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They made several lengths as upup said. Think more than 2. What ever, it's a low number. You will need the old white bag for the white handle push bar. Doubt if the new bags fit. I have both at the house. White bags are a good bit smaller. Good thing the deck hasn't changed in decades. Bet in a...

THAT one specifically? I would pass on it. That is the newer style with a Snapper name on it. I would get an older unit if it were me. Think mine is a 331415BVE series 15. Those are the heavy built REAL Snappers.

That link is for a KAI engine. Don't think the OP's has a KAI on it. Should be the older style FJ180V.

Carb linkage must be setup proper following the Kawi manual. If you push the rev lever all forward, it should stumble as the choke should be on. Should feel a detent about 3/4 throttle where no choke passes to choke. Low idle speed is like 1750 rpm. Fast or high idle is 3600rpm. Your engine...

Was this recently tipped over?

Multimeter on Ohms. Go from - batt post to reg ground screw. What do you get?

They offer a plastic and metal choke lever engine. Which is yours? Use the links below. Parts for that engine are cheap. https://generatorguru.com/tg3600-plastic-choke-handle/ https://generatorguru.com/tg3600-metal-choke-handle/ Here is your full carb rebuild kit...

Does that reg require a ground to make it work? With that voltage drop, you have a bad ground or faulty hot wire some place. Post reg should be 13'ish+ volts.

Can't believe you offered this up. I put this out a while back. Tons of guys said never snip the plunger. I do the snip deal all the time. Shut off the fuel with an inline valve, all good playboy. Or get a small bolt with the same threads as the solenoid.

That is an after fire solenoid. Battery voltage holds the plunger down away from the carb or detracts the plunger. No power to the solenoid extends plunger shutting off fuel to carb main jet.

Pull the oil checker stick. Smell for fuel. Could be carb needle is sticking open, choke stuck partially or fully closed or plugged up air filter. Valves ever checked?

You can find a kit on say propartsdirect for just one to throw out there. They have zama carb kits. Call propartsdirect. Should have a toll free number.

Dude, that is SPOT ON. I hear zero missing slash misfires. It is a mower with cheap ignition components. Not some fiber optic ignition pickup kit mega blaster deal. Mow some tall grass and take a video. Meaning put her under load. Again this last video tells me you did a good job repairing her...

Guess I've always listened to mowers and such. Over time can tell fast or slow. I can tell if one is giving the gundy or not. Agree on buying cheap. Most of us don't have repair shops and might not use said tool daily. I still have a fleabay tach with the inductive wire you wrap around the plug...

1.Dead auto compression release or valve adjustment. Would start there.

To me, sounds like a leaky needle and seat. Those need to be pressure tested to 7psi. Spray some lube on the needle, needle must be wet. Test for 30 minutes. Should not drop in psi. That tells you nothing. Need to remove it from the carb body. Turn the key on and off. The plunger should extend...

If the fuel lines were dead, betting the diaphragms inside the carb are too. Install all new fuel lines and filter. Throw a carb kit in her.

No. There is a comment in ALL mower manuals about removing carbon say every 5 years. Check your maintenance items out in your manual. Clean cooling fins and some de-carbon action are highly over looked. Carbon will not work itself out. Once you de-carbon one you will get your answer. Most have...

LOVE the desire to get the kids involved in post 22. Get a junk pushed to the curb mower. Push it at the boys. Tell them to take it ALL APART. Reassemble and test it. Have them do all the work. You are there to instruct. Great project for winter.

If the pump was dead, the motor would burn up in no time. Air cooled can only go so far. There isn't a lot of oil in the valve cover like in a car engine for example. Especially a valve cover that is up high on the engine. Am I missing something here?

Just get some cheap flea-bay tach. You can listen to a proper running mower. Neighbor or youtubes. Match the revs up by sound.

That regal red and Krylons Cherry Red are all close. Nothing is perfect. Found that out on Snappers. Remember your deck is probably sun faded. Look for a red with a bit more brown to it. Some reds are a clean red. Some shift to blue and browns.

How do you know it's getting fuel? Have you pulled the fuel line where it connects to the carb? Do you have a solid stream of fuel there? Look at the back of the engine. There is a gray fuel on/off valve on the bottom of the tank. Trace the fuel line from the tank to the carb. If that valve is...

Watched the video again. Looks like that plastic Briggs carb. Verify choke is opening or not. Wire the sucker wide open with a bread tie. Test it out a few laps. Top me, longer it runs the more it smooths out. Like the choke is lazily opening. End of video sounded okay. Again revs sound low.

You know you need to blast it flat black with matching flat black rims LOL.

My grinder is better than yours. :D

I think so. I've never seen one run slower than 1500 for example on slow idle. You can call Kawi and ask. Should have a toll free number.

Is the fuel ON? Is this 2+ year old E-10? Do you have good gas flow AT the carb inlet? Carb emulsion tube spotless? Pilot circuit spotless? Main jet open? Valve clearances ever looked at? Does the choke work as normal? Guaranty the carb linkage is all messed up. Every used FJ180V I've had was...

Sounds to me, from your video, that the fast idle or max revs is too low. Crank her up to 3400 or 3600 revs and make another video. Bet she smooths out as she will be on the main jet then. The second video, where you appear for the second lap, the engine was running longer and seemed to be a...

Should be roughly 13.5VDC at fast idle, highest revs as others pointed out. A 3 volt DC drop is huge. You have wiring issues on the + side and possible the - side of the clutch. Start polishing some ground points, connections and so on. An under volt condition will draw more current to...

For a mower engine. that plug looks great. Little rich on the main jet. See all the black around the thread ring face? Seems a little wide. Go off what the engine manual states. Normally they are 4 an 6 thou for example. Again follow YOUR manual. Sounds like she is lean but the plug says...

H2O is heavier than gas???

Could have several dead deck bearings/spindles causing the low power.

Is it under powered or do you need to cut more often? Revs dropping in thick grass might be from dull blades. There is a lot more to blade sharpening than just shining up the bevel and reusing. Are you cutting wet grass? Dry grass is easier to cut than wet.

Glad to hear she is running again. EFI systems are really not that hard to diag. Create a vacuum leak and spray some type of fuel to watch the O2 sensor react. Make sure you have proper fuel pressure and flow.

With so many items replaced and never tested the old ones, I would make sure every wire at the key switch is connected proper. Use reading glasses if needed. I do..... If one wire is not in the correct spot....... Pull the spark plug/s. See if it cranks/spins over the engine. Were these new...

Drain the tank AT the carb inlet as instructed. Put fresh gas in. Mow away. Glad to hear you are close to getting her rollin'.

Don't forget sealing of the valves and several others. Most people never de-carbon the cylinders. Most will have an iceberg of carbon on the back side of the intake valve. That can hold the valve open. Valve seat might of came out. Head gasket?? Put shop air into the cyls. Listen for air leaking...

I would start there. Either the cooling fins are packed up or most likely a carb/fuel tank/fuel line and so on issue. Fuel tank plugged up? Solid stream of gas AT the carb inlet?

Ouch. Pics next time on something unfamiliar to you. Google your engine model number. Look for videos on youtube. Download your manual from the maker. Call the maker. Most have free numbers these days. Hold the spring like a detective. Re-enact the crime NCIS style. Look for round places to...

No doubt Commercial Grade all the way LOL.

I would start out with fresh non E-10 fuel. Drain all the old out AT the carb. Probably full of water. Watch for good flow AT the carb inlet. Report back. Sounds like you have spark. So now it won't physically turn over at all? Clarify does the motor turn over or not please. Could be a...

I would clean it prior to removing the carb. Try to keep any and all grit out of the engine.

Did this come from their warranty card? Makes no difference to me. If the batteries are covered so be it.

I threw away a brand new one in the Snapper box. Had another used one that was in mint shape. They both fit their RER decks. Corrected for my stupid incorrect answer. Had a push mower on the mind.

Doesn't specify mower or battery at all. "Product"....... Lots of battery tools you must buy the battery and charger separate, not all the time though.

WOW :eek:

Not many talk about this. On other items, I don't know about these mowers, batteries mostly are not covered. Only takes one dead cell to pull the entire pack down.

They sure do appreciate your business though. LOL Wow what a story. You better be scrounging face trash marketplace and such for a Commercial Snapper, Toro or Honda pusher. Not making those stellar machines anymore.

I haven't messed with mine in a decade now. Think that liner just rides in there to limit popping wheelies? I'd have to look that one up. Give the disk a little slide before it grabs and goes? Definitely not glued. Don't remember that at all. Snapper doesn't make cheesy junk that needs to be glued.