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You’ve got a customer for life and she has a mechanic for life. Hope you used the extra $$$ to buy bigger shirts, as I know your heart just doubled in size. Great ending.

Check to see if you have power on the A terminal of the ignition switch. No power bad switch.

If it came to me with this problem I would do the following. First, purchase a new bolt. Second, run a tap in the hole to clean the threads. Third, install the new bolt dry, torque properly.

Now that you have given us the right unit numbers here are the correct parts and service manuals. Delete the orthers I posted so you don’t get confused. https://www.toro.com/getpub/5848 https://www.toro.com/getpub/6897 https://www.toro.com/getpub/29738 https://www.toro.com/getpub/6900...

Check the operators manual. https://www.toro.com/getpub/16409

Unless you have a lot of spare time and have worked on Toros, it is very difficult to find answers for you without model and serial numbers. There shouldn’t be an ID tag on the mower, as they were riveted to the frame. See my other reply. Also, please don’t start a new thread when you have a...

Doing a little more digging I think this is the parts manual for your unit. Second, I would recommend only using OEM blades. https://www.toro.com/getpub/16416

Try here. https://www.toro.com/en/parts/findmodelserialplate

The model number you are posting is for the deck. If you want more help you need to post the units model and serial numbers from the ID tag under the seat.

Yes it is. I’ll start by attaching a copy of the operator’s manual, which should come in handy. When I was working in the shop I know there was a service manual for that unit, but can’t find it online. I’ll keep looking but it you need more help include the units serial number as the was a...

9900001 would be the serial number.

Two things I would check. First, I would jack up the rear end and put it on jackstands. Start the unit and check to see if the wheels turn when off the ground. If they spin hold one wheel and watch the other. If it still turns I’m not leaning towards a transmission problem. Second. when was...

Check battery voltage while the key is in the start position. If it drops below 10 VDC time for a new battery.

First check your model number, nothing comes up with the number you posted. This manual might help but is for a different model. https://www.toro.com/getpub/48881

It could, but you need to open the manual I attached, read portions and try doing some of the tests.

Maybe one of these site will help you better understand how the carb works. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showatt.php?attachmentid=5145893&d=1347304698 http://www.baja5b.lv/wp-content/uploads/teh-info/Walbro%20Carburetor%20Theory.pdf

Did you do any of the tests listed in the manual? How old is the battery?

Ok, again I’m learning something new.

The Briggs service manual says you can hone the cylinder if you have the proper tools. I’ve done it many times over the years and if you are just wanting to just redo the cross hatching, I would recommend using a fine grit ball hone. Make sure you have one for your cylinder, aluminum or cast...

When you replaced the switch are you sure you purchased an exact replacement? Many switches look the same, but when you look at the two switches side by side the terminals may be labeled differently. When you post back please include the units model and serial numbers located on th ID tag...

Did your reset the governor when you replaced the carb? Why did you repeat the carb? Did you purchase a new OEM carb or get one off FleaBay which says this will work on your engine? What was, the part number for the replacement carb. These answers will help us help you. Please post the...

Here is a service manual for Briggs engines, which explains the procedure for testing the charging system. When you post back please identify which charging system your have. https://www.briggsandstratton.com/content/dam/briggsandstratton/na/en_us/Files/FAQs/alternator_replacement.pdf

I don’t know of any small engine which uses a belt driven alternator. Please post your units model and serial numbers, plus all engine numbers, so we have a better idea of what you have. Also what is the reason you are in need of a replacement.

Update. This morning I decided to start over. Installed original coil on unit and hooked everything up as it is supposed to be. Unit started up and ran good. Released emergency stop and engine stopped, no spark. Started again and ran for 10 minutes to heat up coil, figuring I might have a...

Might want to also want to check the bushing on the sector gear.

I know they cost more, but from your description I would recommend a Kubota tractor T-Series. Better yet G-Series, but costs even more. With Kubota you get what you pay for.

Did you check the bushings on both the top and bottom of the shaft? If they are worn the gears will not allow the gears to mesh properly.

Here is a service manual for Lawn Boy drive system which might help. https://www.toro.com/getpub/22446

95% of the time I see fuel leaking into the crankcase, it will be on a fuel system where the fuel tank is located above the carb, with NO fuel pump. In this case the most common cause is the float needle is not sealing the carb bowl. Most common remedy is to replace the float seat, and/or...

If it had a mouse problem I’ll bet you’ll find a frayed wire somewhere. This will test your patience as a technician.

I’m a Kubota guy so I will always recommend going to the Kubota guys. They will have a better idea of what to look for, plus will have easier access to replacement parts if needed. Read my signature.

Could you model number be an AV, not AE?

Remove the spark plug and see if it pulls freely. If not you will have to take a look at your belts and see if something changed. When you post back include the serial number, as there are 2 variations of that model. I should have a service manual for your unit.

I just did what I tell people not to do, I threw a good used coil on the the unit. NO change, boy I must be stupid. Did change one other thing in my testing procedure. Up to this morning I have been testing for spark by spinning the flywheel by hand, no plug sealing the cylinder. This...

You are correct, NOTHING KILLS THE SPARK. I was leaning toward a bad magneto, but didn’t want to toss one in until it was my last resort. I’ve been doing this a long time and I’ve never run into this problem before. Can’t get a new coil until Monday, so I’ll be running this through my brain...

I’m getting old, but I should be able to figure this out. I get good spark all the time. Kill switch connected and grounded, good spark. Kill switch open, good spark. Kill wire disconnected at the magneto, good spark. Good jump lead connected to a good ground, good spark. I know many here...

The old Tecumseh engines need. The J8 plug, due to the type of ignition system having points. Totally different magneto.

Most 28M707 engines did not have an oil filter.

Most 28M707 engines did not have an oil filter.

Sorry to say this but, only you can answer that question. We are not standing next to you to see your problem. From your description we would be swapping belts to find one which will fit, because a different engine means different belt size.

Craftsman number crosses to a Tecumseh engine model TVS 120 - 63918J. First, if you purchase the carb from FleaBay or AutoScam I’m will to bet it is bad. Cram shoot when purchasing there. I’m guessing that your original carb is still good, just needs a good cleaning and the replacement of carb...

As I said each person and each situation is different. Each of us does what we feel is best for us individually and our business. I’ve done both, given it away and gotten my attorney involved. Being a retired instructor I’ve learned a long time ago, that you can’t fix stupid, so I charge for...

Every person and every situation is different. Each time you ask yourself “What do I do now and still get a go nights sleep tonight?” If you tell us you’ve never given away a job at no or extremely no cost, you’re lying to all of us. We’ve all lost $$$$ doing what is the right thing. Don’t...

I’m pretty sure that the model number is 92908 0703 01 682109. Using those number the engine was built in 1968. Finding a wheel cover is going to be a little difficult. Might what to try this site. https://www.mylawnmowerforum.com/threads/1968-v21-the-first-of-the-v-series-snappers.52585/

NEVER strike a starter with anything to is if it works. Internal magnets are very brittle. I suggest you take a battery voltage reading when the ket is in the start position. Dropping below 10VDC indicates a bad battery. If above I would be checking ALL connections between the battery...

You’re a good DAD trying to do the right thing. I would suggest 2 things to help him out and keep his interest. Using the engine numbers you should be able to find him a free Briggs service manual PDF on the internet. Second, I wound contact your local JD dealer and buy a service manual for...

Just grab your TIG welder and drill press and everything will work out. Might need new piston pin.

Washer part number is Briggs 271716. Should be available anywhere Briggs parts are sold.

Post the model, type and code numbers for the engine, located on the shroud about the spark plug. Original bag was white.

If you would post the model, type and code numbers for the engine, it would help your cause. With out them we have no idea which of the hundred different 17 HP engines Briggs produced.