/exploring the limits MMM, just pointing out a, well documented, feature of human behaviour (particularly common in the male of the species). Without visiting your "block" no one, other than yourself, can make judgement calls on safety - I just hoped to expand...

In my, limited, experience mowers of the; Mini tractor configuration, tend towards having a quite narrow track (until you get the the real tractors ) which of course makes them less stable on slopes. Zero turn more often have a wide track, however the castering front wheels also tend towards...

Please to meet you. I am a agriculturist, jake-of-all-trades-master of none. My first ride on, named "Wallace & Gromit" (W&G) with a B&S 14hp, homemade Armstrong starter (12v one RS), driving a manual gearbox and a slasher style cutter deck. She was a hybrid, made out of three mowers, gifted to...

Sorry, Must have missed page 19 advise, in my quick skim through the Op Manual. I agree with your comments on turning. However, as I mentioned, turning on a slope has risks either way. "I have read advice elsewhere to avoid weights to the front as it reduces traction when going downhill." This...

Have a large industrial zero turn, that uses "tillers" to control power to the rear wheels, speed & direction. I checked out a photo of your Cub Cadet ZTS1. Veeeeery nice! Does the steering wheel actual move the front wheels ie is it connected? If it does you, will have much better/safer...

Mowing 10 acres?????? - get an automatic lawn mower - They usually come with 4 feet

Check out what I wrote, for your answer 😈

I used to remove my engine air shrounds every year - now every second year. This change is due to using compressed air after every mowing - I found it to be so effective that when I removed the shroud annually, there was little if anything to clean. It's not just the engine that gets an air...

If you have consistent oil temperature above 110C, peaks, under load/ dust chaff build up/very hot day, may be much higher - I would consult with the oil manufactures technical advisor. It may be that the oil is good to 120C plus - equally it may be better that the oil runs somewhere between 95...

You have my admiration Slomo - you realy look after your mowers(s). Some points; I doubt a backpack or any "leaf" style blower will come close to a more focused high pressure air blast from a compressor. Many "throttle" style cables will be damaged by adding lubrication - you need to know if...

$367 will likly purchase a compressor and air gun, good enough to air- bast clean your mower and pump up your tyres. Probably last quite a few years of use - may be a better investment than a fancy can of graphite 😈

Tad off topic, sorry - Motorcycles (or any engine) with integrated gear box or using the same oil in gearbox as crankcase should, in general , not use friction (zinc?) modified oils. I am not sure about your MC/diesel oils commonality being zinc - I will investigate. Zinc seems to be a...

Not usually a problem in Australia, unless you live in the high country or Tasmania 😈

Friend - I am against washing of any mower (perhaps once in many years is okay) I use compressed air to clean my mower after every use. Reasons; Grass, (particularly when wet) ferments/rots and produces a highly corrosive liquid. The liquid loves aluminium alloy spindle housing and cutter...

Two years ago (In Australia), I had a nice little trade going, in refurbished mowers, generators, compressors & brush cutters. Completely dried up. No one wants an old machine, no matter how well it runs/does the job. I think it's a combination of the "throw away" generation and oddly a down...

So how do they vary hp & torque?

Filter efficiency increases (gets better) to the point where they start to create excessive blockage/restriction. I guess its a judgement thing but I only clean my filters once per year avoid cutting low (min 100mm) so less dust - never had an air filter come close to blocking. My immediate...

My mistake - as far as I know all oils sold in Australia are number (30) followed by W - we don't have much call for winter fuels/oils.

Thanks - that I understand. So, in your engine example, Kohler CV18-20-22, the removal of the screw/butterfly stop, will allow the engine to deliver more power/torque under load (rpm dropping) it should not change the governed set speed (unless further modification done). It would seem that...

Potholes - just another navigation hazard. As for oil changes - These days my small equipment is lucky to do 50 hr/annum, so I just do an annual oil change/service, filter every second year. Tractor etc gets the oil/filter annually. Fuel filters are replaced "on condition" ie when unable to...

You have the advantage on me - I don't follow. Why have a screw limiter, when the governor achieves the same 50% limit on rpm? In my limited understanding, most governors work on engine rpm - not power, ergo a power increase (more fuel) does not change the governed engine speed.??

Hi StarTech, Detergents in oil - Wow! that takes me back to my youth when this was a hot topic. It's been so many years since this debate, that I doubt you could find a regular oil that did not have detergent. In my youth the debate centered around using oils for diesel engines in petrol...

"The catch is you also had to reset te static governor setting" Please explain - I would have thought the governor would have maintained/restricted the engine to the same rpm????

Ha Ha!! Small World. Yes! those in the know, use that shortcut - The Oaks to Penrith speed limits, are now down from 100 to 80 kph, as is the Penrith to Windsor road, which makes the route less attractive than before. Probably due to all the development in the area increasing the commuter traffic.

Hi Oz, Depending on your perspective just up (as in North) or down (as in lower elevation) than you. The Oaks

Thanks Ilengine. I am aware that B&S have a restriction in some of their carburettor/inlet manifold (extra large gasket) as a method of derating the engine. I thought my Kwaka might have something similar and or a diffrent crankshaft profile. Can't imagine timing would be a common choice but...

Thanks for that Oz. I have been operating/maintaining and repairing small engines for a bit over 50 years. I find it's often worthwhile reviewing my oil choices, as I am now. SA 30W (Mono) straight mineral had been my go to oil for most of this time. Penrite has been the main supplier however...

Thanks GearHead, As you probably know, the engine (Kawasaki FX651V) oil recommendations are pretty vague. I could use a straight, mineral, SAE 30W or a multigrade SAE 10W- (30)40. My local mower shop is recommending the multigrade, going one step further and suggesting it be a synthetic (most of...

In my short life, I have always understood that oils (transmission/engine) have an optimum operating temperature range. Overcooling is no more beneficial than overheating. Cooler oil does not perform/protect your engine any better than optimum temperature oil. Cooler oil will cost hp/more...

Yes! I realise this topic may have been discussed to death already but recommendations seem to change over time so I thought why not give it another go. I live in Australia - climate range can go from 0C (rarely) - 47C (also rare). Mowing range mostly 21- 40C (grass growing). In my small...

Kawasaki FX 651 V has two siblings, the 691 & the 730 All three share the same engine capacity 626 cc (44.3 cu in), Compression 8.2:1, Stroke 78X76mm, weight, oil capacity, however manage deliver different outputs at the same 3600 RPM; 651 Maximum Power 20.5 hp (15.3 kW) at 3,600 RPM Maximum...

After about 2 hrs mowing there are no problems.

Update; Engine starts & runs very nicely. Have managed to increase no load speed to 3300 rpm. Will get some feedback from him after he uses it.

Thanks for that advice/observation - been torquing to "wrist click" will now get the torque wrench out. Advice on idle spring static setting would be much appreciated. Thanks

Update! Opened the B&S - governor mechanism in bottom of engine - evidence of overspeed. Cleaned all the debris using a magnet. Could not find any other damage. Replaced governor mechanism using parts from another dead engine (same series). Reassembled - hope to start tomorrow - wish me luck.

Video the best advice/information I have seen to date. My thanks

Hi MParr, That was the video I saw before attempting to get a little more no load rpm. Thought I had done it with an increase from 3000 - 3300 rpm. Dont know what happened after that - was messing with the springs. Anyhow I noticed that the governor shaft had rotated 1 flat (It's got a hex end...

Care to guide me to: