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https://techcomm.rehlko.com/techcomm/pdf/32_690_03_EN.pdf

Unless the flywheel is actually touching the ignition module, it could be a compression release issue or a valve adjustment causing the engine to hang up. If you do a compression test and it's over 100 psi, that would tell you compression is too high. Then you just need to find out why.

Are you able to do a compression test?

You may ave it fixed by now but if not, have you checked for any exhaust restriciton?

If you're sure it's a 25 horsepower the 24 755 308-S kit is the only way to correctly fix it if it's an ignition issue. Just to clarify what you have, your SAM should have 2 brown wires, 2 yellow wires, one red, one white and one either green or black. If you look at the back of the SAM you'll...

Yep but next it will be on the new heads.

Almost no question it's fuel. You can usually get them free if you squirt some Kroil/ATF mix in and let them sit. The guides aren't replaceable because they are the parent material of the head. Kohler does make a replacement valve with an oversize valve stem. If the guide is worn, you would ream...

It sounds like you have proved, compression, spark, fuel and no reason to think it wouldn't be getting air. That pretty much leaves timing either ignition or valve/cam. A sheared flywheel key would affect ignition timing. While not impossible, a sheared key would be highly unlikely IMO but...

It's of course hard to say since you don't know how it was taken care of. From personal experience, I can tell you I've seen many Kohler Command twin cylinders engines on mowing equipment exceed 3000 hours. Well taken care of, 4000 hours is not unheard of.

From the factory oil pressure switches on mowers aren't typically wired to kill the ignition. That doesn't mean someone couldn't have rewired it, but they are normally wired to turn on a light as killing the engine could put the equipment operator in a dangerous situation. Equipment that doesn't...

Like you say, blocked oil return at the main bearing or the sleeve bearing was installed without the oil hole in the bearing lined up with the oil hole in the block.

If you're saying it's blowing out of the oil fill while running with the cap off, that's totally normal. To work correctly, the system needs to be sealed.

How did you determine the engine had crankcase pressure?

I apologize if I missed it but what is the AC voltage coming off of your stator? And with the key on, are you getting battery voltage to the voltage regulator? I may have missed this too, but what engine is it?

Disconnect the oil level switch and see if that changes anything. Bad switches were not uncommon on those HM’s.

True. I don't know of anyone killing an engine due to low oil if it has a person also being moved by that equipment. Plus, these work on oil pressure, and this engine will keep good oil pressure with as little as half a quart of oil which we all know is not enough oil. Most oil warning systems...

Normally, extreme oil usage and a fouled oily plug on one cylinder. Commercial mowers would often see about a quart of oil usage in a typical day of mowing.

There is one down below the voltage regulator and one in the same place on the other side also. You probably will have to use a wrench. I don't believe you'll be able to get a ratchet and socket in there.

An engine needs 5 things to make it run. Fuel, Air, Ignition, Compression & Timing both ignition and valve. Which one are you missing? From what you're posting, nothing seems to be missing. So why isn't it running? Does it run with the key in the start position then die when you let go? If you...

I'm retired now but I wasn't allowed to suggest any other fix than a new carb for this failure. Some carbs had a throttle shaft kit available but not the throttle plate.

By now the screw is either in the muffler or imbedded in the head or top of the piston. It shouldn't really be a problem unless it's imbedded in the edge of the piston where it could groove the cylinder. If you have or can get a small inspection cam you could maybe see inside the spark plug hole...

Screws might have come loose and the throttle plate is wedged in the carb.

You may have already checked this but, does the fuel line run anywhere near a high heat source? If so, see if you can re-route it away from that heat. You could be getting vapor lock. Another thing that can help if it is vapor lock is trying some premium fuel. Premium typically doesn't vapor...

Yeah, depending on how you look at it. It really shouldn't have happened on a commercial grade engine. For a lot of professional lawn folks, 494 hours is only about half a cutting season. :(

The clip breaking off the pickup tube was a rare occurrence and almost unheard of. If you can get a new tube and install it carefully you shouldn't have any issues IMO.

Did you notice any oil in the hose?

And it probably won't matter at this point as it seems you are not getting any fuel to the carb but remember, you need power to the fuel solenoid with the key in both the run and start positions. On these older units, the run circuit went dead when you turned the key to the start position. So...

Yeah, and it's not doing the intake valve stems and guides any favors either.

Will the engine idle without any choke? The governor should have no effect on a CV15 at idle. Even at high idle the governor should only affect the engine speed not the run quality. If it is indeed running lean, it's either not enough fuel or too much air. You can get the manual here free...

What are the engine models?

I've not seen any issues myself. Do you know if the customer ever tries to clean the air filter with compressed air? Also, if you haven't already, you might check the breather hose for being loose or cracked.

Hopefully someone has a solution for this issue. I inherited a Honda self-propelled walk behind mower, model HRR216K10VKAA. serial MZCG-1342918. The self-propelled works fine. The issue is, in the grass, the drive wheels simply slide on the grass when you pull the mower backward. They won't roll...

Are they? One says Kawasaki genuine parts and the other just says genuine parts.

With the carbs being set so lean in the last 15 to 20 years, having to choke a warm engine was not necessarily the norm but it was certainly not unheard of. On engines that were affected by that scenario the issue was there from day one brand new. It wasn't typically something that developed...

I can't speak to the quality of your Made In China Amazon filter but I can say, I don't believe you can get a better filter for your Kawasaki engine than a genuine Kawasaki filter.

I can't speak for Rehlko as I have zero experience with what they have done with Kohler but, Koher always advocated, if room will allow it, use the longest Kohler oil filter possible and fill the crankcase to the full mark on the dipstick and know how to do it correctly. Depending on which...

Does it use any oil?

About the compression, you have to remember that engine has a compression release so you're never going to see 90 to 120 lbs of compression. If you did it would probably rip the starter rope out of your hand when you pulled it. Tecumseh always stated that an engine with a compression release...

Call KOHLER Engines Customer Service at 1-800-544-2444. They might be able to help you or direct you to someone who can.

If it is indeed a Courage, it's not a CV493 so you may want to get a Courage manual.

Exactly, yes. Changing the name of the parent company is one thing, but changing the well-known names of the entities under the new parent wouldn't make sense.

What do you mean when you say you checked the breather valve? What were you looking for? What did you find? I guess what I'm asking is, how do you know the breather valve is good? What if you leave the hose off when it blows off? Does oil still come out of the fuel pump with that hose off...

For what it's worth, these are the companies there were under the Kohler Power umbrella when Platinum Equity made the purchase from the Kohler family last year. As you can see, it included engines, both gasoline and diesel, and Power Systems which was Kohler's generator and controls division...

I agree. Run it. There really isn't that can fail that would stop oil from getting to that area. Like ILENGINE said, it lubes through vapor mist. And if it helps. #1 cylinder is the one closest to the flywheel.

I know I'm a little late to this party, but have you found a solution? If not, look on the side of the carb for a round cover with one or two small rubber lines going to it. That's the accelerator pump. When you find it, if it has two lines, find the line that has the hard bulge in it. Once you...

Check for battery voltage to the solenoid on the carb with the key turned to the on/run position. Not all of the Courage single cylinder engines had oil pressure switches so that could be why you're not finding one. It sounds to me like you might be getting voltage to the fuel solenoid with the...

What were your compression readings?

Glad it wasn't anything more serious. Thanks for sharing what you found.

I guess to clarify, when you are checking for voltage at the B+ wire, where are you grounding the black lead of your meter? If you’re trying to ground it using the metal case of the regulator, then yes, a bad regulator ground could cause you to see no voltage on that wire. I always try to use...

The suspected bad ground would be if the regulator/rectifier is grounded. That would have no effect on DC voltage on the B+ wire.