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There is probably a kill solenoid under the carb bowl that needs 12 volts from the ignition switch , you should hear it click when you turn it to the On position. Check with a test light to see if it's getting a signal.

Try that again while touching off on ground with your hand , if it is a good spark it should make your muscles react

Did you set the gap on the coil / magneto ? Not sure what the setting is but probably .010-.020 or thereabouts to start and see if it generates a spark,

Remove it and take a few pics , go on Amazon and begin your search for a briggs engine carburator, compare each until it matches up with yours , I've found a few replacements like this

Make sure you don't have a bad or binding deck pully first , if that's free pull the belt off the pto and engage while watching it spin / or not and see how the engine reacts. There could be a safety switch shorting out or some such.

You probably still have a dirty carb which comes from a dirty fuel system , tank, fuel lines, filter etc. if the carb was dirty at first and the tank and fuel supply system wasn't cleaned up too ,it got contaminated again I'd say

Stator is either bad or dirty, clean up really well try again and make sure your meter is on the right scale when testing

I've never seen this but if you can spin your deck by hand - I would spin each one individually and see how it sounds and feels - you can tell if one is dragging or not. But having said that and you're confident there is nothing binding there, pull your PTO wires off and run a separate 12vt...

Is there a deck spindle binding up or a bad bearing somewhere ?

DC voltage should be around 14 I think, Don't think it normally fluctuates but needs nearly full throttle to be up there. There are some good videos on Utube for testing the voltage.

Well if it's running at all the flywheel key is not a problem, sounds like you're moving in the right direction , only runs at low rpm if the linkage is moving the throttle plate then you probably have a carb problem.

Pull your breather and see if the problem persists

I think I've read on here there are conversion kits to get around this keypad garbage

Sounds like a fuel supply issue start at the tank and work back to carb , filter - hoses- pump etc

I've gotten a number of carbs off Amazon and most have fit the bill just fine, maybe just been lucky but having said that just because you swapped the carb does not mean you've eliminated the carb as an issue.

You can pull everything off the top, expose and remove the nut, an impact is best but get it off and look at the keyway, you should be able to see if it's off the fit. Does not take much for the timing to be off and will not run as such, This can happen via a backfire or hitting something while...

Pull the plug and turn it over with the plug grounded , it should be really easy to spin and you can watch for a tiny spark at the plug. If it has a spark, re install and give it a squirt of starting fluid in the air cleaner and try and start, if it still a no go, you'll need to check the...

You're goin to need to give us more information to go on like when was the last time it ran, what has changed since it was running etc. Just a little history would help us trouble shoot better

check your fuel pump , might be some debris in the valves stopping it from operating like it should , there are 2 small check valves and most are not repairable.

When did it start doin this ? Was anything changed ?

I think they recommend revving up to full throttle before engaging the blades then you can regulate back to slower speed after the governor kicks in

It sounds like you have a safety switch acting up Might try and bypass one at a time and see if you can isolate where it is

Re set the timing and install new blades , if the spindles turn and feel smooth they're probably ok I've never seen this set up but after installing the new blades spin by hand and see how it looks then run it and test the cutting - if it looks ok , I'd say run it .

It should disengage when the machine starts , the momentum of the ring gear should shoot it back down to it's normal position, I had one that didn't disengage once and drug the motor down b/c it kept it in a bind , you can pull it and lube it up real good and make sure the springs are in tact...

Back the nut off to where it's even with the flywheel Shaft, put pressure on 2 points 180 degrees apart and pop the top of the nut/ shaft with a good ball pene hammer and it's going to pop off. No puller necessary , I've taken off so many like this I loose count

Hot cable ends indicate bad connection , clean that up first and test the battery to make sure it's the right CCA and look at those connections as well as the ends at the starter and grnd. If all those are tested good , pull the starter and bench test it - does not sound like your solenoid to...

Yeah I think the flywheel and ring gear are together - Look at Amazon and / or Ebay for a used flywheel or replacement for that model , short of that it would be someone who works on these and has some old parts /engines laying around. Odd that it is only 4 months old and the starter teeth are...

Never seen a fuel supply come from the top of the tank , you may be looking at a return line

Ohh Yeah with any type of fuel pump

Are you looking at a manual valve ? If so I would put it before the filter so you can change filter out without loosing fuel, your carb bowl probably has an automatic fuel shut off for when you kill the engine.

Usually a tiny hole right on the same lever the larger rod fits onto .

Hook up Jumper cables to a hot battery and see how it reacts

You have done everything I would have - Don't rule out you have replaced a component that is still the problem.

I always use Permatex Gasket sealer on one side , Don't put anything on it until you are ready to put the 2 halves together, Use sealer or whatever you like only on one side in case you need to take it apart again , the gasket will hold and you should be able to re use it not having to scrape it...

If they're all the same you got some spares , you don't need more than one, Sometimes they'll put several different types to fit a various assortment of engines

If it does not hit when using starting fluid it would seem to be ignition - if you have spark you'll need to look at the timing - maybe sheared the keyway on your flywheel - it does not take much. Did he hit something hard while mowing ? Hold your finger in the spark plug hole while cranking it...

I've seen both a drain plug and having to tip the mower over, if there's a plug it will be on the base or underneath the machine , doesn't hold much so it's pretty easy.

If you having to run it with the choke you're starving for fuel , look at your carb first

Most times you need to rev it up almost full throttle when engaging the clutch , then you can moderate your speed to where you want it

Park the machine on a level surface and measure each side's ground clearance - if it's 1/4" or thereabouts I would not worry about it - as for leaving strips of unmowed grass That would not have anything to do with a level / unlevel deck - How old are your blades ? they tend to wear on the...

Well it wouldn't be running if he dropped a push rod or a valve

I got a set off Amazon and they worked fine

The exhaust side will be hot but not the intake - Never really checked valve cover temps on any engine, On large industrial engines if you felt the intake was hot it told me I had a burnt valve

Put 12 volts on the solenoid and see if it engages, Just clicking like you say sounds like a bad battery connection You can Jump across the larger terminals on the solenoid - if the starter reacts to that you know the starter is good but solenoid is not. Lots of the machine have extra wiring...

I've rewired a few machines and did away with all the safeties but that's me

I usually drive a couple of chizles at 90 degrees apart then hit the top of the crankshaft with a 2 lb ball pene hammer a good lick and it pops up for me - Do that and apply a little heat if it does not pop up for you

Depends on how thick the cut grass is , real thick will cause dead spots where it sits or lays. thinner stuff just sorta goes away and doesn't really hurt anything , I only rake and gather mine when it's really thick.

If it's firing and starting up - it's not your coil in my opinion, I think you have a fuel issue somewhere , coils either fire or not , fuel problems however behave like you're describing

Looks like you got lucky - a new rod might just be all you need along with gaskets etc.

Make sure your crankcase isn't damaged. Valves maybe bent and head could be scored up too