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check the belt system to see if any are twisted and jamming things up. Make sure that the whole system is set back to the same as if you finished mowing and turned everything off normally, then go thru a normal start routine. It is not uncommon for people who have a strike to accidentally leave...

If the plug is wet it is flooded. Take the plug out, let it sit overnight and put it back in. Try again without priming it. Maybe rebuild the original carb if the carb listing is indeed RB 70 https://www.carbtech21.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RB%2D070

are you the original builder? Have you ever used it, and if so how long?

first question is what was the issue that made you want to replace everything? second question, was it working right before the work? third question. Did you take detailed photos and notes before you began your work, or did you just try to commit it to memory?

apparently post a manufacturer, model, and serial number so folks here have a better chance to answer your questions.

wrong answer. The correct answer is put it on the concrete and not the lawn. I told you about the glass window. It was not even 1/2 hour and it knocked the grass down.

it is a carb problem if it is a five year old problem. None of those 2-cycle things were made as anything more than throw away unless you learn how to repair them. Example - 2 cycle Homelite marketed as Ryobi hedger - muffler cracked and rotted away in a couple years. Carb went bad. Fuel tank...

Thanks

a bad battery can damage the charging system. Replace the battery.

it may or may not. Depends if the roots were cooked or they just went dormant due to the heat. I set a glass window down one time on the grass on a hot day while measuring the opening for a new window. It was only down for maybe 20 - 25 minutes but it was enough to cause the lawn to go dormant...

start by visually retracing your steps.

I have one of those carbs and tanks that I had to use my skills as a prior machinist to file the tank flat because it had warped over time. Replacing the carb did not solve the issue but filing the tank did. If you have it apart again, lay a good straight edge across the tank and the screw holes...

run some upper cylinder lubricant / cleaner in the fuel for a tank. Maybe a sticking valve. Or pull the head off, pull the valves out, clean them, lap them, set their lash, and replace the head gasket.

sounds like the belt is too tight or the wrong one. Or it is also possible the clutch isn't disengaging. Hence the belt is being told don't move, and you better move or else. It hemorrhages.To overcome the brake lock there would have to be lots of friction, right? At least that is my thought.

did you tip it on its side where oil got into the combustion chamber or exhaust?

maybe a little more to go on would help, Otherwise we can try to guess

https://www.lawnmowerboneyard.com/ http://www.haraldonline.com/ https://www.newson6.com/story/5e366ecd2f69d76f6207e4c4/acres-of-lawn-mowers-parked-outside-of-collinsville-business (918) 371-9989 Lots of places like this. I have gotten items from a couple of them when no one else had them...

You can also consider looking for a used one. There were millions made. A mower bone yard should have a good one. As Rivets indicated, the fiche shows two different tanks on that generic engine number you listed.

the engine will try to run at full RPM but the governor pulls it back. You need either more tension on the governor spring or less tension on the wide open throttle spring. Each carb is different. Next time take photos :)

is it in good enough shape to justify putting a new engine on? Many parts are available if it is just a tuning thing. New reel lawnmowers are available too.

what Rivets said. I might add, I bought an autozone battery for my VW bus about 10 years ago, it was weak in 2 years. We occasionally use the bus but it is garaged and I put the charger on it frequently to keep it topped off. Replaced it with Interstate and that lasted almost 10 years before...

so the first question is why did you replace the arbor? Was it for the same reason? Or was it something else? If so, what?

see my post above for the link and number you might call to get blades or an answer. We were posting at the same time.

Assuming both sides are free of weeds and debris, and all the cooling tin is in place, if one side is that much hotter, it is either pulling much more load, or it is running lean, or it has advanced timing. if it is pulling more load - find why the other side is pulling less If it is lean then...

anything that changes the air to fuel mixture. You've picked the low hanging fruit. Next is looking for intake leaks, and head leaks. Even a tight valve can change the mixture.

have you checked here? http://www.howardpriceturf.com/contact.htm

Have been thinking about this. Maybe a winch and an 00 gauge wire that will spool out 1500'. Add a 240V motor and you are good to go. just winch the line out as you mow further and winch it in as you return to the barn. Make sure you have a spool mounted that will hold the line.

they came up for me in a Google search. I did not call any places that said they have them but it looks like Snapper has the same part number. One of the parts comes up under Briggs and Stratton too. Ferris has one of the parts online. Happy hunting.

one thing you said was that it ran rough up an incline. I would take a look at the fuel pickup if the fuel drains from anywhere but the bottom of the tank, and I would replace the fuel filter. Changing performance up an incline could mean fuel starvation. Or it could be as simple as your mouse...

I hope your week gets better.

looks like a rod strike or a part came loose and got between the rod and case. Looks like it is pushed out from within and not just a basic crack.

all I know is that besides changing tires, cleaning corroded battery bolts and putting Vaseline on them is the third job most mechanics did in their life. Maybe the world has changed.

the old Jacks is gone. I used them for years and they were great. I too have had to cancel the last few orders with them because of B/O parts. Like weeks later they are saying it will ship the next day - which never comes. There are other threads on it. When they have it in stock it is OK but...

if the flange is a flat flange, a belt sander with a hard flat plate and an alum oxide belt is the easiest way to get a flat surface. Did hundreds of manifolds that way. Do a figure eight of lay the flange in each direction lightly Up down right left 45 45.

Rivets, I read what you sent. That is why I used grease instead of the dry lube you say to use. Are you saying the manual is wrong?

Cover it with some Vaseline after you clean it. Also check to see if battery acid is seeping out near the post. It is a problem batteries have had for a hundred years or more.

the larger molecules combined with additives take longer to oxidize so they give better protection against pre-ignition, detonation, and pinging. There is no noticeable gain in torque or HP on a governed engine. That said, in our cars, high octane non-ethanol fuels give us about 20% better mpg...

https://www.carbtech21.com/default.asp is where I get parts for these type carbs. W-26 is only part of the model number. There are several xxxxxx-w26 models.

define why does it not run. Are we talking about the engine speed, or the speed across the ground? How high is the grass it is cutting. How much fuel is in the fuel tank?

Snagit from Techsmith is what I use to grab images. Alternatively if someone is using Windows10 Click on the lower left Window or hit the windows key on their keyboard type SNIP Click on The Snipping Tool Click on New Use their mouse to put a frame around what they want to save Save it as a...

Your comments on the one that was dry and rusty were quite caustic when you saw it. Might be a regional thing where people in dry sandy places have different experiences than those on clay with wet winters and a need for irrigation in summer. non-greased unit greased unit - both same age...

so when was the last time you balanced them?

I suspect the original owner replaced the wheels more than once and decided just to get rid of it. Supply and demand combined with inflation determine an item's cost. If less items are manufactured, then the price goes up. On January 1, 2024 California bans the sale of gasoline powered...

there is a long standing argument on the forum whether to follow factory greasing specs or not. The last mower I worked on was dry, no grease left, and every part in the drive wheel clutches were destroyed from the moisture that got to it. The mower with grease was worn but the parts were in...

does it have a fuel filter?

fwiw I began using TruFuel last year. Every piece of equipment I own now starts on the first or second pull - where it used to take 5 to 8 pulls sometimes. This is not an endorsement for the product - just an observation.

I'd explore the method that the carb gets fuel. Check for vacuum leaks which could expand when the engine is hot, and if the mixture is adjustable, tune it. Sounds like it is too lean if you can start it by squirting gas in it. That can be caused by any one of the issues above - including a...

I have had good luck on these things writing to the Attorney General of the state, my sitting House of Representatives person, and my local state assembly person asking them all to investigate the manufacturer for consumer fraud. In this case because they sell Federally I might include the Chair...

not sure where the repair is but the engine is flooding from being tilted. Fuel is running out of the carb into the cylinders. My only suggestion if you wish to continue on this path would be to put in a fuel shut off lever, and let the engine idle until it stumbles, then turn it off, clean it...

late to the party but we run into things like this in cars. If there are any electronics that control the ignition or fuel system, and they have a thermal problem it becomes heat related. We have also seen it where over time an ignition switch goes bad. When it does it expands with the...