Search results

I've got it up to 3550 (no load) by my tach. I'm still puzzled why I'm limited RPMs after new rings installed. Valves were lapped and set during reassemble.

Thanks for that. I'm leaning toward me not getting the linkage right.

I will check the valves and spray the exhaust today.

'a weak combustion problem' ? What does that mean ? I'm not new to this but that term is new.

I have been mowing to break-in the rings and haven't got enough time (2 hrs) to change oil yet. I have checked the firing on both cylinders, though not under a load.

I only want the rpm's up more than 3450 . 3600 would be good if I can get it there with adjustments.

fs651v-DS07-R I'm just trying to get a little more top end. It was showing 3600 on the machine's tach before I replaced wore out rings. Now it shows 3250 RPM. I can definitely tell the difference mowing.

Yes, it's 1/4" from touching with throttle wide open. I tried moving throttle cable to limit screw and after I pull lever down then back up, it's not touching again. ??

I tried the governor adjustment by the book. I'm evidently doing something wrong. I have the same problem. I hold the gov. arm and throttle lever on carb while tightening and throttle is wide open. When I start the engine and go to WOT, the gov. is pulling back from being full throttle. I still...

Thank you very much for enlightening me on this 'new to me' type governor arm. I have this manual downloaded already but had not read thoroughly enough. I'll try to adjust this today.

I have just rebuilt this Kawi FS651V and all test good except I can't figure out the high idle on this engine. I have rebuilt a few FH engines and they are different. The governor arm has a link attached to it where the linkage connects.?? Moving the plate did not effect the RPMs. Adjusting...

Thank you, txmowman, for all your advice !

I checked the surging at mid-throttle and added half choke and it did smooth out. I can live with that. Will the blackened oil (less than 4 hrs old) hurt anything to leave for a few more hours of break-in ?

The original Nikki carb was corroded,pitted and throttle shaft was altered by PO (looked like hacksaw was used). I 'tried' adjusting pilot screws at idle. I didn't count turns(?), just tuned by ear for best/highest idle. It made no difference above idle.

the problem is mainly acceleration. It will bog down and die shoving it home under no load. If I'm easy on the throttle, it doesn't stumble. Under a load, with PTO on, it seems fine.

I'll check that out tomorrow. It doesn't seem as bad under a load. It sounds smooth a WOT.

txmowman, you seem to be knowledgable,I have one other question. Once i cleared vent tube, I started it up and still have a throttle problem, not related to crankcase pressure (I hope). When I try to Rev it up, it stalls around mid-throttle. If I ease it up, it seems OK but will surge at...

I pulled the breather, discarded the oily filter, and found port to the carb tube to be stopped up. ?? I used a good spare crankcase during rebuild that was sitting around. I'm assuming a dirtdobber nested in that port.? All seems normal with vent now. Thanks txmowman !

Thanks for that, txmowman. that makes sense. I also noticed it was slow to pour oil down dip stick chute. It would fill tube and sort of burp back. Is the breather filter necessary? I saw that new kit has none.

I've rebuilt this engine with all new internals, including crankshaft, new. I reused the heads and bought aftermarket carb. The PO had hacked the old Nikki carb. It fired up initially and for 4 hours breaking in rings, it ran perfect. I noticed oil leaking around drain plug and replaced O ring...

Thank you, Star Tech. That's what I saw in the manual also, just needed assurance.

I ordered a rebuild kit and OEM rings had no markings on upper rings, as expected. I've read forums/ threads and most mention beveled rings in top groove. According to the manual, beveled rings are on second groove, bevel side down. Can someone set me straight on this ?

Surprisingly, the pistons/cylinders were not scored and measured within spec for standard rings. I haven't measured the camshaft, yet. I also like the FH engine and would like to have revived it but, still have the question about the correct bushing.

That IS bad news since I've ordered a new crankshaft.(it was scored bad also) I assume I can send it back, the cost of a new crankcase makes a rebuild not reasonable.?? They quit making the FH, I've heard.

I just purchased an old Scag Cub with intentions of rebuilding the Kawasaki engine. It has a replaceable bushing in the crankcase that definitely needs replaced. I have read all forums concerning this particular engine and bushing numbers for replacement is not easily found. I read where...

It cranks and starts fine when I jump the solenoid. I'm still tracing the wiring problem.

Mine is STT52A-25CH / 6700284 with solenoid attached to starter.

I have full battery voltage (12.8V) in start position on green/white wire from the relay to the engine connector. I see it there until I touch it to the tab on solenoid.

I have changed out the solenoid and it made no difference. What I don't understand, when I connect the trigger wire to the solenoid, it grounds out immediately.?? BTW - I've also changed the wallowed out ignition switch.

Thanks, Bertrrr. Could that be what's killing the battery voltage when I attach the trigger wire ? Even though I can jump the solenoid and start it ?

The first part I replaced was the start relay. It was a used part I had and assumed was good. Key switch was OEM. Solenoid was not.

I tried jumper wire from harness to solenoid again and I lose power when I connect to the tab. ?? It's like it grounds out when I touch 12V to it. I changed the solenoid back to the old one and got the same results.

I tried that and was surprised that I got no results. I will try again today with better wire connection.

I have 12.8V from the switch through the ignition relay to the engine pigtail. That's where it ends.

Scag STT52A-CH25 has been starting for months after several attempts turning key to start. Now I can't get it to start without jumping the solenoid. I've replaced the ignition switch, ign. relay, and solenoid. I get full (12.8V) battery voltage, with key on start position, on green/white wire...

It's not the cost of fuses that worries me. IF I can get the 12V to stay on long enough to find the wire, what do I do with the 12V wire ? Ground it ?

Star Tech, if I knew more about the gounding system, I would continue myself and not bother you any further. I'm at a loss not knowing and would like to know how to test for the 12V without blowing fuses. I do appreciate your input.

I was trying to figure it out myself but I still don't understand how the grounding system works. I toned the Pink wire just to make sure it was going to the parking brake. The tone wouldn't run on the grounded wire until I released the brake. I assumed a wire past that switch had it grounded. I...

When I got to the part about grounding the red wire at the seat switch is when I noticed I had 2 red wires. That part was most confusing of all. How does that switch work if disconnected ? And is it necessary after disconnecting module ? I disconnected the interlock module turned key ON, blew...

Star Tech, I got my seat switch in and started my rewiring of the Scag. I read thoroughly and when I got to the seat switch part, I found I have 2 RED wires and a BROWN wire going to the switch. One red goes to hour meter and one red goes to the PTO switch. I had 12V on one of those red wires...

I'm sorry to seem too dense to comprehend your reply but, "means you do not (x) to be applying (x) to the ignition coil kill terminal", sounds like a word or two are missing in this statement.

Star Tech, One major question on my mind (yes, it's confusing), when you say "don't do this unless the circuit is converted to a grounding", what exactly determines that the circuit is grounding ? I'm assuming it's the rewiring of the PTO switch. ?? I just want to have this part straight in my...

I have ordered the seat switch with bracket. I won't expect it within a week (hopefully sooner) but I most probably will be back here with questions and to let you know how it works out. Thank you for your input, Star Tech.

Thank you for those instructions. I will study the wiring to familiarize myself thoroughly before snipping. BTW, the PO also removed the seat switch and connected the wires together. I'll have to replace the switch and plug.

I have verified that all safety switches are good. Looking at the diagram for a 5 pole relay, it shows that the terminal the green/black wire attached to is (or should be) grounded. I have the relay grounded. All this is very confusing to me but I would like to get the safety features working.

Thanks for your reply. I have this diagram. Not the switch make/break table. All seems to be wired correctly with Green wire from switch to relay HOT when key to start. I don't understand how it gets to the Green/White (stripe) wire going to the engine harness. If I ground Green/Black (stripe)...

This is 2002 Tiger Cub STC 48A 20CV s# 7640064. I had to dig for the wiring diagrams I have. The manual diagram isn't much help.

Hey Folks, I'm back to working on my Tiger Cub I rebuilt last summer. I posted questions in September about rewiring because of PO rigged the wired and did away with all safety switches. I'm still trying to figure out how the safeties all work through the harness. Today's question is ...does...

Thanks for your replies. I considered riveting myself but I noticed it wasn't common rivets.