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Ferris 48" Part No 5901740, B&S 23 Hp, Commercial Series, Model 44C777000 5 G1 Engine has developed a vibration, throughout rev range (deck not engaged) Work done: Armature gap within specification. Valve clearances, adjusted. Spark plugs cleaned & gaped - good spark. Fuel supply - good. Air &...

Fair comment

I was quite specific about engines fitted with a separate choke control V engines with a combined throttle/choke. I stand by my advice, for engines fitted with separate throttle/choke controls, to have the throttle closed or at most open a "smidgeon" for cold starts.Try it - you will get far...

I forgot to mention: If you inadvertently flood your engine. Do not keep cranking/ trying to start - this will just make the situation worse, overheat/damage your staring system and drain your battery Open the choke fully (choke button down/in all the way) Open throttle all the way. Place hand...

Don't know the engine but as an old fogy I would always recommend 1/2 the recommended oil change intervals, at least for the first two services. Use a straight 30W mineral oil initially and there after whatever you wish. All engines, particularly air cooled, depend on their oil for a lot of...

As a general principal, a carburetted engine should not be started with throttle advanced and choked at the same time - If your manual says to use throttle, only use very very little - fast idle position only. Many of the smaller, usually single cylinder engines, have throttle/choke on the one...

If its just a smear of oil I would not be too worried. Smoke on start up, that clears almost instantly may be oil or an over-rich/flood of petrol - check that you are going through the correct staring sequence, with throttle/choke settings as per operator manual. Most of my mowers - especially...

Added to Berts analysis above - this may be a sheared flywheel "key" - this may allow the fly wheel to move on the crankshaft, which in tern changes the ignition timing, causing backfiring and loss of power and quit possibly wont allow the engine to start/run at all.

Okay take a deep breath, this may take some time. The first thing is to be able to describe the "symptoms" so that we can have a chance at a diagnosis and remedy. This means you must try to get your terminology right - if you dont have the knowledge/background, to enable you to do this, get...

Slow cranking is most often a weak battery - try charging over night with quality multi stage charger, using a known good battery jump start, replacing battery. Could also be poor electrical connections - check all connections for security - pay special attention to earth/ground return. Note...

FYI - I do not wash my mowers. I use compressed air to blow them clean after every operation. I make a point of air blasting around the idling engine, through every opening I can find. I repeat this around the transaxle, deck & drive pulleys, chassis - when you know where the chaff tends to...

FYI - Opening the drain plug on the lower right side of the transmission only allows about 2/3 of the oil to drain. The remainder of the oil only came out when I removed the transmission front plate & "filter gasket". Note Take note of the position of the adjusting bolt cam on the bracket...

Well there you go - a throw away job! Well mine has had,what I would call a basic servic, in that the filter has been cleaned (would have replaced it it they were still available) and oil changed. The "boss" mowed the lawns last night with it and pronounced it as good as ever (high praise indeed)

No hour metre on my 212-H - she gets a thorough service (no short cuts) once very 12 months (more often if we have a great grass growing season)

Hi Bert, Transaxle oil changes - must confess I dont recall seeing this on the service schedule (have I missed it?) Another confession - in the 10 + years I have owned this mower, I have only changed the trans oil (30W) once and that was when she had a heart transplant (from Onan to B&S)...

I would not go so far as to say "solved" - thicker oil is probably just taking up the wear, so I would expect the problem to appear again. I really like this old mower, so hopefully have put off the next transmission problem for some time. As mower in great condition, I wonder (for the future)...

Good news! - As stated: Drained all the old 30W oil. Opened front end of transaxle (a lot more oil came out) found and removed "filter gasket". Cleaned filter ( new one not available in AU). Put everything back together as was. Refilled axle with a 15W-50 oil. Note: took a very long time for...

Thanks Bert - I should be able to find him from that.

I am about 35 minutes west of Camden, so Eagle Vale would not be a problem - are you allowed to give contact details? Fan good, cooling fins always kept clean. Mower meticulously blown clean, using high pressure air, after every use. Problem starts as soon as I move of forward. Reverse has...

Wow! have you been knighted yet Bertsmobile1? I will track down the Gates A-81. Haven't tried to push on a hill test but is certainly impossible to push on the flat. Currently have the front of the transaxle open, have cleaned the filter, (that wasn't supposed to be there according to the...

Your efforts are appreciated, my thanks. Cutting speed acceptable but not great and no option to increase for light cutting. Engine, B&S Intec 15.5 hp, replaced the warn out Onan, has been doing a great job for about 8 years. There was no problem in centering the crankshaft in the same...

Hi Rivets, Have already perused that web site - the very small/short trouble shooting guide, concentrates on complete failures . Makes no mention of a slow speed transmission. I have already listed everything that I have tried/inspected. Lay in bed last night and thought may be something has...

Hi, My terrific old Toro Wheel Horse 212-H, Model 3212 OE 03 (Fitted with Eaton 751 transaxle) has recently developed a worrying problem - its transport (top) speed has suddenly reduced to about the speed that I would cut the lawn at - no faster. Forward & reverse still work, with no...