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Mainly because the first part of your statement, causes the second part of your statement. When you have to remove the engine from the mower to replace the spark plugs, or removing the drain plug or oil filter dumps oil either onto the belts, or the right hydrostat and then misses the drain pan...

Because the side that faces the ring gear has a beveled tooth edge to lead into the flywheel when the starter is engaged.

When it comes to ATV and UTV's customers will repair their toys. Cost is normally not a concern. A customer that will not repair their Z turn that needs a $2,500 engine replacement won't even blink when writing the check for $2,500 for engine repairs on the UTV.

You got caught in the new system. The Community leaders can approve threads or in the case of spam delete the thread. Since it looks like you have been approved you should be able to post normally.

For better assistance it would help if we had the model and serial number of the mower from under the seat so we don't have to guess which of the various models of XT1 you have. Also the Model and spec of the Kohler/Rehlko engine from the tag on the engine is still readable..

About the only thing I find AI good for is checking for what temperature to set my pellet grill for smoking a meat I haven't done before.

Appears engine is a 25T235-0110-G1, But being on a generator the fuel tank and cap may not be part of the engine diagrams, and instead will be part of the generator itself. Generator model number should be a tag on the inside of the generator frame next to the engine.

Using Star's model information the O2 sensor should be part 24 418 05-S

Welcome to the site. Just make sure to post the actual model and serial number from the tag under the seat. XT1 covers several different models over several different years, and can changes could of been made. MTD is not know to have updated service manuals, so that may be hard to locate if...

When they start paying me my hour labor plus parts to destroy parts on purpose just to get pictures we will provide them.

Welcome. Feel free to look around, and if you have a specific question about a piece of equipment be sure to include the model and serial number of both the equipment and engine if not a handheld item.

I have had probably 2 dozen that have failed within 30 minutes of greasing, and 6 of those never made it out fo the shop. They failed on initial test run with new bearings or new spindles installed. Inner seal will be dome bend into the bearing on the bearing that didn't fail, and the failed...

Looks like a linkage to use that engine for fixed speed applications.

On a spindle that has slip fit bearings like most cheap spindles you can believe there is no damage. Try that on a spindle that has press fit bearings. The type that requires a hydraulic press to remove and reinstall the bearings, and then put grease pressure inside of the hollow cavity. and...

You are holding the center at a fixed distance apart on the shaft between the blade mount and the pulley top, while the grease is trying to push the rest of the bearing out of the hollow tube. Have you ever filled the spindle full of grease and then try to turn the pulley. If the pulley is...

Just with a little checking of service manuals. It appears that Briggs and Kohler are both using the J1939 protocol. So a J1939 compatible OBD2 scanner should at least be able to read them.

When you deal with OEM carb kits that are 70-110% of the cost of a new OEM carb, Carbs get replaced instead of repairs. Also then you have the sealed cross drilled passages that are on the edge of too lean and a 1/4 micron of corrosion makes what should be a smooth running engine into a...

Agree. I have never taken a spindle apart to remove the seals in new bearings. I have never had a new spindle fail due to lack of grease in the bearings.. I have had more than one spindle fail due to being overpressurized due to the grease being pumped into the spindle causing side loading...

Should be some more numbers and maybe a few letters referred to as type and code.. Those items will give us what starter, charging system in some cases, and if it has a fuel pump or not.

Will need the actual model number information from the valve cover on the engine to provide correct information for your engine

Not so much that the intake valve sticks open. More likely the valve face and seat are worn which basically, the valve clearance closes and get held open.

Welcome to the world of lawnmowers. If you need anything for your JD or other mowers be sure to give us the model and serial number from the mower tag, and not what is written on a sticker on the side of the hood.

The truth is, in this day and age, you are better off fixing the old stuff then buying the new stuff which will fail within a few short years.

I was thinking something like this

Seems like I remember some of the older engines having a Intake valve stem seal that was mushroom shaped. Could that plastic piece be part of the valve stem seal.

31R907-0007 might be a possible replacement. Your original engine is supposed to supercede to the 31A607-3026, but that engine isn't showing in the briggs distribution system. and Briggs shows the replacement engine is the same as the original 31A607-3026 engine.

I fixed the model number in your title.

Briggs and Stratton has acquired Power Distributors, which was Briggs and Stratton's sole distribution network. PD, as of what they are announcing right now will remain in its current role,

Get us the model number of the snow blower as well as the model number of the engine and then we can see what we can find to assist you

Intake push rod is aluminum to deal with the different expansion rates of valves and other components. You can use steel for both if you want. It is fairly common for the aluminum push rod to wear through on that plastic guide in some cases. Some will say it is due to lack of maintenance and...

Just remember to give us the actual model number of the engine when asking for specific issues. And if anything involved the mower side of the equation we will also need the model number from the tag under the seat or were it is located. And the numbers on the side of the hood only reference...

both camshafts are available per Power Distributors website

Your engine takes the 793880 supercedes to 84005207 camshaft for all date codes.

Welcome to the forum. Look around and enjoy yourself. If you have any questions we will try to answer them

Item 15 bolt may be self tapping into item 65. Items 13,44, and 56 assemble into a belt guide for one of the idler pulleys which self taps into item 65.. And the entire sandwich connects to the frame using item 11 bolt and up through the frame with items 43 and 21.

That battery didn't owe you anything.

Welcome to the site,

Dave just for a heads up. The valves are suppose to overlap close to TDC. It has to do with making the engine more efficient. But the sheared flywheel key would cause the plug to spark at the wrong time, which could cause popping through the carb.

Lets back up and start with making sure the battery is actually good. Need to have it load tested to check output. And that doesn't mean with a volt meter because you can have 12.7 volts with a meter and drop to 0 under load. A clicking sound could also be a safety switch or even the fuel...

The 2nd picture is item 64 in this diagram And the 1st picture is part of item 67 https://www.partstree.com/models/247-273270-131278xs099-craftsman-t1100-lawn-tractor-2018/drive-7/

Reverse chain item 16 may of broke.

Welcome aboard

I moved the thread to Grasshopper so it will be seen by more members.

If the valve clearances are set correctly, and I would double check. And still no decompression bump on the intake valve which in this engine is the bottom valve I would highly suspect broken ACR.

600 rpm may put you in the 12.5 volt output but I would think something closer to 13.2 would be more realistic.

When you first posted I was assuming Alternator which would be more stable voltage/current. But if you are running an actual generator, those voltages are very typical output.

With the engine running, and while using a volt meter with the red lead on the + and the black lead on the - what is the voltage at the battery.

That OP spindle looks like the old style used on some Roper models. Those were a non serviceable welded pulley, welded blade mount from the factory.

May want to recheck model number That number comes back to using this spindle

What is on that tag between the coil and the oil cooler. Looks somewhat like a readable model number tag.