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My ESP, CRYSTAL BALL and PSYCHIC are not working either. That means you are going to have to post the model and serial numbers for your unit before anyone can help you out.

It would be sure nice to know which of the fifty different models Tecumseh produced and which of the fifty different models of Lawn Boy mowers you may have. We need model and serial numbers for the mower and model and spec numbers for the engine. Plus part number for the carb you purchased.

May have been replaced, but that doesn’t explain a single cylinder shroud on a twin cylinder engine.

FORGET IT!!!!??? Guess I just got thrown under the bus, for trying to help. Guess I’m the idiot on this one for using my experience to post manuals for the OP and then told I’m no help, forget it. Can a more experienced tech read post #9 and tell me what I’m missing. Also, please explain...

Star, I’m sorry I can’t help you out, but I’ve learned that if I can’t help, it’s best to zip your pie hole. Like Skimpy said, I to also go to my local bearing/seeal distributor. My last resort is two brothers who are millwrights who have only failed me a half-dozen times. Good luck.

I’m totally confused. A Kohler CV16S is a single cylinder engine. The tag says single cylinder engine, but you say it is a twin. The single cylinder shroud will not fit on a twin. I’ve been working on small engines for over 60 years and have no clue how this thread makes any sense. I hope...

Post a picture of the top of the engine

You will have to double check the engine numbers. A Kohler CV16S is a single cylinder engine. According to the unit specs, that is the engine which goes in a Toro 266H.

Don’t know what you mean by the last post, but here is the engine manual. https://mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kohler-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/Kohler-Service-Repair-Manual-Command-CV11-CV12.5-CV13-CV14-CV15-CV16-CV460-CV465-CV490-CV495.pdf

Please don’t post multiple thread on the same unit. Only confuses everyone. Stick to one thread.

According to the serial your unit was built in 1994. This site should have all the information you will need. Service, owners and parts manuals. https://www.toro.com/en/parts/partdetails?id=5296

I’m also regulated to the sidelines on this one. What the OP has, what he posts and experience add up to trouble for me if I contribute to try to help.

Those are not blades turning!! Hydro fans.

First, check the oil level, making sure it is not over filled and smells like gas. Second, remove the spark plugs and see if it turns over smoothly. Report back with what you find.

You must make sure you have the correct belt, buying off AutoScam has been found by the experienced techs on this form to be very sketchy. Most times you get ones that says “IT WILL FIT” buy does not have the same belt geometry as an OEM belt. This might help you out. The Cub Cadet 2166 riding...

According to the manual I posted, the transmission is a Peerless model is 2308A. The Peerless 2308A belongs to the Peerless 2300-series four-speed manual transaxle family and requires an oil bath fill of 64 ounces (2 quarts) of SAE 80W-90 (or EP-90) gear oil.

Google search “Kohler part 2475750s”. Found many available online.

On those mowers I set the governed top speed at 3200 RPMs.

I’m not a fan of customers working on units under warranty, even if purchased at a BB outlet. Have seen way too many times when I couldn’t repair a unit under warranty because the customer tried to save a buck and it cost them big time. Choice is yours though.

Please post the model and serial numbers for the unit. Depending on which model you have, I’m thinking that the RPMs may be low.

I’m agreeing with you, start with the bearings.

As stated above, back to the dealer, don’t void the warranty.

I can’t find that spring on any diagrams. What was the part number you ordered? It is not uncommon to get the wrong parts on AutoScam. I still don’t believe that spring belongs on you engine.

I may be wrong, but I don’t believe that the spring you posted belongs to the engine number you posted. I can’t find it on the IPL for your engine. Are you sure that the spring posted came from your engine? The pictures the Sgkent posted are the governor spring and stop control spring.

Be very, very careful working with Muriatic Acid. Fumes can get you, plus it does react to some plastics.

To me that looks like a governor spring. Can you take a couple of pictures showing the top of the carb?

I’m guessing that rust buildup in the splines is stopping you from removing the wheel. I suggest that you hammer the wheel back down that 3/8”, spray with rust buster, and then using your puller bring it back up again. You may only gain 1/16” each time, which means multiple, multiple attempts...

Does it look like this spring? https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/choke-return-spring-location-briggs-12f802-1173-01.470885/

Thanks IL, I knew I had seen it before, but I’ve forgotten more than I remember.

What area of the unit were you working on?

I retired in 2007 and that year we only had 4 semester classes of beginning level courses, plus one advanced level course. Three years later only one basic class, due to the reasons stated. Even though I’m totally retired from working in a shop I get at least one call a week from friends who...

What part of “I’ve got it working” don’t yyou understand?

How does this question help the OP out? Please reread her post.

This operator’s manual should help you out. manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMGX22464_C8/Output/OMGX22464_C8TOC.html

Try this one. https://www.gardentractortalk.com/d3/downloads/44595-Chief_Parts_List.pdf

This parts manual may help you in the future. https://www.garden tractor talk.com/d3/downloads/44595-Chief_Parts_List.pdf?utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic First manual I post doesn’t work, try this one...

Star beat me to it, I agree with what he posted

If you’ve never taken a carb apart, I would recommend you find an experienced tech to help you. I’m totally against telling an inexperienced DIY guy to try to learn what to do by just watching an internet video. A lot of guys around here are going to disagree with me, but I’m to old to change...

Check the oil level. I’m guessing the float needle is not shutting off the fuel entering the carb and running into both the crankcase and out the air horn. Solution, clean and rebuild carb with new float needle and seat. Plus you will need to change the oil. When you post back be sure to...

Use this website to get many of your answers. Click on your serial number and it will take you to parts and manual pages. https://www.toro.com/en-ca/parts?SearchText=22040&SelectedFilterByOption=equipment

Page 17 of the owners manual. https://apps.mtdproducts.com/manuals/02000457%20rev06_0.pdf

This site should help you out. https://www.simplicitymfg.com/en-us/support/manuals/results?search=1694014

Tractor is manufactured by Husqvarna and I’m pretty sure the part number is #532105709

If the engine runs fine, but can’t go uphill, the first thing I would be checking and replacing is the drive belt. Plus check all the pulleys and tensioner arm, making sure they are good and moving freely.

This manual should help you diagnose where the wire goes. The red wire looks like it contains a diode. https://www.briggsandstratton.com/hubfs/briggsandstratton/EMEA/FAQs/pdfs/alternator_replacement.pdf

You just removed the air filter components to keep debris out of the gas tank. Hope you understand what could happen down the road.

Try searching this. “Tuff Torq K46 Service Manual PDF free download”

Use a rust buster lub, such as PB Blaster.

I’m guessing one or two things are causing the problem. 1. Gasket between the air filter body and carb is not sealing, causing the primer to not work properly. Gasket is dried out or filter body is warped. If you install a new gasket and/or filter body and it doesn’t solve the problem go to...

This starters are not that hard to rebuild if you have the mechanical expertise. Rebuild kits are available. Might want to check with this site...