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Tell ya what.....drive a big spike into that beam and hang a tire and wheel assembly from the lug nut/stud hole....betcha it "balances" every time. Whoever "Terryl" is doesn't know crap about physics......and yes, lots of physics were used in the space shuttle.

Tell ya what.....drive a big spike into that beam and hang a tire and wheel assembly from the lug nut/stud hole....betcha it "balances" every time. Today's lesson in "rocket science".... Does the force at the end of a mower blade inctease linearly with rpm No. The (centrifugal) force at the...

Not to mention but water is a crappy lubricant......esp in tight tolerance machinery.

And you're starting above the centerline of the blade. Just where do you think the majority of the mass is now? 🤫

I've seen bad advice before....this is at the top.

Screwdriver "trick" is crap....you already fail when the balance point in now at the edge of the hole and not in the center of the hole. That is the reason for the cone.

"Easy" isn't always what you think it is.....🤫👍

Do you have that valve guide in your hand? And no...hex sizes don't change magically.

Wasted grease. Just what everybody needs to do when perhaps one hundreth of that amount is actually needed. 🤫🙄

And this begs the question.....does anybody, except for mechanics, ever really listen to their equipment for odd noises, grinding, rough running. I'll bet the bearings on this thing were just grinding away for some time as evidenced by the "fall apart" comment. Corrolary....largest...

Real bearings that aren't Chinee. Open up a Chinee bearing when new and see the couple of small dabs of something, usually white, but probably renderings from the pig they just killed.

That's the "Screw You Moron" grease fitting. Most spindle bearings are of the 2 RS (2 rubber seal) with a few being 1 RS. Those with metal shield will be -Z or -2Z. Eating grease gets old and hard over a couple of years. The 2RS is easy to service without removal from the spindle. A very small...

How many hours on the engine?....Coil on one side. Guess.

Replace the belt....

Could be the stud was backing out and the repeated side load snapped in the threads, the weakest point. Look carefully at the broken end....shiny is new fractured dull is old existing fracture...usually.

A 10mm hex may not be a 10mm stud. And torque into aluminum will be far less....

7/16 is 11mm.

A few drops of gas thru the plug hole has always been my go to.

Was it not being screwed in all the way? Limited by external structure?🤔 That would be really unexpected....😁

Take out the Stop. No head removal. Take out the spark plug and insert screw driver blade. Apply pressure to the driver against piston.Turn engine over by hand til the blade is pushed out the maximum it can go befire it starts to retreat with the piston going down. This is one of two top dead...

There are only two negative sides to ethanol....the first is that it is hygroscopic meaning it picks up water from the ambient atmospheric contact. That isn't much of a problem at the percentages used. The other is that it assists in washing the oil off the cylinder walls. Gives the oil ring...

Damn good advice....

Machine shop....

Bermuda 1.75" or so. You want to encourage horizontal growth, not vertical. 34-0-0 fertilizer in a moderately heavy application early on. MSMA 6 Plus for crabgrass control if you have that problem. Give the MSMA time to work....takes a week or more and you'll start to see little yellow spots on...

Change the oil and filter and move on.....

Ether will start any IC engine. It is much more flammable than others suggested but will work. Shoot, just a few drops of gas down the spark plug hole will work as well.....

Certainly....at the introduction of ethanol in 1978 there were problems with rubber components. Buna N solved all that by 1980. Almost every automotive or small gasoline engine since then has been placarded for at least 10% and later some for 15%. Ethanol will not harm these engines despite the...

Closer the better without rubbing.

🙄. No.

"....even though I run ethanol-free gas". False virtue.

Stevie Wonder and Ray Charles approve.....

No.

698281 Superseded to 7049776YP view new part 698281 is No Longer Available

Yes...even when they're broken. The keyway alignment and the spark timing magnet on the outside will always be correct if in the same alignment. The alternator magnets are on the inside. You can rip ALL the alternator magnets out and still know which is the correct flywheel.

Magnet orientation N-S makes zero difference....all that is required is a flux in the coils from the passing magnetic field.

Look at the casting numbers ....original is -200 or -700 hard to tell, the new one is -100.

Another parts cannon.

The original is the 18 rivet 532 hour Don Dye. Both are still useable and smooth. I replaced one with that Chinee 6 rivet that failed in 6 hours. But the Don Dye are head and shoulders above anything else that Bad Boy could offer and does offer. And if you notice, the new Don Dye is listed in...

Yeah....until I look at all 18 rivets. Both sides are fully headed which means accurately center punching and drilling.....because grinding is subject to slips and gouges. If I had a milling machine this would be trivial...just use an end mill to cut them to just above the surface and pin punch...

These are the original Don Dye pulleys that will last....oem on Bad Boy many years ago til they went stupid. I'm

Chinese ****. Chinese ****.....check out my post 4.75" deck idler pulleys....warning

The image provided here is the flat idler pulley for the deck of a lot of Bad Boy and other mowers. The one in the left is what Bad Boy is sending to their dealers. It is Chinese $33 crap. 6 hours and the bearings are shot. Easily identified by the 6 rivet design. The one on the right is the...

It didn't. Something else is at play here....

That one appears to have a nice, wide seal mark at the cone. No leak by there.

This is one of those problems that invites a parts cannon approach. What are the fluid pressures being delivered to each drive motor? Are they different? Are the drive motors actually the problem or is it the pump? The DUP10 is just two pumps side by side in the same case delivering fluid under...

And a better source for your operators manual..... http://manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMM154566_D7/Output/Index.html?tM=HO

More to think about......found this interesting. The higher viscosity TuffTech oil would mask some wear issues but it's still not certain that this isn't just an air purge problem......

Did you buy this new or from someone? That red knob looks like a battery disconnect....anti theft. The key doesn't pull out of the socket does it? If it doesn't start in one position but does in the other that's what it is. And disregard on the 30 wt trans oil....manual says JD Hygard was used...

Might want to check....most of these hydros use 30 wt motor oil, not "hydraulic" oil. Here is the link for anything past 2006 and yours still uses the Kanzaki DUP10 pump. https://john-deere.manymanuals.com/gardening-equipment/z425/user-manual-11765/44 Now the pump, if defective, can be rebuilt...

If you have the TZT7 series transaxle ( should be a tag on each transaxle to identify model and serial number), watch this video. Your operators manual..... https://pdf.lowes.com/useandcareguides/759936761409_use.pdf I think the rod you were originally adjusting is for creep while the control...