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I forgot to mention this to you yesterday but I looked at your crankshaft pictures blown up as much as I could and I couldn't find any evidence of a timing mark in any of them. I have friend at the Central U.S. distributor and this was bugging me enough that I was going to call him and ask him...

If you look at the picture Star posted and this picture from an XT675, that would possibly put the crank timing mark somewhere in the area of the blue circle. If the red circle is in fact the cam timing mark, it looks like they might line up if the crank were rotated.

What was the original reason for removing the oil pan?

I'd only be guessing but possibly with the drill the engine is turning at a fast enough RPM to disengage the compression release letting it build up compression it may not be able to do with the slower RPM of the pull starter if the cam and crank are out of time. That's just one theory.

The only way I know to time a cam to a crank without marks it to do it until I get correct valve overlap. Check out this video to help understand what valve overlap is. It's of course not your engine but the principle is the same. Then check and see if you get correct valve overlap when you...

If you can’t find any sign of a timing mark you can time it without a mark. It’s a bit of a pain but it can be done.

Can’t quite make out the spec number. Is it 41567? That is exactly where the Spark Advance Module would have been mounted but CV15 was fixed timed ignition and didn’t use a SAM.

Sadly Kohler hasn't published a decent service manual in over 10 years. Since the man who was in charge of Technical Publications retired, their manuals have been little more than telling you to "Diagnose engine. Find issue. Fix issue. Return engine to service".

This is one engine I never taught so I don't know for sure but can give you a couple of things to look for. Sometimes there is a thrust washer stuck on the crank gear hiding the timing mark. See if maybe that's the case. If not, look at the tooth that is directly in line with the square cut key...

Post a pic of the muffler if you can.

You might check with Toro. Old Kohler microfiche does not reference a muffler for that spec which typically means the muffler or exhaust was supplied by the equipment mfg. If Toro was using a basic round muffler then it would have probably been cheaper for them to source the muffler in bulk than...

Amazon has Castrol HD 30W but me thinks it will be hard to find someone willing to pay what they are asking.

No but I may have to plead ignorant on this one. Yours is different than the ones I've seen. I don't think yours uses a choke return spring. Like you, I don't see where it could go and with what the air vane spring looks to do I don't see the need for a choke return spring. The ones I have seen...

Yes they are different springs. The choke return spring stretches across the top of the carb from the choke shaft to a bracket that is actually part of the carb.

I agree. You don’t need to cause more problems. Just see if anything looks out of place or bent. It’s a pretty simple system so there aren’t too many things to check.

Without the muffler I'm not sure the thermostat will work correctly so that may not tell you anything.

Just a couple of thoughts. Maybe see if you can find out what the RPMs should be on this engine and make sure they're not below what they should be. If the RPMs are low there might not be enough air movement to force the air vane to move as far as it's supposed to. I don't know if this is even...

Yes. That is the Spark Advance Module. One thing to check with the SAM. If you can loosen it enough, turn it over and inspect the epoxy potting material on the back for any signs of cracks. If that material cracks, it lets in moisture and that would likely cause it to no longer work properly...

Don't know where you want to go but I can tell you what I would do next for what it's worth. It seems like it could be a timing issue and since the flywheel key is good, valve timing or a bad SAM would be what I would check next. Since you probably don't have a SAM tester I'd start with the...

Was it running correctly when you bought it or did you buy it knowing it had issues? That will give a little history as to when the issues may have started.

I was afraid you were going to say that. Have you had this equipment since new? If so, can you give a little history on this engine? When did it last run right and has there been any work done between when it last ran right and when it started not running right? Do you know if the engine has...

What does the spark plug look like? Does it show signs of the engine running hot?

Was the engine running when you took the video? I assume it was but I couldn't tell for sure. If so then the bubbles are normal and caused by engine vibration. Years ago manufacturers would put baffles in the fuel tanks to help limit that but then the baffles could deteriorate and plug the fuel...

Sorry if you already mentioned this but did you pull the flywheel and check the flywheel key?

Turn both mixture adjustment screws in gently until they bottom out. Then back the idle screw out 2-1/2 turns and the high speed out 3-1/2 turns. Then fine tune from there as needed.

No. Just wanted to be sure the wire to the points and the wire to the condenser were on the negative (-) side of the ignition coil and not the positive (+) side. It's something commonly seen where someone connects the points to the positive (+) side of the ignition coil and the engines will...

Yes the angled one on the side is the idle. The one in the top if the high spe

And the connections on the coil?

Make sure the only wire attached to the + side of the ignition coil is a power wire coming from the key switch. Points and condenser attach to the - side of the coil. Did you also replace the condenser?

Did you have the unit tipped for any reason when replacing the belt?

The model number is CV23. At sometime that engine has been short blocked as 24 522 388 is a short block part number. The B style piston and ring set for a CV23 is 24 874 54-S.

Anything over 150 psi compression is good on a Command twin. The air you hear when pressurizing the cylinders is very normal. What is your compression cold?

Swapping them is a fairly easy way to possibly rule out the one module. If the dark plug stays on #1 it's probably not the module. Was old #1 spark plug also getting black like the new one? And unfortunately since Kohler uses a half moon flywheel key, simply taking the bolt out and looking at...

The ignition is timed to fire before TDC so the magnet being past the ignition module with that side's piston at TDC is normal. How much past is too much? That's a good question. Since the flywheel key needs to only be partially sheared to cause an issue there's really no way to tell by looking...

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If you don't have it all back together yet, pull the flywheel and check the flywheel key. The best way to get the flywheel off is to use a harmonic balancer puller. If you have an O'Reilly's Auto Parts, Autozone or similar auto parts store near, you can possibly borrow one with a refundable deposit.

If those new modules don't fix anything you still don't know what is wrong with it so don't give up just yet. It could turn out to be something minor. I need to clarify something I mentioned earlier about your symptoms sounding like it could be the Spark Advance Module or SAM. While not...

Hopefully the new ignition modules take care of it but just FYI, you'll have to find either a used one or someone with old stock as that 24 584 09-S spark advance module has been NLA for 5 years or so. The current fix is a conversion kit that includes a new flywheel and two new ignition modules...

This sounds more like a timing issue which would more point to the Spark Advance Module than the ignition modules. Or even a flywheel key.

I meant the engine ID tag. It has nothing to do with any of your personal info.

This was a known issue to Kohler and goes back to 1999 when they changed to the larger module. It only affected a small number of engines at the time so Kohler never offered a bulletin about it. Not many engines had a heavy duty canister air filter back then so I was thinking maybe that is what...

The crankshaft will actually get longer as the engine warms up and end play is there by design and is necessary to keep the crankshaft from seizing at it's thrust faces. Too little end play is normally more of an issue that too much within reason of course. Like Scrub pointed out from his chart...

You can check valve timing without opening the engine back up by checking valve over lap. Take out the spark plugs so you can hopefully turn the engine by hand. Remove one rocker cover and bring the piston on that side to TDC exhaust. If properly timed, valve overlap is what you get when the...

Did this guy give any thoughts as to where the stray power might be coming from? You didn't by chance catch his name did you? Battery hooked up correctly? Reversed polarity? Make sure there isn't a little minus sign in front of the 12.5 voltage reading. Just throwing it out there.

In what time frame? Are these 5 modules over years or do you put one on and it immediately fails? Are these genuine Kohler modules? Just going off what you posted I'd be checking for battery voltage on the white kill lead. It shouldn't have any.

Okay. I can't believe this wasn't the very first thing I asked you but, what was the reason for replacing the modules in the first place?

This is out of the Kohler CV twin manual so as you can see the fact that your new module is larger than the original is correct. Kohler did make that change. I don't believe it being an Amazon part is why it won't mount. It may why it doesn't work after you get it mounted or why it only lasts...

I don’t think it matters for fitment but are you mounting them with the two terminals on top? I did find where Kohler increased the size of the module when they superseded the 25 584 11-S to the 15-S and that was sometime in 1999.

I’m guessing those are aftermarket modules. Kohler doesn’t typically add the -S to the number on he part itself as you can see in the pic Star posted. Normally the -S is only on the box not the part itself.

Like has been mentioned you probably have a bad compression release but just a thought. If you have a compression tester you might want to check compression before you condemn the compression release. You'd hate to go to all the work of replacing a camshaft that didn't need replacing. You should...