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Tilt switch is closed.

Post all engines numbers so we have some idea of what you are dealing with. We hate guessing.

Please post the model and serial numbers. That way I can see the entire drive system. I’m doubting the transmission is the problem.

Did you purchase an OEM belt or an aftermarket belt that they said will fit. OEM belt number is 539110411

Maybe this manual will help with troubleshooting your problem. https://www.toro.com/getpub/24117

I suggest that before ordering any parts, I would contact B&S customer support. You need to verify which flywheel with ring gear can be used with your engine. Had a customer a few years ago try to do the same thing you are trying to do, but was given incorrect information off the internet and...

Follow what IL is saying. The sections on carbs and governors in this manual will also help. http://www.tuks.nl/WFCProject/img/Engine_Carburator/81644210-Briggs-Stratton-Service-Manual-L-Head.pdf

Maybe this site will help you out. https://www.walbro.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/WYJ.pdf

Do a google search for a ONE INCH blade adapter. Should be able to find one.

Should have added, some are laser etch into the block.

It’s stamped on the shroud or valve cover. Might takes some work to find it, but it’s there.

About $400.00. You will need a starter, new flywheel, starter switch and battery. This is not counting the time to assemble everything.

Try this website. https://www.wolfswinkel.shop/spare-parts-drawings/other/poulanpro/lawn-mowers/pr174y22rhpe/pr174y22rhpe-96142014900-2017-11

Google search your units model number (off the ID tag) wiring diagram and you should come up with a diagram to help you troubleshoot the issue. This is what all experienced techs do when trying to solve electrical problems. Only amateurs throw parts at it when they don’t know how to troubleshoot.

Please post the model, type and code numbers for your engine. Also post the part number for the carb you purchased. With those I may be able to find a picture for you.

Looks to me exactly like a 1988 MTD 11/32. MTD made this series unit under a variety of different brand names. The Briggs engine numbers indicate that the engine is a universal replacement engine, so I agree with IL that it has been swapped out.

This coming from someone who can’t tell the difference between a vacujet and pulsajet carb. Surprised you haven’t told him that cleaning the cooling fins would help him solve the problem. I hope the OP ignores your posts, as they won’t help his cause.

Slomo, please learn about vacujet carbs. I don’t know where you have gotten your knowledge about how they work, you better throw it away. They are about the easiest carbs to clean, plus the mixture adjusting needle controls the amount of fuel going from the pickup tube into the air horn...

slomo, you better get your eyes checked. That is a vacujet carb, not pulsajet. There is no pump, so no diaphragm. You’re sending the OP in the wrong direction.

Insert the filter in the tank into the tank first, then slide the fuel line over the filter and tank outlet. No risk to damage.

Just replaced a fuel line with that filter last week. Cut the fuel line around the filter to remove it from the old line. Insert the filter into the tank outlet and then push the new. fuel line over the filter and outlet. Don’t forget to put the clamp on the line before assembling. Not...

If the float level is too low, it may not prime or run properly. Seat may be swollen causing the change in float level. Solution is to replace the float needle and seat. Let me know what you find.

Try this old timers trick. Remove fuel inlet line from the pump. Put it into a glass jar and blow into the tank as hard as you can. Can use an air nozzle if you have one available. You should see a steady stream of fuel into the jar. If you do, replace line and remove fuel line from the...

Just my opinion, I always use OEM parts bought from a dealer. That way if there is a problem I have some recourse to help in rectifying it. Built to OEM specs in today’s economy is just words on paper. Penny wise and dollar foolish can get DYI guys into trouble very quickly.

You said it has no choke, which means it has a primer system, right? If I’m right, have you checked to see if fuel is shooting into the air horn when you press the primer bulb? Second, when you rebuilt the carb, did you check the float height? When carb is inverted the float should be level...

If all pulleys and tensioner arms are moving freely the problem I found is customer is not using OEM belts. Had a customer about five years ago, with that same JD setup went through after market belts for two months before him finally took my recommendation to spend the extra cash for JD belts...

Before you give up, remove the shroud and check to see if the starter clutch is frozen, not the piston.

I’m guessing the air filter base is warped, not allowing priming due to air leak between base and carb body.

Briggs part number 296476 pickup tubes are still available, may have to do a little searching. Also, Briggs carb number 210719 & 210721 are still available, but will have to do a lot of research. Part number will depend on which model, type and code the OP has. I can’t believe that the model...

First, before we can start to try to help you out we will need to have the model and serial numbers off both the unit and engine. Then we can try to find a wiring diagram. Second, how proficient are you at understanding electrical circuits and electrical wiring? Swapping out engines...

Ideal choke position, full choke for starting an no choke for running. I see that you have not taken the time to read over the section on carburetors in the manual I posted. Stop number 8 in my earlier post. CARB NEEDS TO BE ADJUSTED

Personally I wouldn’t worry about it.

With all that dirt and crud around the stator, it could also be shorting out through the dirt. Don’t laugh, I’ve seen it more that once.

Looking at your carb, this is what I would be doing. 1. Remove carb and give it a good cleaning. 2. Purchase 2 carb to engine gaskets, part number 27355. Yes, it calls for doubling up on those gaskets. 3. Purchase a new carb to tank gasket, part number 27404. 4. Throughly clean the entire...

Does it look something like this engine? If so there should be a model, type and code numbers on the shroud by the spark plug.

Time master is a single cylinder engine. Three things I would be checking. 1. Did you use OEM belts and check the tensioner to make sure the arm is moving freely? 2. Is the engine running at the correct rpm speed? Should be at 3200-3300 RPMs under no load. 3. Does the governor try to...

I would start by rebuilding the carb with a new needle and seat, part number 631021. I taught my students to use this procedure. I also attached a service manual for future reference...

Personal opinion, I never trust AutoScam parts. Always buy OEM parts.

Two things I would check. 1. Loose engine mounting bolts. 2. Bad bearings in the drive shaft couplers.

Check battery voltage while someone is turning the key to start. I’m betting it will drop below 10 VDC. If it does, time to replace the battery.

Bentrim, I understand what you are saying, but please explain this manual to me. https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0272/4689/files/CV11_CV12.5_CV13_CV14_CV15_CV16_CV460-465_CV490-495_DATE_4_11.pdf?v=1668019125

I always try to repair before I replace, but I’ve got parts on hand. Grew up never throwing good parts away. My age is showing.

Don’t buy before you remove the covers. Call the local dealers or repair shops to see if they have them before starting. That way you’ll know if they are around before starting.

Star is correct. Mine doesn’t have a scharder valve, and I forget things like that. Second reason why I use a leakdown tester more than a compression tester.

Bentrim, that tag is for a single cylinder engine, not a twin.

Many of the auto parts stores provide tools at no cost. Might want to check stores in your area. Cheaper than buying one. I own and recommend the second one Doc told you about. I always do the test three or four times to verify my findings. Just reread the OP’s post and I should add that I...

Your guess will be as good as mine and I’ve done many of these. Sometimes they come off clean and other times they’re a mess. 50/50 chance. If it was me I wouldn’t touch it unless I had a better reason than “I want to check “. The choice is yours. Here’s a service manual if you decide to...

This manual shows some engines have a mechanical fuel pump as part of the valve cover.. https://techcomm.rehlko.com/techcomm/pdf/24_690_06_EN.pdf This service manual talks about the electric fuel pump, if that’s what you have. https://apps.mtdproducts.com/manuals/769-01633.pdf

Yes, both Ford and New Holland both had these units. Only difference was paint color. One more thing, the Kohler ID tag you posted should not be on the shroud you posted. That engine was not even around when that tractor was built.

Yes, Lawn Boy went to Tecumseh when they switched from 2-cycle to 4-cycle. I’m assuming (which I shouldn’t do) after reading his first post that he has a 4-cycle engine. Wouldn’t be the first time I was wrong and looked like an idiot.