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Yes, rings are likely worn out after 48 years continuous use. Yes, the engine moderately smokes. Because this is a splash oil system, will 100% Lucas fail to lubricate the top of the motor?

This tiller has sat in my crawl space under my house for decades, used every year or so. It's humid, but not dripping and no mold. The tiller has never been wet as in SC it seems to never rain. I'm figuring the humidity under my house eventually took a toll...

I'm looking to sell this tiller as I have no more need for it. I'm not keen on front tine tillers but this is only 18" across and isn't too hard to handle. Engine runs perfectly, uses no oil and starts on first pull. What's this old girl worth... $50?

I hand sanded the shaft with 100, then 220 fine sandpaper.

Fixed. Needed to tap out the shaft with copious amounts of oil applied.

No flood. Never pressure washed the tiller.

Thx StarTech, Should this sprocket/shaft assembly just slide out from the inside of the case if the bearing is free? I don't see any room for a spring clip to hold the shaft in the bearing. I'll clean and soak the assembly over the weekend and try to brake it loose using the vice technique.

I can hardly believe a ball bearing would seize up if I parked the tiller after running fine w/o damage.

Sorry Fellas, I know better to list the model #. It is model: 030212 - D282B

Another question... how is this input shaft fixed to the bearing tube welded to the sheet metal housing? Should it just slide out or is there a spring clip somewhere? Is there a needle bearing or does the shaft just ride on a bushing?

Thanks folks. I’m going to try a hybrid plan… first a good cleaning then I’ll soak the drive end in a bucket of diesel. Then I’ll try the vice method with a heavy dose of liquid wrench applied under the sprocket. I’ll update in a week.

I hit the end of the pulley shaft with a steel hammer thinking I could release it but it’s stuck. I didn’t hit it too hard instead hoping the penetrating oil might work over days. I don’t have needles/syringes. The external seal is so narrow that I don’t believe I can pierce it (1-2mm thick...

I parked my small mid-1970’s 3hp International Cub Cadet tiller two years ago running fine. Yesterday I started it up to till a small area and found the chain drive transmission locked. I disassembled the transmissions and found the input pulley shaft seized within its bearing. I’ve applied...

Is there a technique to measure engine speed (RPM) on single cylinder engines in general? I don’t want anything permanent; I only want to know if I’m reaching maximum spec’d speed.

So I replaced a bad Con Rod and installed new rings and am having problems getting the motor to start. This engine has been sitting for five years and I’ve finally got around to completing the rebuild. This is a 200000 seres OHV model that I bought new in 1993 in a Troybilt Chipper-Shredder...

Interesting spec for a larger INTEK B&S engine shows the crank diameter to be 0.001" under nominal.

My twenty year old 10 HP Briggs (205412-0120-E1) threw a rod and I’m in the process of rebuilding the motor with a new rod (694691) and rings. Problem is that the rod tightens onto the crank journal when the con rod bolts are tightened to 50% of spec (spec = 100 in*lb). Below are pics of the...