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Because of how competitive the aftermarket carburetor market is, I believe the add ons are to try to outdo the next guy. When the prices are close, but the add ons are a bit different, it is pretty much the same carburetor. Sometimes you just get a better one than the next. Overall, I have...

Did the engine gradually start smoking, or all of a sudden when you started it one day? Rarely do Kawasaki engines blow cylinder head gaskets. More likely you have fuel in the oil. Change the oil. Other smaller possibility is worn rings or valve seals.

There should be a check/fill bolt on side of gearbox. Usually an Allen bolt.

Use your foot pedal to raise deck slightly as you are mowing. Much easier than trying to rig a smaller deck, shipping, trading, buying, selling, another deck.

I install fuel shut off valves on every piece of equipment I can that comes in my shop. This is for storing equipment for extended periods of time (months). Not because of the anti-afterfire solenoid.

I know these transaxles are junky. Anyway, it turns out that a few hard chunks of grass has packed in above the steering sector gear. The forward/reverse pedal linkage runs next to the frame and the packed grass was causing all the problems. Got it cleared out and customer is picking up the...

Find the leak on the Kawasaki FH and fix it. If it can’t be fixed and is a small leak, then keep oil topped off and run it. Lots of small engines leak oil. You don’t do an engine swap over a oil leak, unless it is gushing out.

Run it

If the engine is hunting and surging, the VAST majority of time it indicates a lean fuel issue. This is caused by an intake leak (seldom), or a fuel/air mixture that is not correct (often). Dirty carburetor is usually the problem. If carburetor is clean, then drilling out the pilot jet or...

Has anyone had issues with this black plastic transaxle? I have had to drill the input rod two separate times and secure it when the factory one fails. Also, this one on Husqvarna riding mower I have now from a customer will only work when you work the forward/reverse pedals back and forth by...

Why would you need to use a fuel shut off valve each time you are finished with the mower if the anti-afterfire solenoid is bypassed? The needle and seat do the job of shutting off the fuel, not the solenoid. Yes, I know the pintle in the solenoid shuts off the fuel to the main jet. Otherwise...

.010” or the thickness of a business card on coil air gap. If you get no spark with coil kill wire on, you have more work to do. Check safety switches, etc.

Set the parking brake and throttle down the mower to keep it running when emptying the grass bags/containers. Your problem is most likely a safety switch if you are getting no click, no start when turning the ignition switch. Much easier on you and healthier on the lawn to not catch the...

Chinese clone engines are fairly common on small equipment such as push mowers, tillers, snow blowers. However, when moving up in horsepower to 25 hp, etc. I would not recommend them. Kawasaki versus Loncin, LCT, Powermore, etc. is a no brainer. Chose the Kawasaki.

Mikuni makes great carburetors and fuel pumps. You need to check impulse line and fuel lines as stated previously.

Even under fence rows, they are still not good. Slow cumbersome, and limited cutting path. A wheeled hard blade edger is in the same category.

Bypassing the solenoid is an option. Some people go to lengths to clean, repair, replace the anti-afterfire carburetor solenoid. While others, like myself, realize that these solenoid malfunction and offer no real benefit to the equipment, as long as shutting down is not done at wide open...

Plastic wheels mounted on metal axel. The plastic eggs out and causes the wheels to get wonky. New wheels, or bushings installed into the old wheels are the solutions. Installing the bushings and getting them in straight can be tricky.

Regardless of the brand, these trimmers are slow, cumbersome, and not used often because they are a bad way of trimming. Use a regular trimmer and get it done.

If you are referring to a Kohler 7000 series twin cylinder having a no spark issue on one cylinder. No, that is not a common problem. Need more details to help.

You can get many sharpenings out of a chain. The key is actually being able to sharpen a chain correctly. Either by hand or with an electric chain sharpener. When you start seeing smoke coming off the chain and bar when cutting, STOP. Your chain is dull. You are just pissing into the wind.

Bypass anti-afterfire solenoid on carburetor. The pintle on the solenoid is not the main reason fuel can enter the cylinder , therefore hydro locking the engine with fuel. The main reason is the needle and seat working properly. One of the most misunderstood functions on a small engine is this...

Diagnosing electrical issues via the internet is not always the easiest thing to do.

Even if it is a horizontal shaft engine and it is tight, the engine should not have to be removed to clean the cooling fins.

Weld ‘er up!

Check your grounds again. Stop throwing parts at it and take it to a shop if you are stumped.

Since when do you need to remove an engine to remove the engine shroud? Take the engine shroud off, blow off the cooling fins, etc. with a blow gun. Take a small screwdriver and work it into between fins and tight spaces, and a wire brush and blow it out until it is clean.

Don’t use it period.

Belts don’t stretch but actually wear on the sides and the depth.

Finger tight is not tight enough for really any kind of bolt, and definitely not the hydro bypass valve.

Plan B: Install slightly smaller diameter grade 5 or better bolts that are longer so you can secure with a bolt and nut and Loctite. Essentially not concerned with the stripped threads because now you are using a bolt and nut to tighten.

How is a 31 year old engine, planned obsolescence ?

There are different models in each line of Kohler (Rehlko) and Kawasaki. Different specs and qualities. The only engine that has some problems of any significance to watch is the Kohler Courage single cylinder.

A good used 42” riding mower for around $500 bucks would work too.

A self-propelled mower will also do fine. However, there seems to be a lot of people with walking issues and laziness in my experience.

The line coming out of the engine block, into the carburetor is the breather. It is spitting out oil because the engine is worn out and probably on its last legs. Run it until it dies.

Hopefully when you are mowing, you are mowing grass and not weeds. There are dozens of these type mowers on the market. I see them every time I go to the Equipment Expo in Louisville, Kentucky. Nothing special.

I believe it is difficult for many people to think outside the box. Substituting the bearings would probably “void the warranty”, but get the machine right and able to use. Cub Cadet is not known for commercial equipment. I have seen their commercial zero turns and they seem as well built as...

Yeah, it is a 4mix engine. The BR600 BR700 and BR800 are great blowers. I have a BR600 that is 20 years old, used to use it commercially, and is still going strong. Rarely does the cam gear melt. The carburetor is a Zama if it is OEM, not Stihl. Although Stihl did buy out Zama. Highly doubtful...

Of course I have seen main seals go out on both vertical and horizontal engines. That is not what I was saying. I said Kohler Command engines specifically are not prone to blowing out the main seals.

So you have experienced a problem with the Stihl BR800 blower regarding the muffler bolts not staying tight. You not willing to leave it at the dealer for a whole week is odd. Don’t you have other blowers (like the heavy Echo?) We are just saying that having bolts backing out on the muffler on...

A Kohler Command is a great engine in general. Never heard of any small engine being “prone to blowing out the main top or bottom crankshaft seal”, much less a Kohler Command.

You are the only person I have seen on the internet, or in person from customers that has has this problem. We call that an outlier issue. Stihl makes great products from chainsaws, to blowers, to trimmers, etc. My suggestion is take these blowers with mufflers that will not stay on to a...

What about the on/off switch? Is it working properly? Did you check your grounds?

Take a micrometer and measure a business card to make sure it is close to .010”. I don’t think it is that crucial. Same as gap in spark plug. Most plugs I check when cleaning, the gap is too large until adjusted. Many spark plugs I check are not tightened properly either. Often the crush washer...

There are many videos on YouTube covering replacing/servicing/repairing hydraulic transaxles. The whole key is making sure you get the correct replacement before removing and replacing.

The clutch is in pieces and needs to be replaced. Spray the crankshaft with PB Blaster, apply heat, use an air hammer, or a 3 pound sledge hammer and beat it off. Sometimes it takes a lot to get a stuck one off. Also, try a 3 jaw puller.

Yep. Any 4-stroke trimmer such as Craftsman, Ryobi, Troy Bilt, etc. is basically junk from the start. A relatively short life span, difficult to start at times, unreliable, and not worth fixing most times. Go buy a Stihl, Husqvarna, Echo, or Redmax and you will be happy and productive for many...

The first thing to check on your drive belt is that the belt pattern is correct, then check for good belt tension. You can replace just the bendix gear on most starters, however, if the starter is old and worn out, it is best to replace the entire starter.

Some manufacturers say “it voids the warranty” way too quickly so they can get out of potential payouts. It has always bothered me when I hear, “it voids the warranty.” I have never owned anything expensive enough and new enough to even have a warranty (thousands of dollars).