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both camshafts are available per Power Distributors website

Your engine takes the 793880 supercedes to 84005207 camshaft for all date codes.

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Item 15 bolt may be self tapping into item 65. Items 13,44, and 56 assemble into a belt guide for one of the idler pulleys which self taps into item 65.. And the entire sandwich connects to the frame using item 11 bolt and up through the frame with items 43 and 21.

That battery didn't owe you anything.

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Dave just for a heads up. The valves are suppose to overlap close to TDC. It has to do with making the engine more efficient. But the sheared flywheel key would cause the plug to spark at the wrong time, which could cause popping through the carb.

Lets back up and start with making sure the battery is actually good. Need to have it load tested to check output. And that doesn't mean with a volt meter because you can have 12.7 volts with a meter and drop to 0 under load. A clicking sound could also be a safety switch or even the fuel...

The 2nd picture is item 64 in this diagram And the 1st picture is part of item 67 https://www.partstree.com/models/247-273270-131278xs099-craftsman-t1100-lawn-tractor-2018/drive-7/

Reverse chain item 16 may of broke.

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I moved the thread to Grasshopper so it will be seen by more members.

If the valve clearances are set correctly, and I would double check. And still no decompression bump on the intake valve which in this engine is the bottom valve I would highly suspect broken ACR.

600 rpm may put you in the 12.5 volt output but I would think something closer to 13.2 would be more realistic.

When you first posted I was assuming Alternator which would be more stable voltage/current. But if you are running an actual generator, those voltages are very typical output.

With the engine running, and while using a volt meter with the red lead on the + and the black lead on the - what is the voltage at the battery.

That OP spindle looks like the old style used on some Roper models. Those were a non serviceable welded pulley, welded blade mount from the factory.

May want to recheck model number That number comes back to using this spindle

What is on that tag between the coil and the oil cooler. Looks somewhat like a readable model number tag.

Can you provide the actual model number from the tag. Normally 6 digits, but some have a long model number strings also. So we don't have to dig through 20 some pages of parts manuals trying to find that exact mower with that exact engine setup.

How about you assist us by posting the ECV model and spec numbers for both engines so we can compare the wiring harnesses.

First thing I would check is to make sure you pressed the PTO button back down.

LCT. liquid Combustion Technology. But Husqvarna will treat it as their own engine, So parts will be ordered using their part numbers. \ https://www.lctllc.com/service_parts_catalog/results.php Click on HOP parts and then copy and paste that entire PWB string into the model number field.

The World's Ugliest Lawnmower had two main selling points. The stainless steel body which really wasn't necessary since that is the only part of the lawnmower that doesn't get destroyed by rust on any mower, and the world's fastest lawnmower claim which later was overridden when Hustler came...

I blame part of that on the box stores. Customers will purchase a new mower and not put oil in it, and then after it locks up go get their money back. Or years ago people would purchase a new rider in March at Walmart, and then October would return it with the claim they didn't like it.

Actually Tiger most ride on mowers are replaced every 4.5 years, and due to that fact most are now designed for a 5 year lifespan.

Was announced 7 days ago that Dixie Chopper will again stop production In March of 2027. https://www.rurallifestyledealer.com/articles/12403-alamo-group-ends-dixie-chopper-mower-production

A 2012-2014 CC LTX1042KW just went for $500 last month at a local auction. So that would be an example of a 10 year old mower that retailed for around $2000 back then.

I am kind of in the situation were customers will have a cheap mower, and spend a large amount to fix it, because it is cheaper than replacement, but will not spend the initial money to purchase a serviced, repaired mower. Basically they will put $600 into a mower worth $200 if sold, but...

In my 28 years I have seen 3-4 mufflers were the internal baffle broke loose and blocked the outlet

Have you checked valve lift to make sure you don't have a worn lifter. Also something blocking the exhaust causing back pressure.

The problem is the mower is only worth $300. That is the issue. The won't spend the money to purchase a repaired mower. They will purchase the mower cheap and then pay a large sum to repair it after purchase. But you as the seller can't purchase the mower cheap, repair it and then get your...

Looks like the belt guide for the engine pulley.. Should mount just behind the pulley with the U shaped area on both side even with the pto pulley on the crankshaft stack pulley.

Actually what will happen is somebody will buy it off of me for $150 and then turn around and spend $600 to fix it. But if I went ahead and fixed it and tried to sell it for $600 they would only want to give me $150 for the mower.

Have a CC LTX1042 right now that was given to me that was actually in good shape. Ran and mowed when I received it. Just needed a couple belts and idler pulleys, and just general maintenance.. Put about $150 in parts in it to get it running and operating correctly. I will be lucky if I...

Seems like in my area lately. It is Mowers that are worth $200 are selling for $200 and still need $600 worth of work.

At least in my area the backyarders and the stuff at the auctions all have the same issues. For what they are selling at and what it takes to repair them are not cost effective. No money left in profit to flip. Example. JD Z950A sold at auction last month near me. Description was...

The gear in the wheel is showing signs of wear and tooth tip curling. So the drive gear and the sprocket may be getting an offset binding which is destroying the drive gear and somewhat the sprocket.

The 45 may very well be your cause. A leakdown test would be a better indicator were there compression is going. Could be valve or head gasket related on the Intek single.

The kill clip should be sticking out of the epoxy on the side of the coil. It shouldn't be connect to the iron core, otherwise you will have the problem that have now.

I have used them on JD, And Cub cadet, and I am currently waiting on a set for a Troybilt that is suppose to arrive tomorrow. So far I have had good luck with them.

Something to keep in mind is the voltage regulator will have a small parasitic load since it must have both power and a ground to operate. That could be your parasitic load, and would be normal as long as it isn't shorted. Should only pull a few milli-amps.

Possibly this would fit to put on a single blade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ZSNJU6?plpRedirect=mhFallback

@Skippydiesel You will be find with using what you have. Just be aware that you will not be able to remove most of the oil in the system unless you disassembly everything and redrain the system.

Looks like there is a small hole directly under the throttle link to the right of the white bushing on the throttle shaft of the carb. If not there, on some carbs they would connect the end of that spring in the same hole as the throttle linkage.

Skippy you will be fine with modern oils. Oil designation are backward compatible, at least for engine oils. Not so much for gear oils in some cases. Also as long as the main unit is full of oil, the reservoir is just an overflow for efficiency loss. Meaning the hydrostat system operates...

piston down 1/4

1/4 inch past dead center on power stroke. Both valves closed. The idea is to bypass the compression release when adjusting the valves. But most people will rotate the flywheel to one valve is open and adjust the other valve.. Rotate the engine to open the opposite valve and then set that...

Lets start with the engine model type and code so we can see what engine you have. At this point we don't know if you have a flat head, OHV, OHC, or some new fangled aerospace valve system.

Lets start with the actual model type and code from the engine. So we know what variation of engine you have. At this stage we are just guessing what ignition and kill system you have.