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It will probably turn out to be correct but I don't always trust Kohler's parts look up when it comes to carbs. Look at the number right on the carb. It will be 20 053 and two more digits. You might get lucky and find the last two digits aren't 23 but something else that's still available. I'm...

Let me ask a silly and probably useless question but, do you still have the spark advance module you took off this engine? If so, what's the number on it?

From what I see in the pics the cam lobes and lifters look fine. As far as the lifters being the same as a small block GM, they are the same external size but according to Kohler they oil hole sizes are different. I can't say if GM lifters will work or not. I've never tried. They might work...

Yes. A crack would allow the gear to slip and yes that should have been ruled out by checking overlap, but since you're in there I figured it couldn't hurt to take a look. And if you could clarify something for me. When you ran the engine on one cylinder at a time you said neither side would...

While you have it apart, look at the crankshaft gear very closely for anything resembling a crack.

How do the lifters look? Can you post a pic of the side that runs on the cam? And you don't want to change the cam if it's not needed obviously, but for a different reason than you may think. Kohler says to replace the camshaft and crankshaft together. Never just replace one. So you'd be...

Anything above 150 psi is good and your leak down test was good so the rings and cylinders seem good. I know there is the issue with some smoking on #1 cylinder but whatever is wrong seems to be affecting both cylinders. It sounded really good when you started it cold even at idle. I know the...

If you take it off you might be able to grab the rod and slide the support bracket sharply toward the flange sort of like a slide hammer a few times and see if that loosens it. Not too hard because you don't want to break that bushing in the support bracket. You might be able do something...

I would agree. It's an engine issue but all the tests so far aren't revealing anything. A collapsed lifter should cause less rocker arm movement and be noticeable. They all move the same, so to me, that rules that out. I'm going to bore you with a couple more questions. This is exactly how the...

Maybe tearing into it is the next step but to me, the things you've checked such as, compression and valve timing on top of new head gaskets says to me it's not internal. But it wouldn't be the first time I was wrong. Your valves may be opening a bit under spec but I don't think it's enough to...

Yes. You have to pull the black flange off the shaft and then reinstall it in a new position with just enough tension close the choke. And again, pull if off. Don't twist it.

Retiring two years ago, I worked 27 years for a Kohler distributor doing this exact thing for about 9 months out of the year. We dealt mostly with Kohler authorized dealers helping them with engine troubleshooting, parts help and warranty. That was a little easier than this because it was all...

Has it ever run right for you since you bought it?

I know you mentioned that all the valves were opening the same distance and sorry if I missed it but, how much are they moving? 3/8" or more? And with a single barrel carb feeding two cylinders, one spark plug on a Command twin is typically just a slight bit darker than the other. The...

I'm trying to figure out how to type this that it makes sense. What I am looking for is an exhaust restriction. I know your spreadsheet mentioned checking that but it may need to be looked at a little deeper. If there is restriction it builds up back pressure and can cause fuel to mist back out...

If this is the system you have, notice the item circled in red below and shown again in another picture below that. That black plastic flag I'll call it, is able to be removed from the shaft and can be turned to change the clock position to add spring tension when the spring gets older and...

Yes it is a sealed thermostatic spring coil unit on the muffler but there has to be some mechanism that partially opens the choke before the spring unit on the muffler gets warm enough to fully open the choke. The early Kohler XT engines used a vacuum diaphram pull off or relief to do that...

I'm an engine guy so I'm no help with the hydros but were you able to look for any fuel mist blowing back out of the carb? And is the problem only with the blades engaged?

Okay what do we know? Compression is good. Ignition and valve timing are good. Carb is good. Governor is working as it should as proven by your string. So that tells us that the engine is trying to provide more RPMs by going to wide open throttle but won't speed up. Too much external load is a...

Something I forgot to ask. Does the engine appear to run fine with no load? Any signs of fuel mist blowing back out of the carb?

There is quite a bit of clearance. I don't think I've ever seen a valve on a Command twin get smacked by the piston.

Click on the link attached below. It will take you to another thread about no timing mark. Once there, go to post #10. I posted a process there. There is also a video attached there showing what valve overlap should look like. A quick description would be, take both spark plugs out so you can...

Sure. Can you answer me one question first please? Did you remove the flywheel to check the flywheel key?

This first bit has nothing to do with your issue but a little extra info for others possibly looking at this thread for their own issues. There are actually three conversion kits for the Kohler Command twin variable timed ignition systems. There are two kits for converting ASAM ignitions that...

Thanks for letting us know it's up and running. It's nice to know an issue got solved.

If you’re getting 13.8 or better at the battery, the regulator is grounded. Sounds like the charging system is fine.

What do you have at the battery with the engine running full speed? It should be between 13.8 and 14.7 VDC. If you have that, then the charging system is working correctly. If lower than 13.8 turn the engine off and then turn the key back to the on position. Unless you have a 20 amp charging...

Curious, what did you check between the regulator body and engine block? Thanks.

I'm fascinated with all of the answers to questions nobody asked.

This engine uses a vacuum choke pull off doesn't it?

I found it but it's in black and white. I can't be 100% certain but I'm pretty sure it's a tan wire.

I have one. Let me get my hands on it and I'll post back.

Unless it's been converted your engine has two ignition modules and a Spark Advance Module (SAM) that tells the ignition modules when to fire. Since you did the ohms test in the manual I'll guess it has not been converted. There will be seven wires coming out of that SAM. You may have to...

Could you define "checked coils" please?

I'm sure the mice like the easy access but even with that hole covered they will just come in another way. It's their job.

Not ashamed. It was actually a good system once the bugs were worked out of it in the late 90s. And most of the issues were with the ignition modules themselves, not the SAMs. The DSAM systems were quite bullet proof. When better variable time ignition technology came along things got upgraded...

The DSAMs used yellow and brown wires on one side and pink and brown on the other. Yours if the first one I've ever seen with yellow on both sides after Kohler went to the DSAM somewhere around 2002. Both the ASAM and DSAM systems used the exact same ignition modules.

The number on the flywheel itself is not a part number so it doesn't mean much to us. Your 24 584 27-S was for sure a DSAM if that helps.

The ASAMs had a yellow and a brown wire going to each ignition module. The DSAM still uses yellow and brown on one side but on the other side one of the wires is pink. I can't remember if it's the yellow one or the brown one that is pink on that side. Over time with the colors fading it's hard...

The CV740 used a DSAM not an ASAM. You don't need the 308 kit either. While it will have the correct MDI modules needed for the conversion it comes with the same flywheel your already have. What you need is a 25 707 03-S kit. It comes with two MDI modules. No flywheel change is needed. The CDI...

I'm far from any kind of an oil expert and I know a guy who ran his Jeep Grand Cherokee over 200000 miles before his son inherited it using nothing but the cheapest oil and filters he could find at Walmart. His son still drives it and last I knew it had around 310000 miles on it. That being...

Getting the correct primer and go from there is what I would do. If the original had no hole then you need one with no hole. They aren't interchangeable. You could be chasing an issue that wouldn't be an issue with the correct part. Can I say the correct part will fix it? Of course not. Just...

Did the customer say if the engine was running fine before the remote primer got broken? Has it been sitting around for quite a while broken or were they recently using it and broke the primer?

Click on the link at the bottom of my last reply titled "Kohler XT675-2047" Once there, go to reply #10. Go to the link in that video. It describes how to find valve overlap. A compression test likely won't tell you anything because if the crank has turned inside the crank gear it's usually...

I wondered if it might have had a CV16 blower housing on it. If that’s the case there is nothing missing and no need for the spec #. I would definitely cover that hole though. No sense in losing air that could be better used to cool the engine.

Sounds like a choke issue to me. Take the air filter off and look and see if it’s closed. How long is the engine shut off before you try to restart it?

Look at post #10 of this discussion in the link below. Watch the video. It will show how to find valve overlap. If overlap occurs any place other than the piston being at top dead center at the end of the exhaust stroke your cam and crank are out of time with each other and that could cause...

How are you checking for spark? That is a continuous loop system so testing is a little different. Do you have a way to connect two spark plugs together with spring clamps and a wire connecting them like is in the picture? Kohler recommends 4 spark plugs for this test. Two out of the engine...

It shouldn't no.

No. That's the voltage regulator. This is a SAM