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The 90 psi would typically be more "normal". There is no spec for what it should be, but both cylinders should be within 10% or so of each other. Has there ever been any valve maintenance performed, other than checking valve lash? If lash is set correctly, you could try adding SeaFoam to a tank...

Yes, S00 is 15amp, S12 is 30amp, for Hustler applications.

Engines are designed to ideally last through the warranty period. What is the source of your information?

If you are doing the rebuild yourself, it might be worth while. If you are having it done, I would replace the engine. An FX850V is available in EFI, but you would need to get all the controls side of it through Hustler. If this engine is using oil and smoking, it has been dirt ingested at some...

Also, if your compression gauge is accurate, 150 compression is high. What did you adjust the valve gap to? How did you adjust? You wrote "it fires at high speed but misses at low speed", what does this mean? A coil has no determination of high/low speed. Do you have spark the whole time, but...

What type of spark tester? If you use a gap type tester, the standard for small engines is 1/4". If the coil will jump the gap, the coil is fine. Also, connect the clamp of the tester to the rocker cover bolt, not the spark plug itself. There is a diode in the coil. Unless you remove the ground...

Amazing how many are ignorant to the damage being done by blowing out filters. Then, they cry and whine when their warranty is denied. Do not blow out filters under any circumstances.

The ITW filter should have a black marker mark in the side. If it doesn't I would not use it. Those filters were under recall back in 2009. Either Kawasaki number 49019-0027 or 49019-0031 will work just fine for carburetor engines. The 49019-0031 is a MUST for EFI engines. Kawasaki is now...

It's a lawn mower engine. Iridium plugs will make no difference, same as using premium fuel will make no difference. But, it's your $$

There is no carburetor available from Kawasaki. You would need to contact the manufacturer of the blower. There are numbers on the carburetor itself that might help with identification, but it would be a very long shot you will find a replacement.

Oil does nothing but attract dirt! It has no place on a lawn mower air filter. Period.

Pre-filters are not intended to be oiled. Geez, read your owners manual!

Sounds like a failed ignition coil. A coil can produce a spark but not have the energy to fire the cylinder under compression.

There is: FXT00V (carbureted) FXT00V DFI (Nikki digital fuel injected, discontinued) FXT00V EFI (Synerject electronic fuel injected, current) All three engines are a beast. Although the discontinued DFI model is very temper mental. All are marketed under the FX1000V name. There is no FX1000E...

Kawasaki is fairing better, for engine availability, than other small engine manufacturers, in my opinion. A lot of mower manufacturers are having issues turning out product as well. It is not just an engine issue.

The FX models are EPA rated for the canister filter. Its quite simple.

Everyone considering this be advised: This will void the manufacturers warranty and is a federal EPA violation.

@kly5953 Congratulations on the home purchase. Sounds like your father did what most people should do for getting the best service from their mower. Looks like you have a fine example to live by. Seafoam works just fine. Probably not designed to clean dirt/debris out of the carburetor. It is...

I also am a firm believer that anything is possible. But, corrosion is not a manufacturing defect. Neither is dirt that wears the shafts. Good posts!

That engine hasn't been built for at least 25 years. If Deere does not have a replacement, which is likely, you are probably out of luck.

A carb defect from the factory is extremely rare. And if there was a defect, it would be evident very soon in the engines early life. Carburetors DO NOT develop internal defects. Dirt, old fuel, or missing/ damaged parts are about all you'll have. Please prove me wrong. 40 years of working with...

Surging is either a fuel blockage or air leak, not valve adjustment. Could also be a governor issue. When surging, if you slowly apply the choke, does the surge tend to want to smooth out? If not, then safely grab the throttle shaft, linkage or governor arm. Can you control the surge? If so...

That, unfortunately, was common for those engines early on. Happens when oil is not checked regularly and kept full. Today's engine's have a direct oil port to the flywheel side (upper) bushing, to give a little help to the all too common poor maintenance.

What engine model?

All FD791D's have a regulator. What spec is yours?

If applying choke helps, you need the carburetor cleaned. If you can control the surging by holding the throttle shaft, link rod or governor arm, a static adjustment of the governor is the likely cause.

Have the coil air gap adjusted tighter. If the gap is on the larger side and maybe the magnetism is on the lower side, with thermal expansion, this will cause the coil to not energize normally and not fire under combustion pressure.

A carburetor should never need replacement unless: 1) it is corroded beyond being able to be cleaned. 2) a non-replaceable part is broken/missing 3) replacement parts are not available 4) there is no desire to clean, replace parts or maintain it correctly throughout its life. 4a) you've got...

I think 7394's suggestion it the best. I would first make sure valve lash is not too loose. This would put unnecessary demand on the starter. Then, I would try a jumper cable in place of the B+ cable from the battery to the starter. OEM's these days use smaller battery cables that don't deliver...

The 300 hour adjustment is a recommendation. Using automotive oil, that does not contain a sufficient amount of zinc can cause premature wear to all metal to metal contact parts.

101 td has the correct definition. The valves are in a V configuration, in a hemispherical cylinder head.