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It is a pretty basic setup, get down there and have someone work the lever while you watch {mower not running}. https://www.ereplacementparts.com/murray-42910x92a-1996-inch-cut-lawn-tractor-parts-c-17887_17888_29391.html

What are the model/spec numbers off of the engine?

Yeah, put up a pic of what you have, and with the head off the gearhead.

Usually a dirty airfilter.

Then when you get it running again, put the air filter back on while running. See what happens. Then wash the filter in hot soapy dishwater and dry.

Take the air filter off, and the spark arrester out. Here are a couple snips from the manual.

A clean muffkin is important.... But I thought we were talking about a Stihl blower?

I never have seen any aftermarket Briggs starter gears hold up.

Hell, mine is cheaper.... https://www.ebay.com/itm/192996526340?hash=item2cef7d4904:g:17YAAOSwuehbTm75

Here is the kit that you need in addition to the flange in my first post.

The hole in the blade should be the same size as the raised center of the trimmer head flange, the over the blade goes a washer, cup, then nut.

Check and make sure that you don't have some loose engine mounting bolts.

I know absolutely nothing about the electrical Stihl stuff, but looking at the kma130 and the kma135 repair manuals, only the kma135 discusses the remote battery option. Maybe that is why it won't fit the kma130.

Check your oil level, see if it smells like gas. Take the plug out and see if it is wet with fuel.

A new carb from the Stihl dealer is only about $40.

https://www.mtdparts.com/en_US/mower-decks/42inch-deck-shell/983-04570A.html

Just do your searches using the part number MTD #98304570

Hell, I sell the whole muffler, bolts and gasket for $15 on e-bay...

Most of the stuff running here in Ky. have no spark arresters. If yours get clogged, also wash your air filter with hot soapy dishwater.

Also, take off the top again, and look at the kill wire going to the coil, see if it is close to metal and shorting out. Or just disconnect it and then run it to see if the problem is there, but you would need to yank off the coil wire {shock} to stop the engine.

While it is running, tilt the mower back on its rear wheels, and see if it changes.

Oh, ok. Send Swisher an e-mail with your pics, someone there would know. That big fuel tank, does it look like it was added by someone?

Here is where the first image came from.

Kind of like this one. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Swisher-12-5-HP-44-in-Electric-Start-Tow-Behind-Trail-Mower-CARB/1205349

Likely made by Swisher...

If you get in there again, look at the flywheel, there should be a part number on it. See if it is the correct one. The times that I have had a mower like this, the timing was off, usually the key. But since you bought it off someone, he may have had someone work on it that put the wrong...

Yeah, that was a bit rough..

I am thinking about one of those battery powered ones.

Use an impact wrench without removing the spark plug. Easy job. Stuffing crap into the spark plug hole just ends in trouble.

Throw it away, A flywheel like that can kill someone.

Put up the mower's model number off of the tag under the seat.

What is the part number of the new tank?

Sometimes voltage can be introduced from a spot in the wire harness that is melted, or mouse chewed, or a key switch coming apart internally.

If you put the flywheel back on, but leave the small kill wire disconnected and crank, you should have spark, if not then the coil is bad. What can destroy a coil is somehow voltage gets sent to the coil via the kill wire, so you should make sure that is not happening, as you would quickly...

I believe yours has one of those plastic cams, and the teeth are boogered up.

Here are the 2 snips of the ipls, showing both taking the same gearhead, so any attachments should bolt on fine. As far as the fr model being able to handle it, I am not sure.

Is it an fr85?

Everyone is sold out

Yeah, some carbs have a tinier one to boot, right at the base of the threads {tecumseh engines}. Most times cleaning that nut is all you need to do. I actually leave the nut on my logsplitter on a hair loose, so when I am done the last bit of gas drips out, and the fuel won't sit there and...

I am needing to buy a new garden tiller, which is proving to be very difficult.

I think that the thread is a good indicator that we need to go outside and enjoy the warmer weather.

A posting Nazi!!

The nut holding the bowl on the carb, is also the main jet. remove it and clean it thoroughly, clean out the tiny holes/passages. Sometimes that is all you need to do.

Put up the engine's model and spec numbers.

Jack up both front wheels and look at things, check for a lot of slop somewhere. Or the link could be bent, it is hard to tell. There is a little adjustment.

Are you sure that the fuel shutoff solenoid is opening when you turn the key on?

Bad cam?

Take off your valve covers again, the watch the rocker arm movement while rotating the flywheel by hand. Look and see that the rocker arms are moving about the same, you could have a bad cam lobe, which was common on this engine back @ 15 or so years back.

https://www.mowerpartsales.com/noram-blade-brake-manual-clutch-unit-husqvarna-ct130-cth130-jonsered-bestgreen-mowers-532179887-906-p.asp

http://ersatzteillisten.motoruf.de/Partner/Tractor/IPL,%20Partner,%20P13592%20RB,%2096061017300,%202007-02,%20Tractor.pdf