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Amazon Chinese carb alert!!!!!!

Remember that is an aluminum block and manifold. Lock washers and thread lock goo might be useful. Think 15-20 ft lbs is a plenty. Go off what is in the engine manual for torque. I would spray the gasket with Permatex HI-Tack gasket sealer spray.

Think that is an air screw. Should be 1-1.5 turns out. Check your engine manual to be sure. Going off a weak memory LOL. Make sure the fuel pickup tube is not cracked. Also needs to be off the bottom of the tank a smidge. Newer carbs do not have any adjustment screws. Older ones did. Most...

I would check the carb intake manifold to block. Briggs uses really thick gasket like 3/16" or thicker there. Chinese Amazon/Ebay carbs come with half the thickness of a Briggs gasket. That is step 1. Step 2 is lap the intake manifold face and engine block areas. Every manifold I've seen is...

Any mice in your area?

On a 10 yo engine, I would clean the cooling fins first thing. Hard starting is either valves out of whack or clogged/dirty carb. Could be several other things. De-carbonize the cylinder as your engine manual states. Lap the cyl head flat with a piece of plate glass and 220-800 grit wet/dry...

Didn't pickup on a word I typed out. Good luck with it sir.

Take the starter apart. Clean the shaft the Bendix rides on. Polish her up good. Reinstall and test. This is the fastest fix for THIS issue. Could be something else causing this as others have said.

I've seen on a Simplicity mower a high mounted tank with an onboard pump on the Kroller engine. Not for nothing. OP has a Troy Bilt.

You should be running full throttle all the time. As in all the time. No reason to idle down a mower engine. Full revs for max cooling and lubrication. Also cuts and vacuums better.

Probably never had a coolant dump either. So how is the blade balance now? Rubbing can remove material. Bending blades can change things as well.

You said the blades come on okay. Then nothing happens, not sure what that means then engine dogs down. Confused.

Just a few off the top of my head. 1.Valve adjustment. 2.Low compression. 3.Weak spark. 4.Clogged/plugged air filter. 5.Dirty carb. 6.Bad deck bearings. 7.Bad deck pulleys. 8.Grass built up under the deck. 9.Deck is too low in the grass. 10.Tires are under inflated. Normal for this time of the...

Break out the shovels. Dig the sucker out.

To me, a crimp is no good unless you can slice it apart and see a solid blob of copper. Always like to add a dab of solder to the exposed copper on the connector for a 1-2 punch. I prefer soldering and marine grade heat shrinking with the adhesive goo inside it. Depends on what tools I have...

All the young people. Old timers never had this issue. They would walk the yard prior to mowing. Wisdom at it's best.

Never thought of that. Perfect sense.

LOOK at the threads. Use magnification if needed and good light.

Didn't read all this. Make you own tool to fit. This ain't the space program. Might visit a local school welding shop. Muffler shops can weld small projects. Have one at a muffler shop right now.

I would take a ratchet/socket yearly, check for head bolt snugness. Simple see if it turns from being loose. Not trying to apply much torque. Better yet the ol' torque wrench. Only takes two shakes of a lambs tail. Clean the cooling fins while you are at it. I know what cooling fins?

At least post a picture of the mowers. Maybe someone here can narrow it via visual ID. I agree, never seen any split electrodes in a mower engine. Must be those E3 racing plugs with an extra 75HP each.

Don't forget the under side of your mower decks. Right about now is great for them. Not many are cutting grass at the moment. Slather it on with an old paint brush.

Pull the oil stick. Smell for fuel. Wondering if you have a trickle of fuel getting into the cylinder causing hard starts. Should pump out with the plug/s out. Either you have compromised + and - cables, weak ground, weak starter or the same on the solenoid. Something is suspect. Didn't do...

Mix it 50/50 with Diesel or spray on direct to your wooden stockade fence. Excellent way to recycle used motor oil. 100 plus year old farmers trick. Do it to my fence every two years. Still looks like new from our 2017 install. Neighbors full cedar is looking rather weathered about now. Diesel...

Only flaw I've seen on that engine was lack of de-carbonizing the cylinder. That is the only way it will smoke and later fail. Chunks of carbon fall into the cylinder and lodge next to the rings scoring the bore.

Use the screen material to reinforce the area. My plastic welding kit has stainless screen mesh to beef up areas. I use zip ties on small cracked stuff for a filler. Fixed two trimmer tanks this way. Still not a leak.

Either valve adjustment if possible, weak/dead battery or corroded battery connectors. Clean and inspect the ground cable first. Do voltage drop tests with the circuit UNDER LOAD.

Not a mention about any grounds being checked or looked at. Lot of people replace everything on the positive side and give up. ??? Clean the grounds and check for connector tightness. Polish grounding areas down to clean bare metal. Star grounding washers are your friend. Starts fine with...

This is the BEST mower forum on the net. Great group of people on here. My comment was about all these companies leaving the gas mower biz. Honda, Snapper and numerous others are basically gone. New mowers or should I say good mowers are hard to find now. Like the older Snappers that live for...

Check kill wire. Most could use a rewire if old and abused.

THERE'S YOUR SIGN........... Love it!!

Again this oil is not for the space program guys. Take used oil from your car. Dump it in your mower. Will be just fine. Farmers have been doing this for decades.

To me a scored cylinder is excess carbon chunks coming out of the cylinder getting next to the rings and gouging the bore. Every engine manual states at say 5 years, must clean and decarbon the cylinder/s.

Not good if the pistons do not move.

Because Honda is out of the mower business. People selling parts to get rid of them.

Need to find the mower model number and engine numbers for engine parts.

Most people look at the + cables and give up. Or check a fuse again being + in nature. Totally forget the - side of things.

1.Thorough degrease. 2.Check oil level. Man, was going to make a list. Very good question, where to start. Where's the top cover engine shroud? Don't run it without that. Clean the cylinder cooling fins. The voltage regulator is not mounted nor grounded. Don't try to start it till this...

When changing the head gasket. did you lap the block head gasket surface and the head? I've never seen one come off, and be flat or near flat. YMMV. Bertsmobile knows a guy that can make solid core copper head gaskets. Think holy grail of gaskets. I use Permatex hi-tack spray sealant on most...

Man I hope you find the part. Sad these great mowers are going extinct from lack of parts.

Those are long gone by now. You are talking about a blade brake clutch right? I made a blade spacer to lower the blade in the deck to combat this issue.

Best bagger on planet Earth is a Snapper Hi-Vac deck with the Snapper lift kit bolted to the blade. Nothing comes close, end of message. Used every mower out there. Most are disappointing. You can slap 7 blades together and not surpass this mark.

Typically you want the starter body grounded to the - post. Why? Starter on many vehicles is the biggest amp draw on said vehicle. Now car stereos car easily surpass a car starter so things change with a mega car system. Glad to hear you got her fixed.

Used to run everything dry several years ago. Noticed trimmer lines and mower lines would get hard from being dry for a couple months. Was a yearly or bi-yearly chore replacing fuel lines. Started using Stabil fuel stabilizer year round. Even use during mowing season. Reason is I never have...

Look up on youtube the big 3 or big 4 upgrade. Talking about improving the wiring in cars and trucks with stereo systems pulling massive amperage. All circuits need testing UNDER LOAD. Engine off testing gets you na-da. Need a good ground strap from the engine, frame and body. All tie together...

Remove the fuel line AT the carb or FI pump outlet. Drain into a glass jar. Look for water at the bottom. E-10 and water is a common thing. Like right now, 35 at night and 70 in the day, You get condensation in the bottom of the tank.

Vent open on the fuel cap? After fire solenoid sticking? Good fuel flow AT the carb? Can you fill the fuel tank and see a solid flow while emptying the tank out 100%? This should negate bugs and junk in the fuel tank.

I would say yes.

Pictures and youtube videos help us a lot to assist you. Read up on resizing images or put up a youtube video and link it here.

Going with stuck open carb needle. Should of pulled the oil dipstick and smelled for fuel. Heavy black smoke is excessive unburned gasoline.