Search results

Well the Needle / Seat in the carb bowl controls the fuel input, Maybe the float is sticking in the UP position not allowing fuel to flow- I know you swapped the carb but the problem still exists so I'd pull the carb and check the float assembly anyway

Is this a gravity fed carb ? If not you have a fuel pump in the system and needs to be swapped out, you've done everything I would have - Diaphram fuel pumps go out periodically - basically 2 check valves that can get trash in the seat of one or the other and no flow - I keep an electric fuel...

I ran across the same issue with a Honda engine, Never noticed fuel doin what your video shows, there are a number of gaskets on the Honda machine between the carb and intake - they're to be installed exactly right or some ports get covered up and may possibly cause what you're seeing there...

All these switches go to their own relay and I think they may be in a Series circuit but not for certain , switch them around and see if the problem moves with the relay or goes away - I seem to recall my machine died when the seat switch activated also

If it still runs , no need to pull the flywheel, squeeling sounds would be a pully or belt, will need more information on what kind of mower this is

It's designed to run at any speed you choose , the governor is set to keep it from over revving, you have to run it enough to let the charging system do it's job in keeping the battery up. I rarely run my machines more than 3/4 throttle - just don't see the advantage of running anything wide...

Yeah I was trying to figure out " chock" then got it, when I'm on my phone the friking autocorrect takes over sometimes and I'll end up going back to correct autocorrect again. Today's world

If it won't run without the choke , it's starving for fuel - Something is not letting the fuel get to the carb, start at the fuel tank / supply line etc and work your way back to carb bowl -

I got a new seat at Tractor Supply

I've never seen a burnt valve cause loud exhaust, if you have a burnt valve I don't think it would even run, you may try a different muffler - larger to quiet it down a bit, was it always loud? you may have an exhaust leak sort of bypassing the muffler

We went to Zero Turn about 10 yrs ago, will not go back to anything else , these are very nice and easy to manipulate around the yard. Mine is a Bad boy but I have worked on all brands, Kubota is not user friendly to maintain and very expensive - I would stay away from any brand that has fuel...

Fuel supply line issue , might be sucking air from clamp area or cracked hose , Run a new fuel line to a separate tank , bucket whatever and watch it run

Penetrating oil will not penetrate a stuck bolt , good to use after it begins to move into a rusted thread area but it will not help a stuck bolt begin to move

Always use a 6 point socket for these and when re installing add some grease or never seize to the threads That bolt is pretty much junk now so if you need to use a pipe wrench or something to remove not goin to hurt anything, warm up with a torch until cherry red and it will work loose for you

Well it's plastic, i've seen this before not much you can do but replace the worn parts, it does not have to run all the way up the handle - that's there for making it easy to reach etc.

Sounds like fuel spitting out of the combustion chamber is the first issue - Carburator flooding ? needle valve stuck etc. I'd start there, then chase down your ignition problem- If it was a safety relay , the starter wouldn't engage at all so that's probably not where your problem is Not...

Check your Kill solenoid under the Carb, this is what helps it shut off without backfiring.

I cant see any problem with it , there is no clutch to wear out as it's hydraulic driven and it's only a once in a while action.

There is a " stop " adjustment on most of these mowers, sounds like one of them is set different than the other , it limits the travel and causes this type of issue

In My opinion there is no such thing as Too Much Compression , never saw it in over 50 years on working on all sorts of machine

Don't fix anything that Aint Broke , good rule of thumb

There is a good video on U tube that shows how to test it If memory serves - the wires off the magneto under the flywheel should read close to 30-40 volts, off the voltage regulator something like 14-20 if I can find the link I'll post...

Use a magnifying Glass and look at the taper on the rings , inside taper goes up, outside down oil rings do not have any taper I'm aware of

I've been doing Mechanical work for 50 plus years and still reshearch things on Utube as well as on this site and am still learning some things - with the experience I have I can quickly weed out the BOZOs from the guys that actually know what they're talking about. I can see where someone...

Hard to say right now may be unrelated to the other problem - work them one at a time to isolate where it is coming from, sounds like something is working loose post what you find , good luck

Well if it runs good without the PTO engaged ,you need to look at the Deck , belt - idler Pullys but mainly the spindle bearings - if they get hot and start to seize the belt will start smoking and should be easy to notice. Pull your deck belt off and roll each spindle individually and feel...

Not sure what motor you have but you only set the valves when they're in the closed position at TDC or thereabouts doesn't have to be exactly , Set your exhaust at .008 and intake at .006 to start , roll it by hand and get it to repeat and they're set . There is a real possibility that it's...

Seems to be very few carbs now with any adjustment , you can pull it and clean it as best you can and it may help , damn sure wont hurt, I bought a new one on amazon for like 11$, came with a filter / plug and other stuff , it's tuff to get them clean being so small etc. Also comes with new...

Pull the fuel pump discharge outlet - to carb- crank it over and watch for fuel - it should be coming out of that line with each revolution - if not , the fuel pump has a bad diaphram or check valve they're not too expensive and go out every so often

These engines seem to flood easily , I have one and I can only choke it one time then pull without choke ,it will start then after a few pulls I've only dealt with 2 of these models and they both acted the same.

they missed the mark , it should have been between the teeth to line up right , like the one on the first pic

The only way I ever pulled a flywheel is to pry up from 2 sides 180 degree apart and Hit the top of the shaft with a good hammer, you need to back the nut off so it's flush with the shaft so it doesn't mushroom. Have a friend pry up on the fly wheel and give it a good Pop with a ball peen...

Had one doing the same thing , the tension spring was stretched and no longer keeping the belt tension up, Still throwing the belt , found a missing mounting bolt on one of the hydro motors , replaced the bolt and problem went away

This is interesting , I've run across something similar to this with a Whole different type of engine - Long story short I was the 5th mechanic to deal with it - ended up being the wrong type of spark plug- thing is it was running side by side with an identical engine and that engine didn't do...

Next time it happens , hit it with a little starting fluid , if it cranks off it's a fuel issue. These little machines are a bit wonky - I've had to replace carburators on them even when I didn't find a problem with the old one - On more than one of them I've learned NOT to choke it - they...

Look on Facebook Market place , you'll find something reasonable

I've seen this model come apart before - in my opinion they're poorly designed - ended up swapping out this type motor with a Kohler 20 hp, everything fit except the exhaust b/c it was a 2 cylinder - Small modification to the frame and it's a nice machine now. I'm betting something came loose in...

No this is not a 2 cycle machine - being this old you may as well buy a new carburator , remove the fuel tank and any fuel lines attached , change the oil and plug but it's straight gas

I'd Pass on anything that old unless you want a project - probably ate up with rust and possibly locked up too.

Pull your spark plug and spin it with the starter to make sure there is nothing mechanically wrong with the internals, this will also test your starter / battery etc. This should isolate the problem and get you going in the right direction If it ran low on oil - bad things can happen in the...

I'd change spark plugs first - easy to do and might correct your problem - possibly the plug is failing when hot. If it eventually starts that pretty much eliminates the solenoid on the carb.

Agree with Berts mobile 1- the Green group has lots of people drinking the Koolaid regarding environmental issues - Cow Farts ? really ? Small gas engines that run 15-20 times a year for a few hrs at a time . Now trying to ban Gas Stoves - what's next no more burping ?

Goin to need some history on this machine also model etc. There are bypass levers to take the transmissions out of service - maybe they are engaged ?

I've tried to bypass all the safeties before and didn't work for me, ended up pulling the relays all together and rewiring my machine without all the safeties and ended my headache - pretty sure the relays are in Series so each one needs to satisfy the next etc. Jump your solenoid and verify...

It's rare I can clean a carburator good enough to correct an issue like this - usually just change it out with a new one - most are under 20 bux on Amazon - I have installed a primer bulb on machines that previously didn't have one to overcome this type of problem although usually they will...

Just add till it gets to the full mark , run a few minutes and recheck - some of these engines say just stick the dip stick in the fit and do not screw it all the way down

Look it up on Amazon , take a picture of yours and compare , amazon will show the carb in 360 degree view , I've gotten a few like this and they're almost always correct - Usually it will list all the engines it is Compatible with

In order for the guys to offer advise you need to post a little background information such as how was it running prior to this , what did the exhaust look like ? Was there any odd noises while it ran, was it getting hard to start over time ? How was the power , was it missing etc.

I've found that once a belt rolls over like this , it will continue to do so, Make sure your idler pully is " floating " and not static

Pretty sure it gets a " Pulse " feed signal from the coil / spark plug wire -no ground needed that I'm aware of