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Food for thought, possibly the support level has lessened due to the implementation of electric power tools. The company is probably moving forward with that agenda. Either way, poor excuse for not providing support to existing customers in my humble opinion. I know our local dealership...

I would check the coils, sounds like a coil problem to me. Generally speaking, your symptom as described usually indicates a faulty coil. The engine starts and runs fine. As soon as you start pto or try running up a hill or place the engine under load the engine will bog. Usually it is only one...

Assuming you checked timing, spark plugs, and all the other ideas posted above and all is well: If it has the little anti backfire solenoid on the bowl of the carb, test the voltage and current coming to the solenoid. Check resistance as well. Sometimes that solenoid goes bad, not all the way...

So, the ground test was good correct?

Watch video first Bud

All three switches get tested with continuity while disconnected from Battery and circuit.

Did you remember to test the ground circuit i posted earlier? If so, let us know the results.

If the fuse was good, then check each of the three safety switches. Pto, seat, parking brake. If you need specific instructions, let us know.

Main fuse should be 15 amp, number 4 posted on diagram above.

Check main fuse first, (if good) then perform other testing mentioned in previous posts. We need to know if power is getting past safety devices and on to the solenoid. If the main fuse is not good, then we have to find a short that's causing the fuse to blow. Please report back sir

Red goes back to fuse and on to battery for charging as well as safety switches. This wire does have a diode as shown above in diagram. It converts a/c to d/c for charging the battery. Orange goes from the solenoid to the ignition switch. Hope this helps.

Definitely not, because, it was not manufactured with headlights. In addition, the a/c from stator is converted to d/c by diode. Hope this helps.

In your case, assuming this is the proper diagram. Perform testing posted above on orange wire.

Assuming your motor is original, this should be the schematic. Read top and match to your machine. It's a start!

Please post engine model number and code. We can look at schematic and walk you through appropriate testing procedures. Put your multimeter on continuity, looks like a little speaker symbol. Touch probes together and listen for meter to make beeping sound. Next, put red probe on metal surface...

Sounds like the battery may be ok on voltage, but, not delivering the required amperage. The internal resistance may be high and your charger will not reveal the problem. Try another battery, do you have a known good spare? How old is the battery? Usually they have a sticker on them. Quite...

Makes ya wonder, is it a matter of quality control at the coil manufacturer (some coils have more or less turns then others)? Or......is it an electrical engineering miscalculation. Problems are common enough with premature coil failures to ask these questions. Worth looking into at a minimum...

Good stuff, I've had the same results with my scope.

One thing I've noticed on those engines, the one coil always has better spark on one side then the other. The one plug also looks better then the other. These facts have lead me to believe that the issue could be more related to the coils/spark/ignition then fuel. I've noticed it on several and...

Power comes direct from Battery via key switch Boss. You should hear the solenoid click when you turn the key to the on position. If you can't hear click, check plug (connector at solenoid) for battery voltage with key switch in on position.

Where are you located Boss? I repair electric power equipment. No problem. Parts are available for many units. In many cases, it's simply a fuse or the nut came loose on the shaft so the blade quits spinning. Is there any life at all when you try to start? Does motor start, but, blade doesn't...

Remove hose that is attached to valve cover and fuel pump. Remove the end that is attached to the fuel pump itself. Let the other end connected to valve cover. See if you can feel a pulse while cranking the engine. Put your finger at open end of hose that goes to fuel pump.

Try spraying carb cleaner around intake where carb mounts. If RPM changes, there is an air leak. Sounds like two possibilities worth investigating: 1. Intake leak causing AFR to be off. 2. I've seen the same symptoms when one coil is not producing proper spark. It sparks, but, not enough...