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Sounds maybe like a loose or broken connection on the main accessorie wire somewhere. That's if your not getting any power at all to switch???

Lmao!!

Plastic carbs! Gotta love that invention! And yes the little white part served its purpose as well as the carb did.

Templates can easily be cut with cardboard and mounted to motor for reassurance it fits before placed

You said it starts TRYING to shut down like the blades are slowly stopping or cutting off at once?...maybe that bad bearing you found was causing belt and blades to Start failing?

I definitely agree! Bypassing switches is a big no no! For everyone's benefit at that matter.

Can you just measure if you have the motor?

Sure it is! put in that perspective. Anyone would go a cheaper route. Thank ya sir

The filter did look old but before I pulled the valve apart I had loosened the line from the cylinder and cranked it to see if I was getting fluid flow in retract position. Well of course a little fluid came out of lines and cylinder because it was full from being extended but the fluid that...

Check the clutch/break switch...it's hard to see sometimes but it should be right behind left side of mower. Make sure it is making full contact with pedal pressed in also

Well I decided to get into the valve today. The lever was not staying when you put it in its retract position. All I did was pull the small cover on the back side. What little fluid that came out was black and had some metal shavings in it. There were two sleeves wrap around the cylinder that...

I won't be in front of the broken machine until tomorrow and yes the cylinder is stuck all the way out and will not retract. If it's low on fluid how can you tell since it had enough fluid to press the cylinder all the way out and now the fluid is in the cylinder. I just maybe go ahead and buy...

I have a cub cadet 25 us ton log splitter. The cylinder is all the way out and will not suppress...anyone have any kind of experience on the the fix?

I can somewhat agree to that....is something other then fuel creating it to hydrolock IF......the fuel plunger fails?

Well I think that's what they were doing and they both found a reason to leave and both found a reason to ignore! It's life...get them together and put a wrench in their hand after a year or 2 of working together they will agree on something

How come kohler has most solid lifters without the ACR?

Just a question but are all the compression release valves built with the non adjustable valves? Or did they come with valves that need to be set also?

What style blade are you running? I'm assuming the deck still has the bottom bracket at chute so there is no give? And definitely check level of spindle along with bearings spacers and washers depending on blade type your using.

Something to know Stanley just bought out a good bit of lawn world at the end of last year. Including cub cadet...troy bilt and a few others. Parts are getting harder to get and harder to find that are actually oe. Most are starting to repair with what you get or what you find. Be careful...

Is there 2 or 3 wires at the plug end that goes into the clutch? Some clutch wire harnesses have a resistor installed into them. The resistor creates voltage spikes from coming back into wire harness due to the clutch being magnetic. If the resistor is bad. Well... you have the result.

Lol

Sounds like it is too much for starter to turn when motor lands on compression stroke. Adjusting the valves might help the situation but still might end up needing to replace the starter. Adjusting the valves is cheaper plus a normal maintenance. Hopefully it will help but I think the starter is...

Maybe check the whole thread

Either way as he said in his first post if it won't turn over....(LOL)it won't start nor have spark! Maybe the spark is in the post! Never know

Still alot to determine and check

still focusing on starter here when he said he got it to turn over once and then bench tested it. But yet on the mower he gets nothing at all?even a weak starter will click. Maybe need more specifics! Please. And like before maybe check power and make sure you are getting 12v from ignition wire...

If you have power running from ignition wire to solenoid then yes check starter. I think you know how to ground starter with jumper cables and check it. If it checks out good then change the solenoid. Most definitely clean the carb after 4 months! Fuel is recommended to be changed after 30 days...

Hmmm...had spark and did get it to turn over at one point but not crank? Been sitting for 4 months. Maybe time to clean carb..fresh fuel. Also does sound like a bad contact at solenoid or starter...need to check 12 v power to solenoid when turning key. Not the wires running to and from battery...

Meaning a bad on/off switch....and or are you using the same spark plug you started with at first with no fire

Definitely gonna be a valve clearance issue resulting the starter to fail

Maybe check power to coil...

Busy with warranty and maintaining as well as rebuilding. Hopefully kohler catches some kinda insite on the fix.

Check all ground switches...seat switch etc. Check for fire at plug while jumping at solenoid. Let me know if you have fire or not.

This year I've had maybe 4 or 5 new mowers come in with 5hrs or less with head gasket blown. I've noticed kohler is still using the mesh head gasket without the metal compression ring out of factory. Replacement gasket has compression ring on the gasket. My main concern is every one I have...