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I took the tire to a mower shop and he seated both beads using a machine that had a bottom air blast feature then he pulled up the tire to seat the top bead and he took a air nozzle and put it on the valve stem and the beads popped in place. He used a wikco industries self change 160 with tool...

Do they make tire ringss for mower tires. They look like a doughnut and after you pput tire lub on it you put it on the rim and when the tire fills with air it will pop off the rim.

I found a way to modify a harbor freight tire changer so I can mount smaller tires. The bench one they sell is too chincy.

I bought a harbor freight manual tire changer that bolts to the flor and I thought since it will do 8 inch tires it would come with a adapter to do riding mower tires but it did not. Is there a adapter you can get to fit on it to do mower tires?

I was wondering what small tire changer should I buy to use with riding mower tires instead of doing it with tire irons. I already have a coats 3030a for larger tires. Also should I get a bench type or one that mounts to the garage floor.

Now I understand. I thought you have to put a tube in the tire while it was on the rim.

I figured if you are going to put a tube in the tire to expand it you should leave the tube in there.

I even tried 2 straps.

I tried the ether trick but the new ether does not burn like the original ether so the tire won't pop on.

I had one of those that burst air inside the tire could not get it to seat a tire.

I just bought a 31431 which is made from ken tool so when it comes in I will try it.

I replaced a new rear tire which is 20 by 8 on the rim and I can't get the tire to seat on the rim. I used a ratchet strap but it does not bring the tire close enough to the rim and i am using a garage type compressor.

It is a customer's machine and that pulley is stuck too so I am not going to bother with that one.

I took both steering arms off the gear and fitted a clam shell puller bearly behind the clutch. I kept tightening the puller and had to hit the end with a hammer then tighten the puller again and repeat about 10 times and I got it off. Thanks for the help

I am trying to remove the power take off clutch on a cub 1042 and when i removed the center bolt the clutch came off in sections but it left the top piece which has the wires on it. I sprayed it with freeze all and tried tapping it down with a bar through the hole in the frame that the wires...

I checked that and there was no excessive play in the throttle shaft.

That tumbling is a great idea. I used to shake the tanks by hand with nuts and bolts in them and dunp it out in a tray andwipe the bolts with a rag and put them inside the tank again for more shaking.

So after you tumble it with the nuts and bolts just use soap and water to rinch it? thanks.

I thought that type had a check ball because I could blow in to the long tube but could not suck the tube so that is because the flapper valve thanks.

Also those tubes have a check ball in them.

How do you remove them.

I was referring to the piece with a hole in the side of it that is casted on the carburetor. I took the carb off again and sprayed carb cleaner in it again and blew it out with air and now it works fine thanks.

I tr ied reading the manual but my screen reader does not read it properly

On the carburetor how many holes should be in the small pickup that fits in the shallow hole on the fuel tank.

Befor I replaced the gasket to block I noticed there was 2 gaskets on there so I scrapped them and tried 1 gasket. It speeds up slightly but full throttle it dies.

I replaced the pump diaphram so I will try a new carb gasket thanks.

I am working on a briggs tiller model 130297 type 301501 code 88090207 and I replaced the tank gasket and the diaphram and it will idle fine when I adjust the needle valve but when I try to speed it up it stalls. I made sure the long tube was clear and I cleaned the hole in the side of the part...

Thank you I fixed the problem.

I am working on a Cub 1330 where the person put the arm that has the idler wheel for the belt tensioner for the mower drive belt in the wrong place. I know it is bolted to the under frame of the mower. I reattached it to the threaded hole on the mower chasis but I can't find a hole for the...

The starter has bushings on both ends nothing else supports the armature.

I am going to buy one from amazon they are around 50.00 thanks for all the sugestions.

I have to glue a magnet on the case.

I already drilled 4 holes in the end cap that has the brush holders on it thanks.

I saw the video using u shaped pieces but there is no holes to put them in to hold the brushes in.

There is no holes in the brush plate

There is no holes to put a wire in to hold the brushes back

I am replacing armature on a kohler starter 2009811-s and I am having trouble holding the 4 brushes in so I can put the armature in the end piece. How do they do that thanks.

I did not mow with that one I only repairred it. I put a different muffler on it and it is a little quieter and the customer said it was better.

thank you

I was wondering what to torque the replacement rood too thanks.

I finally got it. I used a short socket on a small swivel extension thanks.

I am replacing connecting rod on a Kohler 21 horse courage engine but can't get socket on inner rod bolt. The counter weight balancer is not allowing me to get a socket and wrench on the bolt. The engine is model sv600 spec sv600-0009 serial 371311993

your right The replacement one I bought was a nikki and it runs better.

I have a briggs 19 horse on a yard machine rider and the engine is quite loud. I have a round muffler which bolts to a short pipe which is bolted to the head. The muffler and pipe are good but as I mensioned it sounds loud when it runs. The muffler comes out of the engine on the right side and...

I had a other mechanic look at the carb and it was clean and the gaskets were good. I put it on the engine and it still surges so I am going to put a worburo carbutor on it.

It is a briggs engine model 287707 type 7224-01

I noticed that when I close the choke it runs better and at a higher speed like must be starving for fuel.

I am working on a Cub mower which has a Micki carb 698620 and I took it apart and cleaned iit but it still serges. If you hold the throttle with your finger it runs better. I have another enging with that same carburetor on it which does the same. They are a bad design carburetor that briggs used.

It is the starter with 2 studs on top. I finally got it you have to position the wire which also fits in the same slot. What a pain.

I am putting a new starter in a Kohler sv590 and the new starter has a tab that sticks up near the studs and the starter won't seat right because the tab hits the piece that the studs are supposed to go through. The old starter did not have that piece.