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Sound like a linkage problem now, as well as a little bit of gunk yet in the carb. Put up some pics of the engine carb, etc. as well as the engine's model numbers.

It could be a number of things. What is your model number off of the serial number tag? Usually behind or under the seat.

They also have a problem with the choke not snapping fully closed, but will come off full choke when trying to start, so the orange lever thingy should close with a noticeable click.

The choke is made into the air filter housing. Take out the muffler screen and try to start it. It takes a 16mm or 5/8 wrench.

No, The drain for the hydros was just above the deck. Luckily I was the 2 cycle guy, it looked like a messy job. The owner of Dixie must have really loved that Lucas oil, hell he probably deep fried his turkey with it.

I worked at a Dixie Chopper dealer once, and they put Lucas oil in everything. Draining the hydro oil was messy, oil went everywhere.

I would at least make sure that it isn't sitting there full of water, before it is too late.

Here is a snip off of the Mediacat.

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/peerless-transmission/794691 I'll take 4....

The carb and carb kit will be in a red and white box that says "Briggs and Stratten". But see if you can take the carb apart before getting any parts.

Take it apart before buying any parts, getting that jet out without screwing up the carb is the main thing to focus on. Many times you can go through it and only needing gaskets, and inlet needle. Get the correct screwdriver, that is a must.

Blade is properly indexed?

It doesn't take much. It is the main reason I had selling flywheels, they are easily resheared.

It doesn't discuss the flywheel much, but the manual will become useful.

Manual.

It doesn't take being off by much. Are those aftermarket parts? I have never seen an e-z start fs38/45/55 around here.

Where are the magnets at TDC?

But the flywheels that I sell on e-bay are two of the three, and they all seem to work the same, and the coils are all the same. For the hell of it, I made a youtube of removing the clutch/flywheel on these, It is a fs56 in the video, but it has the same clutch, drum as the fs38/45/55.

There have been a few different flywheels made for that series, but I always replace one with the same one/same part number to be safe. The great thing with that model is that the same powerhead is on the fs38, so I just slapped an fs38 powerhead on the fa55 straight shaft, and it runs...

Insufficiently torquing the flywheel, it will just shear again.

Water in the carb bowl.

When I do a search of the tb30r, I am only coming up with a hydrostatic drive rear engine rider. Can you post the model number off of the serial number tag?

Can you take a pic of the top of the engine? So we can see the starter better?

Or there could be some slop in the rivets that bolt the starter on to the housing.

Probably just needs the pull rope wound one loop tighter.

The bulb needs to pull fuel through the carb and then to the tank, so make sure that they are hooked up correctly.

You might look at the point where the shifting mechanism meets the transaxle, and make sure it is allowing it to fully shift into the forward position. Can you put up a pic of the sticker that you are getting that part number from?

Can you put up a pic of the tractor, as well a pic of the tag under the seat?

Is this it? The new prefixes are 918. https://www.mtdparts.com/en_US/miscellaneous-classification/differential-assembly/918-04097A.html

The switch is right there in the pic. If all of this is true, the black wire is grounding somewhere.

Make sure that the oil slinger/governor is sitting in place correctly, it is possible to install it off to the side if not pushing the paddle correctly.

I put this one in my personal mower a few months ago, looked decent. Still working. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WRKXP56?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Dang, you guys are wound a little too tight!!

Here, she is a lot prettier.

Does it have the toolless adjuster like this one?

White spots? Sounds like your old mix had water in it and you finally got it out of your system.

Yeah most drills don't turn the newer coils fast enough. I didn't pursue it because you said that you were using the pull starter.

If you have absolutely nothing, take a closer look at the piston with the muffler off. Also check the location of the flywheel magnets when the piston is at TDC.

Is the side of the plug grounded on the block?

Are you using a drill to rotate the flywheel on your tests?

I am not sure they carry the fs50 around here, it is pretty much the same as the fs40. I use the head that comes on the fs38 around here, and it works pretty good. Good quality trimmer line is a must on any of them. Just for a fun experiment, I slapped my FS38 powerhead on my old FS90 shaft...

I am not sure they carry the fs50 around here, it is pretty much the same as the fs40. I use the head that comes on the fs38 around here, and it works pretty good. Good quality trimmer line is a must on any of them.

This is the other style put out by Stihl, I have seen them, but never used one. I see their aftermarket versions on E-Bay.

I like the head I put up the ipl for. There are other heads that they made for the same model, but they never stocked those around here. The head needs to fit on an end like this, so that excludes most of the aftermarket choices.

I don't know if any aftermarket companies make that head, usually best to get it from the dealer. Usually about the same cost when shipping costs are added, and they should have it on the shelf.

If you are going to buy a carb online, make sure that the throttle cable end is the correct one, they made a change a while back.

You may have to join the group to reach it, go to the "files" section. https://www.facebook.com/groups/866086936781821/files/files

I have the 08s manual, but the file is too large for here. Are you on facebook? I can put it up there.

With the engine off, have someone move the pedal and the selector in a variety of positions and see what you can see. With the pedal depressed, see if there is any up/down movement in the center sheave, it may be a bit "sticky".