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Might look at a possible safety switch shutting you down - if it is doing the same thing after you worked on the fuel system - either you still have a fuel delivery issue or a safety switch is shorting out - I think if it was fuel you would see and notice a bad running machine before falling on...

It ain't the heat , it's hot everywhere - I've had over 100 degrees for 20+ days here and not seen anything like what you're describing and no one else is having this issue, it's something else in my opinion - Neve have I heard of gasoline boiling in a fuel tank

Not sure about that model but most likely you'll need to drop the hydro low enough to work the fan off, I know on mine and most I've see there is barely enough room to work the belt on

replace the carb or rebuild it, your needle valve is leaking

I think there may be a fuel return on this machine but either way pretty sure it needs a vent on the fuel tank

Doubtful - I'd look at a replacement - never seen one go bad but sure it can happen

Stick a small rod in the spark plug hole and roll it slowly and make sure the piston is moving up and down , if you threw a rod it will not be moving and if that's the case you needn't worry about a rebuild , just replace the engine or mower itself

Bearing puller will apply force at the thick part of the pully near the shaft and will not damage the outer edges of the pully

There is no set screw , use a 3 pronged puller and put some heat on it - concentrate the heat near the shaft area or you'll bend your pully on the outer area , keep applying pressure with your impact and keep your torch moving. I don't think a small propane torch will do but maybe worth a try...

post some pics if you can - I'm not following what you're saying

Just use any flat washer but use a Nylock nut so it wont back off from vibration - or use locktight on the threads

You probably have a fuel delivery issue- fuel pump or suction lines leaking air or collapsing internally, Being it starts up again when it's acting up , it does not sound like an ignition issue

If your rings are leaking you'd have lots of crankcase pressure blowing from either the oil fill cap, dipstick or any vent you have - would also be smoking like a train and plugs would be wet with oil residue .

mine are under the seat but it's a different machine

There should be a relay that reacts to the safety switches, My machine has about 4 I think and they are all the same - if yours has relays like this , swap them around and see if the problem goes away or switches to another area.

I'd doubt any cylinder is leak free, if it runs good and not smoking there is no worry , why are you doing a leak down or compression test? It's not a head gasket leak or valves leaking , if so it would be noticeable when it is running - my suggestion to every situation is " if it ain't broke ...

Is the linkage working ? does it move the throttle plate at all ? might have just come loose from the cable mount

The nut on the pully should be spinning with the Shaft - if it is not, then you're getting friction there and causing the heat issue. I'd pull the whole assembly , the shaft / bearings and pully will need to be replaced. This probably has a lock nut on it

Are you saying your blade speed is slow ? or your Drive system is slow , If it's your blade speed you'll need to look at the clutch

Could you have been feeling the fan around the flywheel ? I doubt it's your head gasket - a leaking head gasket probably would not show up as an oil leak , Clean it good and get your oil level right and run it again to verify where the leak is , take another few pics so we can get a better...

It's so dry here even the goats are looking for weeds / grass or anything

Some of these switches have dual contacts and only one side is used , you can move the wires over to the other 3 contacts and it works fine.

Just splice the wires yourself, they sell 3-4 and probably

Deck height shouldn't effect the deck belts only the Drive belt angle , mine needs high RPM's to engage initially then you can slow the machine down to where you like to run it.

Have you checked the spindles ? what about the idler pully and tension spring arrangement? What is the history on the machine ? Did you change anything when this started ?

Just splice the wires yourself, they sell 3-4 and probably multiple pin connectors at the auto parts house, just buy the female and it's counterpart male.

Better look at the wiring , test the switch with an Ohm meter , if it opens / closes the circuit it's either the wiring or a safety relay. Do any of the safeties work ? if so, swap the relays and see what happens

If the motor blew up and is shot , the pully ruined why pull it off anyway ?

No I'd imagine the lighter weight blades would not put enough strain on the machine and possibly let it run away, the governor should react and limit your rpms either way in my thinking. Just check the weight and go forward from there, make sure all your linkage is correct and free. I've never...

Better check your pto clutch

The ac voltage sounds about right, the DC output should be around 14volts or thereabouts , there is one terminal on the voltage regulator for this output , your volt meter should register DC voltage when the machine is revving up to operation speed. The starter relay only comes into play when...

This should have a washer the size of the metal bushing in the center so it does not contact the plastic part. These only last so long b/c there is no way to lubricate them to my knowledge. If it turns freely that's about all you can hope for. I've never torqued one , they usually come with a...

Check all your fuel supply lines for leaks , collapsed lines ,fuel pump operation etc.

This is a confusing issue, Makes no sense - Lets assume it's Not fire - now you will need to concentrate on fuel delivery , pump- filter- carb . You never say never in mechanical issues and cannot get too focused on one thing. I've learned this the hard way. Looking back on your post I see...

Has to be a different weight in the blades

Swap your spark plugs over and see if the same side drops off ,

If the same cylinder continues to drop off, it's an ignition issue - you installed new coils so now look at wiring

If it still runs on one cylinder it's doubful it's a fuel issue since they both use the same carb. One of your coils must be bad, If you can tell which cylinder keeps running and which one quits, swap the coils on each and see if the problem stays on the same cylinder or if it moves - this will...

Automatic chokes are garbage , No matter , shoot some starting fluid in the carb first to see if it tries to run, if so , you have a fuel problem and work to that end. if it doesn't try to run with starting fluid , it's ignition so go that direction before spending money on stuff you don't need.

The important part of the coil is on the open end - if it fits up to the flywheel that's all you need really - does the length stop the cover from fitting up? Wouldn't recommend grinding on the coil , might change up the cover if it's touching off .

Install a new plug , if it's wet looking it's not firing - there's your power loss, The type of gas you used does not effect the rings / compression etc. It's just a lower octane and does not deliver the needed power for your machine. I suffered through a tank of this by keeping the machine...

Your ignition key switch needs 12 volts for the Run position / 12 volts for start , the wiring is not right for sure a wire coming from under the flywheel cover should be your ignition source, the coil generates the spark , to the plug start at that wire and see if it's got anything if not work...

bypass the solenoid and see it it kicks over

Put a new air cleaner Asap, may as well change the fuel filter too, then start over- if it starts up again after stopping it's most likely a fuel supply issue.

Can't help with the manual but someone here can, Make sure you have the belt routed correctly they're easy to get wrong - How was it doing before the belt change ? A little background goes a long ways in trying to trouble shoot the problem

Not sure about this model but worst case drop the clutch , no big problem - it's for sure easier to swap the belt

pull the switch out of the fit and move it while a test light is hooked up and see if it's the switch being funky it's either the switch or wiring to the clutch - Rarely have I run into a bad clutch but it's possible

it's either loose or bent out of shape , remove it and inspect then re attach , make sure nothing is in the way keeping it from moving up and down , do it manually and see where the binding is if any

Check all your connections if they all look good run another 12 volt supply to the clutch independent of the regular switch , if it goes away , it's the switch itself, - also make sure your battery voltage is up to snuff. A fully charged battery might be the problem either the battery is getting...

That E10 fuel does not have the octane to run properly, If your plug was gray in color this is a sign of a clean burning engine, clean up the engine with something so you can see where your leak is