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Pull the plug and turn it over with the plug grounded , it should be really easy to spin and you can watch for a tiny spark at the plug. If it has a spark, re install and give it a squirt of starting fluid in the air cleaner and try and start, if it still a no go, you'll need to check the...

You're goin to need to give us more information to go on like when was the last time it ran, what has changed since it was running etc. Just a little history would help us trouble shoot better

check your fuel pump , might be some debris in the valves stopping it from operating like it should , there are 2 small check valves and most are not repairable.

When did it start doin this ? Was anything changed ?

I think they recommend revving up to full throttle before engaging the blades then you can regulate back to slower speed after the governor kicks in

It sounds like you have a safety switch acting up Might try and bypass one at a time and see if you can isolate where it is

Re set the timing and install new blades , if the spindles turn and feel smooth they're probably ok I've never seen this set up but after installing the new blades spin by hand and see how it looks then run it and test the cutting - if it looks ok , I'd say run it .

It should disengage when the machine starts , the momentum of the ring gear should shoot it back down to it's normal position, I had one that didn't disengage once and drug the motor down b/c it kept it in a bind , you can pull it and lube it up real good and make sure the springs are in tact...

Back the nut off to where it's even with the flywheel Shaft, put pressure on 2 points 180 degrees apart and pop the top of the nut/ shaft with a good ball pene hammer and it's going to pop off. No puller necessary , I've taken off so many like this I loose count

Hot cable ends indicate bad connection , clean that up first and test the battery to make sure it's the right CCA and look at those connections as well as the ends at the starter and grnd. If all those are tested good , pull the starter and bench test it - does not sound like your solenoid to...

Yeah I think the flywheel and ring gear are together - Look at Amazon and / or Ebay for a used flywheel or replacement for that model , short of that it would be someone who works on these and has some old parts /engines laying around. Odd that it is only 4 months old and the starter teeth are...

Never seen a fuel supply come from the top of the tank , you may be looking at a return line

Ohh Yeah with any type of fuel pump

Are you looking at a manual valve ? If so I would put it before the filter so you can change filter out without loosing fuel, your carb bowl probably has an automatic fuel shut off for when you kill the engine.

Usually a tiny hole right on the same lever the larger rod fits onto .

Hook up Jumper cables to a hot battery and see how it reacts

You have done everything I would have - Don't rule out you have replaced a component that is still the problem.

I always use Permatex Gasket sealer on one side , Don't put anything on it until you are ready to put the 2 halves together, Use sealer or whatever you like only on one side in case you need to take it apart again , the gasket will hold and you should be able to re use it not having to scrape it...

If they're all the same you got some spares , you don't need more than one, Sometimes they'll put several different types to fit a various assortment of engines

If it does not hit when using starting fluid it would seem to be ignition - if you have spark you'll need to look at the timing - maybe sheared the keyway on your flywheel - it does not take much. Did he hit something hard while mowing ? Hold your finger in the spark plug hole while cranking it...

I've seen both a drain plug and having to tip the mower over, if there's a plug it will be on the base or underneath the machine , doesn't hold much so it's pretty easy.

If you having to run it with the choke you're starving for fuel , look at your carb first

Most times you need to rev it up almost full throttle when engaging the clutch , then you can moderate your speed to where you want it

Park the machine on a level surface and measure each side's ground clearance - if it's 1/4" or thereabouts I would not worry about it - as for leaving strips of unmowed grass That would not have anything to do with a level / unlevel deck - How old are your blades ? they tend to wear on the...

Well it wouldn't be running if he dropped a push rod or a valve

I got a set off Amazon and they worked fine

The exhaust side will be hot but not the intake - Never really checked valve cover temps on any engine, On large industrial engines if you felt the intake was hot it told me I had a burnt valve

Put 12 volts on the solenoid and see if it engages, Just clicking like you say sounds like a bad battery connection You can Jump across the larger terminals on the solenoid - if the starter reacts to that you know the starter is good but solenoid is not. Lots of the machine have extra wiring...

I've rewired a few machines and did away with all the safeties but that's me

I usually drive a couple of chizles at 90 degrees apart then hit the top of the crankshaft with a 2 lb ball pene hammer a good lick and it pops up for me - Do that and apply a little heat if it does not pop up for you

Depends on how thick the cut grass is , real thick will cause dead spots where it sits or lays. thinner stuff just sorta goes away and doesn't really hurt anything , I only rake and gather mine when it's really thick.

If it's firing and starting up - it's not your coil in my opinion, I think you have a fuel issue somewhere , coils either fire or not , fuel problems however behave like you're describing

Looks like you got lucky - a new rod might just be all you need along with gaskets etc.

Make sure your crankcase isn't damaged. Valves maybe bent and head could be scored up too

Might look at a possible safety switch shutting you down - if it is doing the same thing after you worked on the fuel system - either you still have a fuel delivery issue or a safety switch is shorting out - I think if it was fuel you would see and notice a bad running machine before falling on...

It ain't the heat , it's hot everywhere - I've had over 100 degrees for 20+ days here and not seen anything like what you're describing and no one else is having this issue, it's something else in my opinion - Neve have I heard of gasoline boiling in a fuel tank

Not sure about that model but most likely you'll need to drop the hydro low enough to work the fan off, I know on mine and most I've see there is barely enough room to work the belt on

replace the carb or rebuild it, your needle valve is leaking

I think there may be a fuel return on this machine but either way pretty sure it needs a vent on the fuel tank

Doubtful - I'd look at a replacement - never seen one go bad but sure it can happen

Stick a small rod in the spark plug hole and roll it slowly and make sure the piston is moving up and down , if you threw a rod it will not be moving and if that's the case you needn't worry about a rebuild , just replace the engine or mower itself

Bearing puller will apply force at the thick part of the pully near the shaft and will not damage the outer edges of the pully

There is no set screw , use a 3 pronged puller and put some heat on it - concentrate the heat near the shaft area or you'll bend your pully on the outer area , keep applying pressure with your impact and keep your torch moving. I don't think a small propane torch will do but maybe worth a try...

post some pics if you can - I'm not following what you're saying

Just use any flat washer but use a Nylock nut so it wont back off from vibration - or use locktight on the threads

You probably have a fuel delivery issue- fuel pump or suction lines leaking air or collapsing internally, Being it starts up again when it's acting up , it does not sound like an ignition issue

If your rings are leaking you'd have lots of crankcase pressure blowing from either the oil fill cap, dipstick or any vent you have - would also be smoking like a train and plugs would be wet with oil residue .

mine are under the seat but it's a different machine

There should be a relay that reacts to the safety switches, My machine has about 4 I think and they are all the same - if yours has relays like this , swap them around and see if the problem goes away or switches to another area.

I'd doubt any cylinder is leak free, if it runs good and not smoking there is no worry , why are you doing a leak down or compression test? It's not a head gasket leak or valves leaking , if so it would be noticeable when it is running - my suggestion to every situation is " if it ain't broke ...