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If you call 1.5mm a microscopic coating....which it's not....the steel is infused with carbon or nitride to about that depth but not further. Turn a piece of case hardened steel on your lathe and you'll know when you can switch from carbide to high speed steel tooling...

Differential pressure test it to check valve leakage.....you don't have the gauge manifold so find someone who does.....or, place piston top dead center, valves closed, on one side and blow compressed air into the spark plug hole. Don't put your fingers anywhere near the fan....100 psi is...

Compression tests are fine if they make you feel good....but that's about all they do. Yes, I do them too but rely on the differential pressure test to see where that compressed air is going.....past a valve, rings, head gasket..... Continental aircraft engines are down to 45/80 differential...

This exact same issue was covered in another post....more food for thought.... https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/purging-a-tuff-torq-dup-10-e-drive.76261/

The "sticker shock" comes from the reseller you buy them from. I've been able to get a standard bag of 100 for the price of just 5 from the reseller. Think it was Marco Rubber or something like that.

Related to higher temp epoxy but unrelated to your problem. Have a Kawasaki FD731V that developed a slight coolant leak at the bottom of the case where there was evidence of a scarcity of case sealant. Little chunks of the sealant had come out. Cleaned everything up, laid down a thin smear of...

A ratchet strap works really well to pull the tension idler back to install the belt.

Nobody seems to like ether. 🤔

4 things......no water in the fuel.

And the other thing Kawasaki owners do is not read the part on the dipstick about checking the oil level by NOT screwing the dipstick back in to get the oil level.

"The rod was broken and the there is a lot of aluminum transfer on the crankshaft.". He ran it out of oil. YOU are not responsible for the stupidity of others. This should be an object lesson to them....one that involves $$$$$

And they are cast in place. New engine.

No.

Rated for 1000 F. Come on advertising. Just like AL, any patch matrix will lose half of its strength well before it ever gets to that temp. Take it off and find someone who will TIG weld it back up.

Next time use the hot melt wire staples used in the auto repair biz. Stitch it up with those.

But damn hard to do on thin section metals. Rethink.

Whatever they were, weren't welds. Oxy/acetylene weld temp 3500 C. Electric arc 4000 C. Might have been furnace brazed but wasn't welded. But kinda doubt that as well. Oxy/hydrogen would get you down to 1750 C but don't see that happening either. Here would be melted AL pistons at anything above...

Still one pound of grease not doing a damn thing.

You guys....🙄. If it is a mixture screw, in will lean the mixture, out enrichens. If it is an air bleed screw, in enrichens, out leans. Turn it out 3 turns and start the mower. This is for idle only as the main jet controls the fast idle mixture. Set throttle to idle. Turn screw in....if it...

Hint.....put the seal back when done lubricating....

One pound of grease sitting in a cavity that will never, ever lubricate one damn thing. And odds are the friggin bearings are 2RS and zero grease will ever get to them anyway.

But there are those seeking help who are easily distracted by shiny things, who know nothing of mechanics or the operation of mechanisms. They just don't. There's a post this week by a guy who has become obsessed with the shape of a fuel filter. Shape. Not function, not direction of flow....just...

...and just think....those will likely be the people who can fix stuff. They don't teach logical thinking in public education.

Age. And not having been taken apart and cleaned, lubricated, brushes checked.....you need someone who has done all this before.

It cranks, just won't start and run. Reread their post. Ether was involved.

Stop it. Just making it worse.

Don't start what they can't finish.....

Swing-back / Pivoting Blade Systems (most relevant match): MEG-MO blades: These use a central disc with short pivoting knives/tips that swing away from obstacles like rocks or debris. They are marketed to prevent bent blades and spindle damage. They work on various mower types (including...

Parts cannon guy....

Still working with chips.....

Ensure you have the correct coil for the replacement side.....there is a left and a separately numbered right. They are not interchangeable: The left and right coils are cylinder-specific. Swapping them can cause issues like no spark, weak spark, or misfiring on one or both cylinders. Service...

Yeah....remove the problems. 🙄

Pre owned and returned....

Why? I'd have ripped that brake crap off long ago.

Bad Boy does the same....almost. Before fully warming up must use choke briefly. Full throttle to engage blades. I have a soft start on the blade clutch that really eases the clutch into full engagement. If you engage at less than full....yes it bogs down.

Part number.....

🤫🙄

Small bladed straight screwdriver or an oring pick. Insert between hose ID and filter, give it a drop of silicone spray or something slippery, let it sit for a minute, work the blade around the ID....

Geeez! These are not car carbs. 7 pounds is way overkill. 1 to 1.5 psi max is all you need, preferably the former.

Didn't run a compression test did ya. Not the "does it have compression" test but a differential test to determine where the oil is coming from. Could be a broken ring, worn cylinder, both, valve seals, etc.

5 pounds? Hell, 1 pound is more like it. This is not a car....

Failing coils won't consistently surge.

Hydro-Gear does not list a dedicated public service/repair manual specifically for the 350-0510 on their site. However:The 310-0510/-0610/-0710 Service and Repair Manual (BLN-51260) is the standard reference used for this family of transaxles. Users and forums (including recent discussions on...

Nice build. Just about any small fuel pump these days will work fine. You may also need a pressure regulator to drop the pressure to 1 psi as most are above that by 1.5 psi or higher. These inline pumps are all pretty much the same design. Check to see if they have check valves or anti siphon...

Looks like you have a rubberized version. Yes, rubber and alcohol are not compatible. Have you ever looked for an acetate or Teflon diaphragm? There are kits available and depends on how old the engine is and which diaphragm you're talking about. Official B&S: Shop.briggsandstratton.com for OEM...

If you use Firefox you can download each part to a PDF then use the Accessibility settings to increase font size. Actually, you can increase font size without download to a PDF....don't know about other browsers but suspect they may have the same capability. Good for you. Most don't want to...

Yeah? Blindness is a curse.....

Voltage....not amps.