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See what happens when you post all the model numbers?

I tried it too, it wanted me to log on. I don't need the file, I was just checking after Handy Tom didn't get in.

I found HPDE sticks. First I see if buddy has a welder, if not I decide if I want to fix. Deeper searches found a new tank under $100. Not original part number, but part number listed as official replacement. If I weld, I will use HDPE. Thanks again.

Best I saw was PE. I asked the AI(boo) and they said compatible with HPDE. Got a recommendation? I haven't heard back if my buddy has one yet.

Glad you saw that sgkent, I know bunburner will be glad also.

By the way, I'd charge the battery overnight before I tried it again, regardless of what a volt meter says.

If battery is fully charged, I think the battery is suspect. It could also be the starter or cables from battery to solenoid and then to starter. One of your earlier pics of the engine showed the starter gear engaged, which it should only do when starting. That would be a problem. The audio...

Good to hear it.

How about this one? https://short-url.org/1x6KY (warning, link to amazon)

Thanks slomo. I'll check with a buddy who's a professional, maybe he's got one. It sounds good to me. The epoxy just seemed to lose it's grip, as I can peel the remnants off the tank pretty easy.

Is the battery charged? If it won't crank, does it make any sound when you try and start? Is there a click or any noise? Can you describe the sound? If you post the video to youtube, you can link it here.

That's kind of what I thought too. It's easy enough to misinterpret, it happens to all of us.

It's a plastic tank. I used epoxy on it 3 years ago, and it's coming off and leaking. As I said, I do have a tank also. Thanks again.

That's great, but we need the engine model number. Craftsman didn't make the engines, and there may have been multiple engines in that model mower. There should be a label on the engine with model and type. If you've needed starting fluid in the past, fuel system is suspect. Check the fuel...

Or that was what he was trying to do....

sgkent, I believe he replied to a reply to your reply that someone else posted in the thread about wanting used parts, and bunburner told him to post his own thread. I don't think he was addressing you at all.

Is that your mower? It's a rider with belt driven blades. That is much less likely to be the shaft key. That is a problem that happens frequently with blades attached directly to crankshaft.

You have to pull the flywheel. If you post the mower model#, someone may be able to point you to documentation. There's usually a plate or sticker with model and serial numbers. It's usually different from the model it's sold as. There's usually a cover on top that has to come off, then you...

Thanks Auto Doc's and slomo. Both helpful. I was just looking at it and as it surged, I got the idea it was overcorrecting, and checked for free movement. It is much better. I believe a buddy has a good tester, all I have is a VOM, and a EE degree. I'm working on leaky gas tank next. It's...

The Briggs motor should have an id plate with model and type.

Check carb linkages. I just did a generator where the throttle linkage was too tight in the fitting, making it surge. I'm not familiar with that motor. What about the lines to the pump? Leaks in the pressure line can do this.

What is the model #? There should be a plate or sticker with model and serial number.

Have you checked fuel flow?

Friday morning update. The rod from governor arm to throttle are was pretty snug at the throttle end. I lightly sanded and got it moving more freely, and lubed the pivot points for both arms and it cut down on the amount of surging. It must have been binding a little. I also adjusted the low...

No. What do I need to do? Pull the bowl and lift the float and see where it closes?

I have, it doesn't seem to stick, so I try and remember to double for 4 smokes. It was really cheap though.

My tach defaults to 2stroke, 1 spark per rev.

Motor is Briggs, model 19E412, type 1131e1, code 990428yd. BTW, I messed up the RPM's earlier, multiply by 2. 2800-4000. I know it should run at 3600, that's 60hz. I've had good luck with replacement carbs. This may need a little tweaking.

I took off the cable tie, and set the spring back in the middle, and it's going around 1400 rpm to 2000, voltage going 90-140. Should I try and richen? It's a new carb, new fuel lines and filter from tank to carb, and flows freely.

It's hard to hold it steady, but it seems the engine speed is steadier. You can see the lever moving a lot. It did it on the original carb, but less, but I did have that cable tie adding tension. When I had the original carb out and was testing, I noticed that the plastic 90degree fitting was...

I've had this generator for a few years, it's worked ok, but the carb leaks. I used a pressure tester, and from 5 lbs, you can see it slowly drop. I cleaned the carb, needle, seat, no change. It was also hunting some, not settling to a steady RPM. At some point in the past, I used a cable...

Sure sounds like float or needle. If it's not a big hassle, pull the carb, and check if the needle valve closes when you turn it upside down. That's the recommended way to test with a pressure gauge. You can put a clear fuel line on it, fill with diesel, and see if it holds. You can get a...

Have you confirmed that you have good spark to both cylinders?

Replace the battery and troubleshoot from there. Shaking and smoking aren't likely to be caused by the battery. Check the belt. Is it damaged, and still correctly routed? Check the blade, is it bent or broken? Does the blade move freely with engine not running and PTO disengaged? Try and...

Oops. I searched on the right part number, but it gave me the wrong one. Ebay...

What is the motor model #? It should be on the motor.

DId you try my link? It looks like one for sale.

Great! Glad you fixed it. You're welcome!

If you sit in the seat and turn ignition on, and engage the PTO, do you hear a sound? Kind of a thump? If so, it's the clutch engaging. Make sure PTO is disengaged before trying to start the engine. If you hear a click when you turn key to start, that's usually the solenoid engaging. If...

Could be. I am assuming you're talking about the blade engagement, or PTO switch. Hopefully someone familiar with that machine will speak up. I don't know the safety switches on that machine. On mine, you can turn on the ignition, sit on seat, and engage the PTO and you'll hear it engage...

Sounds good!

FIrst thing is install a cutoff in the fuel line. Second thing, if it's doing that, it's contaminating the oil. Hopefully we can figure out where the leak is and you can change the oil. You can test with a clear fuel line connected to the carb, that runs a foot or so higher than the carb...

Have you tried ebay...

Have you checked for free flow to the carb? Pull fuel line from carb, drain into a jar. It settles to the bottom. Does it flow freely, or dribble? If not free flowing, fuel lines/tank may have crud in them. Examine the fuel in the jar. Do you see any signs of water? If you've been...

Also check fuel flow from tank to carb. Pull fuel line from carb, check for free flow. If it has a fuel pump, crank the engine to check flow.

Thanks Smedley, I don't see many newer engines.

I don't know anything about that engine, but 16/1 seems very heavy on the oil. I am used to 40 or 50 to one. Hopefully someone will speak up...

Copied.... How are you verifying spark? The light bulb spark testers do not test well. There is a gap spark tester available for a very reasonable price, I expect to see a link showing up soon. You can test with the plug removed, connected and grounded, and see if there's spark at the plug. Next...

Seems like we got a duplicate post. I answered on the other one...

How are you verifying spark? The light bulb spark testers do not test well. There is a gap spark tester available for a very reasonable price, I expect to see a link showing up soon. You can test with the plug removed, connected and grounded, and see if there's spark at the plug. Next is...