Search results

I have a Sabre 1742 as a backup, but it breaks more than my cub.

I have a 1980's Cub Cadet 782. I'd recommend the OP find an older tractor like mine, and it will last if cared for.

Where are you located?

So you know lake effect too... I lived in the flight path to Griffiss AFB. Also in the lake Ontario lake effect area. 55 years of that was enough! But yeah do what works for you. I have a station that sells a lot of non-ethanol fuel to the boaters in the Chesapeake Bay, and they are 5 miles...

Bill, where in NY are you at? I'm from Lee Center in Oneida County. After years of fighting with snowmobile carbs, I started using non-ethanol fuel and stabilizer with a splash of MMO in my fuel can. I've had good luck even now that I live on the Delmarva Peninsula in Maryland. I'd say if you...

I had that problem with my Sabre earlier this season. Clean the tank, replace the filters and at least check the float bowl. I used clear line so I could see the fuel.

My mower has that same trouble. The linkage under the shroud gets sticky, and I have intermittent stalls. What a pain, but a little sleuthing found the issue.

Be Bert, I have a question about oil. Is it true that synthetic is actually dino oil broken down and re-mixed with any additives also added at that time? I heard that somewhere, but can't remember where. It makes sense, because that is how milk is processed. Break it down, and put it back...

I find SAE30 HD at Walmart. It is with the lawnmower stuff. Not hard to find if you take your time and look. Just check the label to be sure it isn't non-detergent.

Feather meal actually smells worse. But fish meal is the absolute worst!

They also use Blood meal, feather meal, pork meat and bone meal...

The oil is extracted. The meal is probably just leftovers from the process. As is the case witn many feed ingredients.

Canola meal is used in cattle feed.

Richard Ehrenberg SAE from Mopar Action magazine says the same thing... Walmart oil. I use it in my Cub 782

It's the 666 in the product number.

A Absolutely makes sense , but I seldom see 20w50 recommendations on new equipment. Must be that particular engine runs hotter? Or larger tolerances?

Hey Bert, thanks for the facts on oil. I was beginning to question my use of straight 30 weight in my Cub Cadet 782. It uses a little every other mow, ( approx 3HR) but I will continue what I was doing... But isn't 20w50 a bit heavy for a mower? I'm really curious as to why they would recommend...

Are there other recommendations for cooler climates? Seems a bit heavy for a lawn mower.

I'm not trying to be a jerk, but when 3 or 4 people give someone crap, it begins to seem like a lecture. It seems to happen to quite a few newbies. I'm not pointing at anyone in particular, just don't add another long post putting them down because they bought something you may not approve of...

That may be true, but why does everyone who asks for help get a lecture if they don't know what info to give, or make some other mistake? Trust me, I've seen some of the idiots who have been annoying, but the OP on this thread doesn't deserve the lecture. Save the meanness for those who earn it...

OP only wanted to know what fell off the mower, not a lecture. I love this site, but it sucks listening to people get berated over simple stuff. Not everyone is a mechanic, and some of the people looking for help here may be the person one of us go to for one of our needs. Just have some...

Where are you located? 20w50 seems kind of heavy for the engine oil...

Well, that is physically impossible... But thanks for proving my point. I feel bad for the revolving door of your employees. I can imagine how you treat captives...

Did you open the carb and ensure no debris inside? Just a thought. If you did it already, sorry to waste your time...

Those units are known to strip the splined input shaft. Could that be part of the issue? I have a Sabre that happened to. Haven't had time to repair it yet.

I was going to suggest the same thing. I did it earlier this year.

I would like to add that some people while trying to help, should read all posts before replying. It would eliminate confusion, and make an easier read. Thank you.

Trust me,tere are many more than two...

Try Harbor freight. With a coupon, you can get a torque wrench for as little as $9.99. That wrench will work well.

I Had a similar issue on my Sabre. It turned out to be a disentegrating fuel cap debris. It took a couple cleanings,them new line and filter. I'd bet op has a similar issue.

I had the sme exact problem with a Sabre. Now she runs great! Clean the rubber bits out of the tank and fuel lines, and you should be good.

Sounds like we live in the same world, governed by Mr. Murphy and his damn law!

That formula is very close to my weed killer formula

A pellet mill? Similar to a feed pellet mill? Interesting project, have you ever run a pellet mill?

I'd put a one way valve on that setup in case of backfire under methane boost... That would give new meaning to the term "hot seat"!

11 years old? there was likely some wear, eh?

Through 4 pages, I've seen a lot of possibilities. I'd start with the simple stuff, blow out the fuel cap vent, drain tank and change fuel lines. If there is still a problem, you have a list of possibilities. Do what your skills allow.