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The Kawasaki coil wires are carbon track units and they have had problems with continuity before. Ask me how I know. The plug boot connectors are just crimped around the cable with a small spike penetrating the sheath to contact the carbon coated string. Check these as well. I have replaced mine...

So much for QC.....guess no one used them in field trials before putting them on sale.

Might better use silicone grease if you use anything at all. Dow Corning 111 is immiscible in fuels. Lots of other uses as it is also a food grade product.

Bullshit.

But....but....there are those here who want you to buy another shitty pulley.....

Run an alternate ground then see if problem goes away. Length of wire with alligator clips works....

Nothing wrong with the old pulley 🤔. Betcha you can find someone to spot weld it back. Failing a spot weld, there is always the rosette method. Just drill holes through one of the halves and then holes through the other half but offset from the first set. Then any competent welder ( sometimes...

Beating the hell out of the cups on reinstallation? Get an 1.25 inch PVC plumbing union. The big screw on cap fits over the cup up to the ridge and the top of the cup is protected by the top of the union. A hammer and a small length of wood.

Beating the hell out of the cups on reinstallation? Get an 1.25 inch PVC plumbing union. The big screw on cap fits over the cup up to the ridge and the top of the cup is protected by the top of the union. A hammer and a small length of wood is all that's needed.

So...you must be that guy that just stays below 3000 feet MSL, never venturing above to watch the ambient pressure decrease requiring more throttle to maintain a climb or cruise at 8 to 12k feet until you're at full throttle anyway. I also find it comical that you either can't read and learn or...

Think of them as turbos.....two minutes at idle, no load. Marginal help but can't hurt.....

Not to dispute your assertion about cool, esp air cooled cool, but now I'd like to instrument one for cyl head and EGT temp and see what the numbers really are. I've got a 4 cyl Westach analog EGT kit that never got used but the thought of drilling a hole in the exhaust pipe just for curiosity...

Don't know much about engines, do ya. https://resources.savvyaviation.com/wp-content/uploads/articles_eaa/EAA_2012-10_flying-efficiently.pdf But of course, you know way more than these guys......

Piston aircraft engines with variable pitch props are almost always run full throttle unless the pilot doesn't understand altitude may be your friend or is just potting around with no mission or destination in mind. Unobstructed intake is always more efficient than one partially blocked off by a...

Both may be too short. 5/8" top sticks up above the stock sheeve and the effective length thus decreases. The bottom line is the top of the belt should be even with or just below the top level of the sheeve as there is not a lot of room coming off the tension pulley where the belt faces pass. I...

Not question just a heads up/education. I've had many folks say that if a belt has the right OEM number it's the right belt. T'aint so. Bad Boy belt number 041-5048-00, used on Pups and Lightnings and several others, has been seen on many belts but most are nowhere near spec and most are too...

You said AND using a tachometer....which wasn't debated nor omitted. Yes...my hearing is pretty damn good.

Years? Where did you come up with that? It will take me 20 seconds to teach you. It's not rocket science.

It's a two stroke. Effective compression ratio is at best 7:1, no 90 octane required. Manual ” If you mix the fuel yourself, use only STIHL two-stroke engine oil or another high-performance engine oil in accordance with JASO FB, JASO FC, JASO FD, ISO-L-EGB, ISO-L-EGC or ISO-L-EGD" Stihl oil not...

Valves are never open at TDC of the compression stroke and the rope is fed in just before it gets there. Two strokes are so much easier.....

Well....if you insist on putting it in with the valves open you deserve the grief.

Rope in the hole....🤔. Works every time but then you risk connecting rod damage if overly aggressive.

Small diameter nylon rope....stuff a couple of feet in through the plug hole.The pointy end of a stop just doesn't cut it for me....

Here is the companion video of the one I posted about "getting into the weeds" on this subject......a good explanation of coil failure modes.

Just in case you'd like to get way into the weeds.....here's how the coil works at the granular level.

https://www.roygripske.com/document-library/ga/kawasaki-service-manuals/FC290V-FC400V-FC401V-FC420V-FC540V-Service-Manual.pdf

From an FC290v engine manual..... https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/1976-engine-kawasaki-fc290v-fc420v-fc540v-sm-492-4210pdf/

Again....10W-30 IS 30 weight.

Before you buy another coil check continuity of the spark plug lead to the cap. A lot of these are carbon track plug wires meaning they have a carbon coated string as a conductor. And the carbon is dust. Over time the dust migrates out of the crimped connectors and then no spark. Damned seldom...

10W- 30 is 30 weight when it counts. I don't get this obsession with straight 30.

Coils so seldom "go bad". What does go bad in some cases is the plug cable....specifically the carbon core type. There is a carbon impregnated string that carries the electrical load and often the string's crimp contact with the plug connector isn't the best. I've fixed several with the...

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=20x8.00-10+tube&crid=1UJNJJ31EHVF7&sprefix=20x8.00-10+tube%2Caps%2C139&ref=nb_sb_noss_1 $132 and under for a set of tires on Amazon

Nah...no history. When statements are made that cannot be backed up with evidence....good hard scientific evidence instead of the Appeal to Authority type of "evidence" then it gets called out.

At this point I'm inclined to call your previous Appeal to Authority pitch on "expertise" complete bullshit and a lie. Your claim of a difference in mower oils and any other oils is hereby rejected. "Because I said so" is not proof and either is this last little bit of puffery.

Still no proof.

Check your tank for debris.....

Got proof for that car vs mower oil? Yeah.....thought so.

If you are post 18 and that info was divulged in post 13.....kinda important to lay it all out in post 1.

At this point, if it's a newish engine, I'd push for a whole new engine. Screw you having to fix their mistake. Get on the phone and send them a video of the rotating crank.....

Why? Wix doesn't work? https://www.oilfilter-crossreference.com/convert/KOHLER/2505040 That's how the internet works.

Well, got off my ass and looked at your rig’s setup. The filters are down on the transaxle/pump unit so it's a pretty monolithic unit. Page 35 and 36 of the owners manual are pretty clear about the procedure and torque values.Just make sure you have an inch/pound scale. Otherwise, I wouldn't be...

Sounds like crap engineering...or perhaps just limited space engineering. Each side of my ZT has its own filter but serviced by a common tank. In your case sounds like you'll have to do the air bleed just for the filter location/orientation. Amazon has plenty of suckers....😎.

Hydro systems with resevoir tanks are just like a standard automatic transmission...you'll never drain them completely and there is no need to do so. And never flush them out, auto trans or hydro. If you have filters replace those first, new ones filled with fluid on installation. Then if you...

21121-0709 on an FD731V. Non removeable at the coil end. Have to split the boot and carefully remove that to use the NGK screw on boot.

Well, I can assure you the Kawasaki coil is not one of the replaceables as it's moulded into the coil body. That's nice if you can replace the entire cable but here you can't so why throw away a good coil when you can replace a terminal. And it comes with a 90° terminal so there's that. There...

For anyone seeing this.....a lot of plug "wires" are what is called a carbon track wire...it has a length of carbon impregnated string. Yup, no metal involved at all. Over time, depending on the build quality, these fail to a weak or no spark condition at the plug. I replaced mine with NGK...

Geez....forgot all about this post. The cap never gets penetrated hence the divot comment. Water is no more a problem than if you'd done nothing and just parked it in the yard. The gauge continues to alternate illegible white to legible black...but now I don't care. Just an odd behaviour. If...

Are those composite floats or just really crusty brass floats? The composite floats are sometimes like the Bing composite floats and they absorb gas after the surface sealing fails making the float too heavy and the needle never closes. Thus, too rich as you say it appears to be.

Make sure you can get parts, l blade carriers, wear items. Kobalt been really bad about this.

Kaw sourced plug wires are carbon impregnated string core "wires" and they often don't make good continuity from the plug cable core to the plug cap as they are a crimped connection that has a couple of barbs that are pushed thru the cable sheath into the cable carbon track core. I had exactly...