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Is the linkage working ? does it move the throttle plate at all ? might have just come loose from the cable mount

The nut on the pully should be spinning with the Shaft - if it is not, then you're getting friction there and causing the heat issue. I'd pull the whole assembly , the shaft / bearings and pully will need to be replaced. This probably has a lock nut on it

Are you saying your blade speed is slow ? or your Drive system is slow , If it's your blade speed you'll need to look at the clutch

Could you have been feeling the fan around the flywheel ? I doubt it's your head gasket - a leaking head gasket probably would not show up as an oil leak , Clean it good and get your oil level right and run it again to verify where the leak is , take another few pics so we can get a better...

It's so dry here even the goats are looking for weeds / grass or anything

Some of these switches have dual contacts and only one side is used , you can move the wires over to the other 3 contacts and it works fine.

Just splice the wires yourself, they sell 3-4 and probably

Deck height shouldn't effect the deck belts only the Drive belt angle , mine needs high RPM's to engage initially then you can slow the machine down to where you like to run it.

Have you checked the spindles ? what about the idler pully and tension spring arrangement? What is the history on the machine ? Did you change anything when this started ?

Just splice the wires yourself, they sell 3-4 and probably multiple pin connectors at the auto parts house, just buy the female and it's counterpart male.

Better look at the wiring , test the switch with an Ohm meter , if it opens / closes the circuit it's either the wiring or a safety relay. Do any of the safeties work ? if so, swap the relays and see what happens

If the motor blew up and is shot , the pully ruined why pull it off anyway ?

No I'd imagine the lighter weight blades would not put enough strain on the machine and possibly let it run away, the governor should react and limit your rpms either way in my thinking. Just check the weight and go forward from there, make sure all your linkage is correct and free. I've never...

Better check your pto clutch

The ac voltage sounds about right, the DC output should be around 14volts or thereabouts , there is one terminal on the voltage regulator for this output , your volt meter should register DC voltage when the machine is revving up to operation speed. The starter relay only comes into play when...

This should have a washer the size of the metal bushing in the center so it does not contact the plastic part. These only last so long b/c there is no way to lubricate them to my knowledge. If it turns freely that's about all you can hope for. I've never torqued one , they usually come with a...

Check all your fuel supply lines for leaks , collapsed lines ,fuel pump operation etc.

This is a confusing issue, Makes no sense - Lets assume it's Not fire - now you will need to concentrate on fuel delivery , pump- filter- carb . You never say never in mechanical issues and cannot get too focused on one thing. I've learned this the hard way. Looking back on your post I see...

Has to be a different weight in the blades

Swap your spark plugs over and see if the same side drops off ,

If the same cylinder continues to drop off, it's an ignition issue - you installed new coils so now look at wiring

If it still runs on one cylinder it's doubful it's a fuel issue since they both use the same carb. One of your coils must be bad, If you can tell which cylinder keeps running and which one quits, swap the coils on each and see if the problem stays on the same cylinder or if it moves - this will...

Automatic chokes are garbage , No matter , shoot some starting fluid in the carb first to see if it tries to run, if so , you have a fuel problem and work to that end. if it doesn't try to run with starting fluid , it's ignition so go that direction before spending money on stuff you don't need.

The important part of the coil is on the open end - if it fits up to the flywheel that's all you need really - does the length stop the cover from fitting up? Wouldn't recommend grinding on the coil , might change up the cover if it's touching off .

Install a new plug , if it's wet looking it's not firing - there's your power loss, The type of gas you used does not effect the rings / compression etc. It's just a lower octane and does not deliver the needed power for your machine. I suffered through a tank of this by keeping the machine...

Your ignition key switch needs 12 volts for the Run position / 12 volts for start , the wiring is not right for sure a wire coming from under the flywheel cover should be your ignition source, the coil generates the spark , to the plug start at that wire and see if it's got anything if not work...

bypass the solenoid and see it it kicks over

Put a new air cleaner Asap, may as well change the fuel filter too, then start over- if it starts up again after stopping it's most likely a fuel supply issue.

Can't help with the manual but someone here can, Make sure you have the belt routed correctly they're easy to get wrong - How was it doing before the belt change ? A little background goes a long ways in trying to trouble shoot the problem

Not sure about this model but worst case drop the clutch , no big problem - it's for sure easier to swap the belt

pull the switch out of the fit and move it while a test light is hooked up and see if it's the switch being funky it's either the switch or wiring to the clutch - Rarely have I run into a bad clutch but it's possible

it's either loose or bent out of shape , remove it and inspect then re attach , make sure nothing is in the way keeping it from moving up and down , do it manually and see where the binding is if any

Check all your connections if they all look good run another 12 volt supply to the clutch independent of the regular switch , if it goes away , it's the switch itself, - also make sure your battery voltage is up to snuff. A fully charged battery might be the problem either the battery is getting...

That E10 fuel does not have the octane to run properly, If your plug was gray in color this is a sign of a clean burning engine, clean up the engine with something so you can see where your leak is

How are you releasing the tension on the blades if you have an electric clutch that is not getting power ? If it's not getting 12volts there would not be any blade action anyway. Make sure you have a good battery then check voltage everywhere - Not sue you'd get more than 12volts anywhere...

Make sure the shroud around the flywheel / coil area is clean so air can flow freely

It's not burning oil - it's losing oil somewhere and getting hot makes it smoke nearly all engines have small oil leaks when they have a lot of hrs running. Just add as needed until you find / fix the oil leak

None will be exactly , those are close enough and it should run fine. If you have one that is 50 percent lower than another you might have a problem - why were you testing compression ? is there a problem with it's running ?

A ticking sound would suggest something loose being effected by the fan,

Safety switches typically turn out of the fit 45 degrees or so and pull from the bottom , the seat itself does not need to be messed with , might want to post some pics

Not sure what a WC 33 engine is but a Tick is not anything to stress over , A knock however is a real concern

If it's a pully problem it would be constant , sounds like a belt slipping, pull the belt and roll each pully by hand and see if anything feels rough or noisy. Inspect the belt also to see if you can tell if it's slipping - it would be sorta shiny and stiff and not flexible

None are problem free - I've run Badboy for a while now and only had normal issues - I don't recommend getting anything with electronic fuel injected systems - anytime is has a problem it will need to go back to dealership. Just my 2cts.

What exactly are you saying " wont fully engage " ? If it's an electric PTO - it either engages or not - is yours a manual lever type that you engage ?

Been running a 54" Bad Boy for last 10 years - no complaints

I've gotten new carburators that didn't work well in the past, it's rare but still happens - you surely still have a fuel supply issue or carburation - I know if's frustrating but keep at it

You need to verify the ignition circuit is working, if this happened after your engine swap something is amiss in the wiring - use a test light and verify the switch is working properly

Sounds like a safety switch , you'll need to bypass at least the blade engagement switch -

If the carb was sitting up that long - not sure you can clean it well enough also the soft goods are probably shot. If it idles the engine evidently is in good shape so it's most likely fuel issues - don't think that model has a fuel pump only the pulse off the crankcase working the diaphram...

Make sure it's not a LH threaded bolt