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Maybe someone will come along to help you out.

No, I don’t own a Ferris. Will this help? https://www.shantzfarmequip.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Ferris-mower-IS2600Z-zero-turn-mower-parts-manual.pdf

If you can’t get it off and decide to cut it, how will you get the new belt on? You are going to have to remove the deck belt first. You are then going to have to unplug your PTO clutch and remove the PTO anti-rotation bolt. You are then going to release the tension spring on the hydraulic drive...

Maybe, I should have been more clear. I never shut my engine down at full RPM. I always idle it down before shutting it off.

First of all, the engine make, model number, and serial number would be helpful. Adding a drain hose may require you to loosen the engine mounting bolts and raise the engine high enough to make the change.

I ain’t buying the rusted pulley story either.

Did they even bother to check the pulley alignment?

Good deal.

The first Toro that I had was the MX5050 with the EZT2200 transmissions. It was a decent mower except for the deck leveling setup. One adjuster on the front and one on the left side. I never could get the thing to level. I moved up the the Timecutter HD54 ZX5400. It had ZT3100 hydros. The deck...

Many people are too eager to replace carburetors.

Are you able to get Loncin engines? That may be an option. Their engines of that HP rating usually have a 1” crankshaft end. Of course, you will have to modify the wiring.

E Exhaust all other options before buying a cheap Chinese carburetor. Make sure you have good fuel flow to the carburetor. There may be trash in the tank. You may have bad gas in the tank. The pickup line in the tank may be picking up trash that’s bigger than the fuel line. Pull the carburetor...

Yep. I was focusing on what the OP was looking for. The lower end Toro residential zero turn mowers aren’t all that great. I had one and I could never get the deck to level. If I were buying a lawn tractor, I would go with a John Deer, Husqvarna, or Kubota.

I DID say, “not necessarily”, didn’t I?

Here is the proper method according to the Kohler ZT740 owners manual. This is required every 25 hours. Air Cleaner NOTE: NOTE: Operating engine with loose or damaged air cleaner components could cause premature wear and failure. Replace all bent or damaged components. Paper element cannot be...

The previous owners were probably not very diligent with the maintenance.

That’s not necessarily the case. Look at the John Deere lineup. Example: https://www.deere.com/en/mowers/lawn-tractors/100-series/s140-lawn-tractor/

So, you have nearly 900 hours on that engine. Do you know if it was maintained properly before you bought it? Were the valves ever adjusted? Was the foam pre-filter, on the air filter element, washed and oiled every 25 hours? Was the oil changed yearly or every 100 hours?Was the correct oil...

For your particular application, I would look at a 48” John Deere lawn tractor. Do yourself a favor and go to the local John Deere dealer to purchase any new John Deere lawn tractor.

AYP was gobbled up by Husqvarna MTD is now Stanley Black and Decker. They build the majority of lawn tractors. Cub Cadet, Craftsman, Troy Bilt, and etc. Toro is Toro and Exmark. Toro does not make lawn tractors. Briggs and Stratton makes Snapper, Simplicity, and Ferris. Ferris doesn’t make lawn...

Something isn’t right. An alignment issue? Rusty pulleys? If there is an alignment issue, the deck could be warped. I wonder if either dealer put a straight edge on the deck surface?

Try the leaking Scag out. If it handles the terrain, think about repairing or replacing the engine on it.

What happened to your owners manual?

https://www.weingartz.com/assembly-diagram/exmark-parts-lookup/model-lazer-z-s-n-320-000-369-999-lz20kc524-s-n-320-000-369-999-2002-lz23kc604-s-n-320-000-369-999-2002-lz25ka604-s-n-320-000-369-999-2002-lz25kc524-s-n-320-000-369-999-2002-lz25kc604-s-n-320-000-369-999-2002-lz26kc604-s-n-320-000-369...

Please provide the model and serial numbers. It could be any number of safety switches or a loose ground wire.

ZDDP: Zinc and phosphorus are more than anti-wear additives. They are also anti-oxidants. Higher levels of zinc and phosphorus in engine oils can foul catalytic converters and diesel particulate filters. That’s the reason for reducing the zinc and phosphorus levels in oils for newer passenger...

Whatever! I’ve provided the literature that Kohler and Kawasaki puts out pertaining to their oil. Kohler even states that the demand of small air cooled engines is different than that of automobile requirements. Today’s automobile oils are engineered to meet the current EPA CAFE standards geared...

Your theory is based on anecdotal evidence. An air cooled small engine has different oil requirements than a gasoline powered automobile engine. If they didn’t, small engine manufacturers would not have their branded oil formulated to meet certain requirements...

It’s going to have as much zinc and phosphorus as most other 4 Stroke motorcycle oil or Power Sports oils. Kawasaki and Kohler don’t publish product data sheets. So, take a look at what Valvoline, Mobil, Castrol and others publish. The zinc and phosphate levels are going to be around 1,200 PPM...

If you are bagging, you will need high lift blades. If you have a mulching kit on it, it needs to come off. I don’t know about a skirt kit.

Are you using a bagger?

That sounds like a coil. Have you tested the coil? Does it have spark? Is the coil air gap correct?

I’m providing a link to an earlier post. https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/srm-225-wont-rev-up.74935/page-2#post-485437 https://www.echo-usa.com/youcan-maintenance-kits/fuel-system-kit

Did you leave the PTO switch turned on?

Check the safety switches. Also, the reverse switch. Toro uses pretty crappy switches on those residential zero turns. Sometimes they work and sometimes they don’t.

You are correct. The bracket that comes with the kit mounts to the plastic engine shroud. The two screws that hold the filter door on are reused for the mounting bracket. The setup looks kind of flimsy to me.

Or, 2 cycle oil.

That’s pretty much how I did it. I angle cut the ends of the line. I then pushed enough through and grabbed it with the hemostats. It went pretty smoothly.

I thought of using monofilament fishing line to pull the fuel lines through.

You saw what I put into my personal saw. Above ☝ The darned thing runs like a brand new saw. I wasn’t going to give up on it yet. I just didn’t want to fork out $350+ on a new saw.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZIYXS4?ref=emc_s_m_5_i_atc

It’s not too bad if you have a couple of pair of hemostats or long bodied needle nose pliers.

Yes, the cheap residential consumer brands are pretty much throw away products. Echo is my personal choice. I do have an old Poulan Pro 220 (Husqvarna) chainsaw. I recently put new fuel lines, fuel filter, air filter, primer bulb, and carburetor mounting gasket on it. I was winding up my my...

I think that we’ve given the best advice possible. It’s up to the OP to follow our advice or not.

That too. And, don’t loan your stuff out.

I’m still using the speed head that came with my SRM225. The secret to it’s longevity is not bumping it on concrete or asphalt surfaces. It’s getting close to replacement time.

You may have some internal damage. You will probably have to remove the head and have a look.

It could be several things. First of all, we don’t even know what Echo model and serial number you have. We don’t even know how old it is. There is fuel mixture is all over the top of the engine. There doesn’t look like very much maintenance has been done to it. The fuel lines, fuel filter, fuel...

Did you inspect the pushrod?

What @mechanic mark said. ☝️ Oscillating? Something that’s spinning is making the noise. You are going to need the deck belt off and spin all of the pulleys and idlers. Check the play in the spindles. Also, check your belt. There could be chunks of rubber missing from the belt.