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Idler pullys are wide to allow for some mis alignment , as long as the spring tension lets the pully float it should be good in my opinion.

The primer bulb should pull from the tank and produce a small squirt of fuel into the carb throttle body you should be able to see and feel this action , if not it's probably sucking air .Once the machine starts there is a diaphram type of fuel pump which sees a pulse from the crankcase action...

Auto parts will have a " small engine" area and will have something for you

Something must have slipped on that lever action I suppose, pictures would help - Maybe just swap the carb with a new, I just got one for 14$ or thereabouts on Amazon for my Briggs

Disconnect the cable first and see if it's moving freely , these cables rust up internally over time , if ends up being the cable , pull both ends off and pull it back and forth around something round and lube it up good , it should free up , or buy another

If it spins over good and smoke is coming out of the exhaust, you're getting fuel to the combustion chamber, if you need starting fluid to make it fire all the time you may have a compression problem

Clarify please

Most don't have shut off valves , Just pull the supply line and stick a plug of some sort in it , best to get an in line valve and install it at this point for later. Have it ready with hose clamps and you should be good to go

Not sure how old your battery is but they're not good for more than 2 season at best in my opinion. The magneto / rectifier rarely go bad but it's possible.. If you put a volt meter on the battery will the machine running near full throttle ,it should read 14 volts or better, A true alternator...

You're not going to get any help from Bad boy, from your description you have a carburator problem or fuel problem , if it will only run while choked , it's starving for fuel, change out your fuel filter and pull the line off at the fuel pump and see if it's flowing freely. Most machines do not...

If a safety was giving you problems the machine wouldn't even turn over , click or anything else so you don't have a safety switch problem in my opinion, The PTO switch needs 12 volts on one of the wires , use a test light and hook it up to ground and touch off on each terminal of the switch...

I doubt you have an alternator as such , you most likely have a magneto / rectifier with voltage regulator, If you have 12 volts and no action from the battery it's going to be a safety holding you out or a bad connection Jump across the two big terminals on your solenoid and if it responds by...

Pull the plug and try to roll it over , if it still will not turn over, this engine is most likely seized, your blades are moving freely but does not mean your engine is rolling over.

Well now you know it's a fuel delivery problem , I'd start at the tank and work down from there , fuel lines , filter ,then carb. some fuel lines can collapse internally and cause problems,

Sometimes a faulty ignition coil will cut out after getting hot and cause it to die, after cooling off it will fire again Next time it dies after mowing and will not start , check to see if it's still firing, this should give you an idea if it's ignition or fuel

I guess a better description of what exactly it's doing would be in order, Does it start up fine then run a while , start to miss then die out ? How long does it run before problems arise ? Is the new plug make it any better or does it stay the same ? Did you notice anything in the tank when...

Spec no. KT 745-3031 I pulled both Kill wires off and tried , found no spark , One of the plug wires was cut nearly in two , it appeared that side has not been firing off for some time b/c the plug was carboned up bad - I think this guy was running on one cylinder for quite a long time then the...

Well it's definatly fuel so go back through the carb and start over with cleaning etc.

Kohler KT 745 Serial no. 4506209833

No fire from the coils , pulled the ground wire off , cleaned and re set the gap on flywheel. It's odd but looks as if both coils failed , can't imagine what else it could be, Any ideas anyone ? Thanks

Look at the wiring for the PTO , from your description it dies as soon as you engage the clutch, Pull the plug off the pto and engage it again , if it kills the machine there is a short to ground from that switch and not the PTO assembly. If it kills the machine start chasing wires and see where...

Pull the seal and get a number off it

12 volts to key switch - from there go to the small terminal on your solenoid, battery cable to large terminal on solenoid, other side of the solenoid ( large terminal ) to starter lug. you'll need voltage supply to your voltage regulator from your key ( on ) position - the Off position on the...

I only try and help and think I usually do. Anyone posting here for help will take advise for what it's worth. I have no access to technical manuals etc. Only from experience. No need to bad mouth anyone here.

I know it's a new carb but sounds like it has a port that may be dirty , your tank might have trash in it

No downside to anything you've done, It may happen again since it's been bent once already.

Make sure it's not your clutch clicking on b/c your blade switch is in the on position , it will not let you start.

Make sure your air filter is clean or not stopped up with dirt, there may be an adjustment screw on that carb , most don't these days. Guessing you have clean gas , that E85 stuff can make it run rough . Might take the carb off and clean it up real good

99% it's Counter clock wise to brake it out , never saw one that is left handed thread

Woodruff key's are there mainly to protect your engine drive assemlby, Why yours they usually shear when you hit something solid and keeps you from bending a shaft or other damage. If it happens again you'll need to dig further to find out why

Sounds like it's still dirty, but carbs are pretty cheap so go for it I say

There are seals and bearings in that gear box , It's a pain to rebuild but I've done a few, Be real careful when tearing into it - there are shims and gears and bearings that need to come off the drive and driven shafts and need to be re assembled in a certain order.

You probably have a jet plugged in the carb, pull the needle valve and the seat , there is a jet under there that has very small holes , easily plug with small particles , you should be able to see through every hole when you hold up to the light.

You can lap the valves with a little lapping compound, How does the compression stack up other than leak down ? Carbon can score the cylinders and is very abrasive , side to side indicates worn valve guides and can be a cause for smoke / low compression lack of power etc.

If you got good compression and fire , that leaves only fuel as the problem, Timing is not an issue since it runs on one cylinder so concentrate on fuel delivery.

EV world aint all it's cracked up to be , Everyone going to be disappointed in my opinion

Depends on the type of meter you have , some sense a pulse from the magneto and read then , if it requires 12 volts then it should read as such when the key is in the On position I installed one on my outboard and if I remember right there weren't any wires to hook up it just picked up a signal...

Pull the wires off at the connection , check both to ground - only one should read ground , engage the switch and see if you have 12 volts on the other wire , if test passes , re connect and engage the switch and listen to the PTO , it should click and engage.

I swapped on a while back and just changed the pully out along with it, had to get a different drive belt because the different pully was not the same diameter. I've seen sleeves from the factory to fit up the clutch / drive assembly before so someone makes them

I think you got about all you goin to get out of that battery. Upgrade will not hurt though

If the needle and seat are holding , it will only allow so much fuel into the bowl, I've used electric fuel pumps on these guys with no problems as to fuel pressure being too high etc. To my way of thinking only the carb or it's settings would make it run too rich, not sure there are any...

Has this happened all of a sudden or a gradual thing ? Is it smoking Black / blue / white ?

Paint my fence with it

Right Huskavara , don't know how to spell it

i've used bad boy mowers for a long time without any issues kuskys have a good Track record as well , I usually stick to Kohler or Kawasaki motors - Not a big fan of Kubota just because they're hard to work on in my opinion , Also stay away from Key pad touch control machines they're trouble .

Don't give up on this forum there are a lot of smart guys here and give good advise, you're problem is unique in that it does not add up logically but Lots of times this happens, my mind set is to keep an open mind when trouble shooting a problem. ( like you installed a new plug but the new...

Stick a straight rod like a coat hanger or welding rod through the plug hole and feel where the piston is , if you can roll the flywheel while doing it you can watch the piston position by seeing the rod go up and down

While it's locked as you say , pull your plug and use a straight rod and see what position the piston is in, Curious if it's BTC or TDC.

Can you feel any compression when the plug is out and you pull the cord ? This will expose a lot

Could be a starter issue