Search results

Hi firhill, You need a 12V test light to check for power to the fuel after-fire solenoid wire, not all of the bowl solenoids click very loudly. Next verify the lines were connected correctly to the fuel pump. It is easy to get them mixed up. The line coming from the block to the pump only...

Hello MParr, All fuel is inherently "dirty", and the fuel filter needs to be replaced to minimize this fine sediment "sludge" from reaching the carburetor and clogging up passages. A fuel filter is cheap insurance to prevent more serious problems. The more hours a machine is used, the more...

Parts tree is a pretty good source, but make sure you have the correct model or spec number. I will say at least many of the old ones still have parts available. Good luck with your project.

Haul it to the dealer and let it be their headache.

Are you getting your non-Ethanol fuel from a dedicated pump with its own service hose? (My local stations have dedicated pumps for only Ethanol.) Or, from a "pick the fuel" style pump with only one service hose? There is a difference. Valve adjustment does effect fuel efficiency. Black smoke...

Maybe this will help: https://www.partstree.com/models/143-026202-craftsman-engine-made-by-tecumseh/engine-parts-list-lev-pg1-0/

Someone with a good MIG welder, a grinder and a little fabricating knowledge could rebuild the spindle mounting areas with replacement metal and then treat with OSFO and some spot painting. Another junk spare deck usually makes a perfect donor for the needed metal segments.

You don't remove the dipstick and cap while running. These are not like a car engine. Inside the crankcase there is oil and air constantly being "slung around" while running . It is known as windage and often referred to as splash lubrication. The moving parts inside the engine rely on this...

Hello Miles1, Are you using E-10 fuel or non-Ethanol? E-10 does not burn as efficiently. Is the blade sharp? A dull blade makes the engine work harder. They don't put cheap blades on these. How tall and thick is the grass being cut. Are you operating the mower yourself or a slow-moving kid...

Hello Hayward51, If this engine were on a generator, the exact high idle setting would be critical to maintain the needed 3600 RPM to and keep the generator steady at 60Hz output. On a rider the difference of 50 RPM is not an issue. Also consider that the engine is still breaking in new...

Hello Star Tech, The variety of equipment has become so vast that I stock very few parts on hand. The old days of common stock parts have passed. I get what I can local, but a majority of my parts are ordered online these days. Even the dealers have reduced their parts stock tremendously. In...

Hello MParr, I will add to that by saying remove the top flywheel cover at least once a season to get any trapped debris out or mouse nests. Mice love tiny areas where they can crawl in and make a cozy nest, especially in the winter months. Baling twine, acorn shells, grass clippings and...

No shortcuts here. Pull the engine and get the loose parts out. Hopefully there is no internal damage. If you are not a mechanic, this is not a time to start trying to be one. Maybe looking around for an independent small engine repair shop would be best. I don't suggest the dealer because they...

What machine is this engine on?

Price a new rider and you will be inclined to replace the engine on what you have. Just my humble opinion. I have purchased a number of good used engines on Ebay. You have to make sure you ask a lot of questions. If they cannot provide intelligent answers, walk away. You will need to know the...

I consider this fortunate. I also recommend you get a can of seafoam or Chemtool B-12 pour in cleaner and put a couple of cap fulls in the tank with fresh fuel. That will help gently clean any resin deposits left behind.

Are the blades all installed the same, or is one upside down? I've seen it happen before. Also, all of the blades should be identical. It's easy to get a set of mixed size blades when purchased (loose on the shelf) at the box stores.

https://www.partswarehouse.com/MTD-Kit-Service-Trans-MTD-753-06608-p/MTD-753-06608.htm?Click=765611&msclkid=b50b960e94c510d6158afe4470f8742d&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Bing%20Standard%20Shopping&utm_term=4580771612740089&utm_content=Adgroup

Disconnect the coil kill wire on each coil and see if the engine now runs on both cylinders. The engine can be shut down by the after-fire solenoid on the carburetor, when the key is turned off. If it does run fine disconnected, the kill wire harness has a bad inline diode for one of the coils...

Honda got out of the mower business a couple of years ago and are now just depleting remaining stock. Here is a video with lots of info: https://www.bing.com/videos/riverview/relatedvideo?q=Honda+HR217&mid=84E68E05B18393E9200E84E68E05B18393E9200E&FORM=VIRE

Thanks, Srubcadet10 I've gotten so used to operator's manuals not having diagram information, that I did not think to check that online. I did narrow the problem down late yesterday evening by manipulating the ignition switch housing once it was removed from the right operator's console...

I have this CC Z Force that has no power to the anti-backfire solenoid with key turned on. Solenoid tests good when powered manually. Mower Model number 53AA5A7M710 w/ the Briggs & Stratton engine. Engine runs but only with full choke on to suck fuel past the solenoid plunger tip. Carburetor...

Like StarTech said, these are already filled with a 00 grease and do not require any maintenance unless they break for some reason.

Check the input drive pulley. Likely it has hammered the center splines and is now loose on the shaft. It may need the shaft replaced which will require teardown.

Switch the wires on the two small terminals, may possibly work, if not, then switch them back. From what you described happening, there has been a ground switched over or possibly not connected for the harness.

Look up Bohls Bearing in San Antonio TX, they can match anything you have if you provide a sample. I've used them for years to come up with odd bearings for all kinds of equipment.

If it is what I think it is, that is a reverse implement cutout switch. That is there so the deck PTO shuts off whenever putting the mower in reverse. If you have a starter relay with 2 small wires, try switching them with each other, then try to start the mower like normal.

Yea, this mower is around 25 years old, so stuff like this happens if they are still going all this time.

Check for a broken, loose or dirty ground in the harness. Often times a relay will function the opposite way if it is not getting a proper ground. This has an opposite operational effect on the circuits.

Just keep in mind that Voltage is potential and Amperage is power. A battery can read 12 Volts on a meter but still not have enough Amperage to do the job of cranking the engine over. If you have to crank it for extended periods of time to get it started, it may be wearing the battery and...

The end opposite of where the starter is bolted to the engine/ transmission. The starter motor brushes are located inside. Be "firm but gentle" when you tap on the starter motor.

The end opposite of where the starter is bolted to the engine/ transmission. The starter motor brushes are located inside. Be "firm but gentle" when you tap on the starter motor.

I use Berryman Chemtool B-12 along with an old toothbrush. Spray the parts and inspect them carefully. The anti-backfire solenoid gets sticky from fuel breaking down. The additives in the fuel gradually turn to a sticky shellac. No need to "soak" parts, just clean them well. Another often...

Hello neighborbill, To add to what Tiger said, Check for any rusty connections. They can be tight and "look good" but rust will not conduct enough battery power, especially when placed under a heavy load like a starter trying to turn the engine. Battery cable crimp areas are another issue to...

This is a Korean/ Asian import that "roadside" overnight tractor/ machine dealers were dumping into the American homeowner DIY markets. I'm not sure the company is still in business, or they were purchased by an umbrella compact equipment company.

This is a Korean import that "roadside" overnight tractor/ machine dealers were dumping into the American homeowner DIY markets. I'm not sure the company is still in business, or they were purchased by an umbrella compact equipment company.

Replace filters and blow air cleaner out or replace it

Try Sears parts direct.com

I don't think anyone is monitoring this site or reading the complaints. They have no contact information. They left the light on and went on a long vacation.

When it does that lightly tap on the tail end side of the starter with a small hammer and see if it starts cranking. If it does the brushes are sticking from dust. It may work for a while consistently after that.

Sounds like the tensioner and stationary idler along with the belt need to be changed. Remove the deck and raise the mower up to check all the drive components out.

Is that a pull behind finish mower with a rear curtain? Or is it a side exit chute model? A picture would help. Just on an initial thought... A section of round baler belt & some flat washers and 5/16 or 3/8 self-tap screws work well for making a chute choke on many decks.

Not surprising. Many people on this site ask for help and automatically think we are standing right there looking at their machine.

Sounds like the fuel anti backfire solenoid is not working on the bottom of the carburetor bowl. They tend to get sticky and act up.

It's a V-twin

Think about getting a pull behind sweeper with a catch hopper.

The Briggs and Stratton 695666 is a very good one rated at 30 Micron.

Very interesting. What engines are on these and are they designed to have a starter mounted? https://www.tractordata.com/lawn-tractors/002/9/7/2976-lennox-kittytrack-600.html

The high speed setting needs to be adjusted?

It helps to know a little more about what machine you are working on and need help with. Crystal ball is in the shop and my telepathic powers are failing me. LOL Here is a generic approach that may work without having to remove the engine, just loosen it.... Loosen the engine bolts enough to...